Burdizzo said:

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I would still put brakes at the top considering that vehicles has been sitting for ~30 years.

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I agree. That's priority #1 because I currently have no brakes at all. But if I'm going to do the work, I'd rather only do it once. So I'm trying to decide whether to convert to disc brakes or keep drums. Any idea how difficult that conversion is?

I gave AI more details about my truck and its condition. Here's the revised recommendations:

Quote:

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Your 1967-1972 Ford F-100 with a 240 CID inline-six is a diamond in the rough, but with no working gauges, rust on the exterior, no weather seals, no brakes, no headlights, and no radio, it's starting from a rougher baseline than a typical restomod candidate. Since it's aimed at being a weekend cruiser/show truck (with a possible daily driver role) in Texas, we need to prioritize safety, functionality, and weatherproofing first, then layer in comfort and show appeal. Given the Texas climate, heat and rust management are also critical. Here's a detailed, prioritized list of all the work to be done, balancing your goals with the truck's current state.

1. Brakes

• Why It's #1: No brakes = no driving. This is the ultimate safety prioritywithout stopping power, nothing else matters.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Disc Brake Conversion: Install a front disc brake kit (e.g., Wilwood or CPP) and consider rear discs for a full upgrade. Stock drums (if present) are toast.
  • Power Booster: Add a brake booster and new master cylinder for modern pedal feelessential with no current system.
  • Lines and Hardware: New stainless steel brake lines, hoses, and high-performance fluid (DOT 4).
  • Parking Brake: Restore or install a functional parking brake (often neglected on old trucks).
• Cost: $1,000-$1,500.
• Time: 1-2 weekends (DIY) or 2-3 days (shop).
• Impact: Makes the truck drivable and safe for any usecruising, showing, or daily.

2. Headlights (and Basic Electrical)

• Why It's #2: No headlights mean no night driving and a legal liability. Plus, the electrical system might be shot, affecting other fixes.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Headlights: Replace with new sealed beams or upgrade to LED units (e.g., Holley RetroBright) for better light and a classic look.
  • Wiring Check: Inspect and repair the headlight circuitlikely needs new wiring harness sections (Painless Performance kit recommended).
  • Fuses/Switches: Replace the fuse box and headlight switch if corroded or fried.
  • Tail Lights/Signals: While you're at it, ensure brake lights, turn signals, and running lights workfull lighting compliance.
• Cost: $200-$500 (LEDs bump it higher).
• Time: 1-2 days.
• Impact: Legal to drive, safe at dusk, and ready for evening cruise-ins.

3. Gauges

• Why It's #3: No working gauges leave you blind to engine healthcritical for a 240 CID you want to keep running in Texas heat.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Gauge Cluster: Install a modern aftermarket set (e.g., AutoMeter Old Tyme or Dakota Digital VHX) with speedometer, tach, oil pressure, water temp, fuel, and voltage.
  • Sensors: New sending units for oil, temp, and fuelstock ones are likely dead.
  • Wiring: Rewire the dash harness (tie into the electrical work from headlights).
  • Mounting: Custom fit into the stock dash or a fabricated panel for show appeal.
• Cost: $500-$1,200 (depends on style/tech).
• Time: 1-2 days.
• Impact: Keeps the engine alive and gives you confidence for cruising or daily use.

4. Rust Repair

• Why It's #4: Rust compromises structure and ruins show truck potential. Texas humidity accelerates it, so address this before it spreads.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Assessment: Identify all rust spotscommon areas include cab corners, floor pans, bed, fenders, and lower doors.
  • Minor Rust: Sandblast or grind small patches, treat with rust converter (e.g., POR-15), and patch with sheet metal or fiberglass.
  • Major Rust: Cut out bad sections (e.g., floor pans) and weld in replacement panels (aftermarket parts widely available).
  • Prevention: Coat repaired areas with rust inhibitor and undercoat the chassis.
  • Cosmetic Plan: Decide on patina preservation or full repaint laterpatch now, finish for show appeal down the line.
• Cost: $500-$2,000 (DIY patches vs. pro bodywork).
• Time: 2-5 days (varies by extent).
• Impact: Stops structural decay and sets up a clean canvas for cruising or showing.

5. Weather Seals

• Why It's #5: No seals around doors and windows mean dust, heat, and rain pour inunacceptable in Texas for any use case.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Door Seals: New rubber weatherstripping kits (e.g., Dennis Carpenter or LMC Truck) for doorscheck for rust under old seals first.
  • Window Seals: Replace window channel felt and rubber gasketscrank windows likely need full rebuild kits.
  • Windshield/Back Glass: If seals are gone, reseal or replace glass with new gaskets to stop leaks.
• Cost: $200-$400.
• Time: 1-2 days.
• Impact: Keeps the cab livable, dry, and ready for A/C efficiencycrucial for Texas comfort.

6. Suspension and Handling

• Why It's #6: With safety basics covered, suspension upgrades make it a cruiser/show truck worth driving.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Front: Bolt-on IFS kit (e.g., Scott's Hotrods) for smoother ride and better steering.
  • Rear: 4-link with coilovers (e.g., QA1) for control and stance.
  • Lowering: 2-3 inch drop kit with 17-inch wheels (e.g., Foose Legend)show-ready look.
• Cost: $2,000-$3,500.
• Time: 3-5 days.
• Impact: Transforms it into a smooth, eye-catching cruisercore to your vision.

7. Air Conditioning

• Why It's #7: Texas heat demands A/C for cruising, showing, or daily drivingmove it up if budget allows after safety fixes.
• Work Needed:
  
  • System: Vintage Air SureFit kitfits the cab, works with the 240 CID.
  • Compressor: Custom bracket for the inline-six (aftermarket available).
  • Cooling: Aluminum radiator and electric fans (ties into engine upgrades).
• Cost: $1,200-$1,800.
• Time: 2-3 days.
• Impact: Cool cab for Texas summersnon-negotiable for comfort.

8. Engine Reliability

• Why It's #8: The 240 runs (presumably), but needs reliability for your goalsTexas heat stresses old engines.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Cooling: Aluminum radiator and fans (paired with A/C).
  • Carb: 2-barrel Holley (300 CFM) for slight pep and efficiency.
  • Ignition: PerTronix electronic ignition for dependability.
  • Exhaust: Single header and muffler (e.g., Flowmaster)mild rumble.
• Cost: $800-$1,500.
• Time: 2-3 days.
• Impact: Keeps the inline-six reliable at 160-170 hpperfect for a cruiser.

9. Interior Comfort and Radio

• Why It's #9: Comfort and tunes polish the experiencelast since they're not essential yet.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Seats: TMI vinyl bench or bucketscool and show-worthy.
  • Sound Deadening: Dynamat for heat/noise control.
  • Radio: RetroSound Bluetooth unitretro look, modern sound.
• Cost: $800-$1,500.
• Time: 1-2 days.
• Impact: Cab becomes a cruiser's haven and show standout.

10. Transmission (Optional)

• Why It's #10: Only if daily driving demands itstock 3-speed or C4 suffices for now.
• Work Needed:
  
  • Option: Tremec T-5 (manual) or AOD (auto) for overdrive.
• Cost: $1,500-$2,500.
• Time: 2-3 days.
• Impact: Highway-ready if you go daily driver.

Priority Rationale

• Safety First (1-2): Brakes and headlights are non-negotiableget it road-legal.
• Functionality Next (3-5): Gauges, rust, and seals make it usable in Texas.
• Cruiser/Show Core (6-9): Suspension, A/C, engine, and interior deliver your vision.
• Daily Driver Bonus (10): Transmission if needed later.

Total Budget and Timeline

• Core Fixes (1-5): $2,500-$6,600, 1-3 weeks.
• Cruiser/Show Ready (6-9): Add $4,800-$8,300, 2-4 weeks.
• Full Build (1-10): $9,800-$17,400, 1.5-3 months.
• Texas Tip: Rush A/C if summer's nearswap with #4 or #5 if heat hits.

This gets your F-100 rolling safely, then builds it into a cool, reliable cruiser/show truck. Want a deeper dive into any steplike rust repair specifics or A/C install tips? Let me know!

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If i remember my Ford issues correctly, one of the steering issues with these era Fords is that the kingpins on the wheel ends of these Twin I-Beam suspensions wear out. Usually it is not a fatal issue, but they can start to wander. Again, if memory serves me, most people I knew avoided it and just lived with the loose steering because repairing it meant taking the I-Beams off and taking them to a shop to get the new kingpins pressed in. That is probably a harder job than pulling a reinstalling an engine.

cmiller00 said:

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Agree. I'd say steering after brakes depending on if staying with manual steering or not. Not sure how much slop there is but I'd think a new or refurbished steering box wouldn't be too expensive.

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Have a look at the rag joint, they tend to crap out at some point. Especially if you crank on the steering wheel a lot with the engine off and the truck not in motion.

Burdizzo said:

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If i remember my Ford issues correctly, one of the steering issues with these era Fords is that the kingpins on the wheel ends of these Twin I-Beam suspensions wear out. Usually it is not a fatal issue, but they can start to wander. Again, if memory serves me, most people I knew avoided it and just lived with the loose steering because repairing it meant taking the I-Beams off and taking them to a shop to get the new kingpins pressed in. That is probably a harder job than pulling a reinstalling an engine.

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I don't think it's quite as hard as an engine pull/re-install, but it is not easy. I'm not sure the kingpins are pressed in. I believe it goes to the machine shop because the replacements are oversized and the holes they go in have to be machined larger to accommodate that and to also correct any wear that might cause the pieces to not line up correctly.

It's not just the I beam, you also have to take the part the wheel spindle is on with the i beams. It's not just those two parts that are taken loose, the steering linkages have to be taken off, the brakes, hub and bearings.

If king pins are not replaced, the truck will "wander" as stated above. Safety factors aside, it will also wear tires very quickly. If this is going to be a show truck and trailered to shows, leaving them alone is probably OK. If it is going to be a show truck and a good budget to match, I would do the suspension swap on the front end. If it's going to be driven even modest number of miles, it should be fixed whether a swap or new kingpins.

I have a set of kingpins for my 70 model, just never put them in as I didn't drive the truck enough miles to make a difference and they didn't have too much slack - never wore the tires enough to show.

Personal opinion, if that were my grandfather's truck ( my first truck was), I would try to leave it as close to original as I could and not do all the "upgrades". Granted, some of these increase safety minimally and may reduce maintenance significantly, but part of the experience of driving these older vehicles is that you actually have to "drive" them - not just set the cruise and let it drive itself. Putting all the new style parts on does away with that. It also does away with a lot of the regular maintenance you had to do on these vehicles to keep them running properly. That regular maintenance is a great way to teach younger people how all that stuff works. The new stuff does the same job, just not as easy to see how it gets the job done. My 70 model is staying as original as I can keep it mainly so I can drive a 70 model truck, not a 70 model body on a1990-2000s model carriage/drivetrain.

I suppose it is a matter of preference. With an engine swap, I spend a good portion on my time leaning over the fender or the radiator while my fat belly rests on it. With suspension work I spend most of my time rolling around on a dirty shop floor while 50 years of dirt falls in my face as I swing a BFH to knock out the radius arms and pivot pins. And don't t forget to compress those coil springs, or they will hurt someone. Then you have to call your buddy to help you load all that stuff in the back of a truck and haul it somewhere. And then when you get it back from the shop you get to do it all in reverse order.



Ah, memories.

Not much changed in 30 years. I need to change the rag joint in my 96 Bronco. Probably going with a new steering column, Saginaw pump and new steering box. I'm more familiar with the 60s GM than Ford. That's what I drive in high school in the 90s. Got a steering box from a junkyard. Still had a lot of play but less than the one on it after 30 years as a farm truck.

You get used to it after a bit but for a weekend driver takes a lot of enjoyment out if you are fighting drifting in and out of your lane.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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I would still put brakes at the top considering that vehicles has been sitting for ~30 years.

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I agree. That's priority #1 because I currently have no brakes at all. But if I'm going to do the work, I'd rather only do it once. So I'm trying to decide whether to convert to disc brakes or keep drums. Any idea how difficult that conversion is?

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I have never done a conversion, but my understanding is that is mostly a remove and replace type deal. I would not expect to need any special tools of machining. If you are looking at kits, you may see if you can get the instructions before you buy.

Also, I love getting refrigerator magnet from Rock Auto. I got this one today, and it reminded me of your truck

Sky View Blue is the best color, but I'm a little biased

The Fife said:

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Sky View Blue is the best color, but I'm a little biased

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My Grandads truck was a combination of that color blue and white......the cab top was white as was below the body side mouldings

jaborch99 said:

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Finally got some gauges installed. This is after 20 minutes idling.

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What does the oil pressure gauge read when you up the rpms from idle? If it goes up does it jump up immediately or take it's time to build up ? Also is your fan clutched or just a fan bolted to the water pump? It appears to be running a little hot at 220 degrees or so. Run the rpm's up to say 1500 and hold it steady to see if the water temp gradually goes down. What temp thermostat do you have in it?

Yeah, she's a little hot. Based on a previous picture of the heater hose, it could probably stand a good flush of the cooling system. The oil pressure is a little low, but I've seen worse. Loos like it is charging. Did you replace the alternator?

Rattler12 said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Finally got some gauges installed. This is after 20 minutes idling.

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What does the oil pressure gauge read when you up the rpms from idle? If it goes up does it jump up immediately or take it's time to build up ? Also is your fan clutched or just a fan bolted to the water pump? It appears to be running a little hot at 220 degrees or so. Run the rpm's up to say 1500 and hold it steady to see if the water temp gradually goes down. What temp thermostat do you have in it?

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Good questions. Unfortunately, I didn't check that. I took the belt off to try to remove the alternator, but one bolt won't budge, so I couldn't get it off. I'll check these things next time I start it up. The thermostat is whatever one O'Reilly's gave me that was supposed to be for this truck. I have no idea what temp it was.

Burdizzo said:

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Yeah, she's a little hot. Based on a previous picture of the heater hose, it could probably stand a good flush of the cooling system. The oil pressure is a little low, but I've seen worse. Loos like it is charging. Did you replace the alternator?

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Nope. I started to remove the old one today, but there's one bolt that won't budge. Even snapped one extension on my ratchet. So its still on there for now.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Yeah, she's a little hot. Based on a previous picture of the heater hose, it could probably stand a good flush of the cooling system. The oil pressure is a little low, but I've seen worse. Loos like it is charging. Did you replace the alternator?

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Nope. I started to remove the old one today, but there's one bolt that won't budge. Even snapped one extension on my ratchet. So its still on there for now.

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If your gauge is reading that, I would leave the alternator on there for now. Not sure why your digital voltmeter was giving you the readings it did.

Rattler12 said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Finally got some gauges installed. This is after 20 minutes idling.

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What does the oil pressure gauge read when you up the rpms from idle? If it goes up does it jump up immediately or take it's time to build up ? Also is your fan clutched or just a fan bolted to the water pump? It appears to be running a little hot at 220 degrees or so. Run the rpm's up to say 1500 and hold it steady to see if the water temp gradually goes down. What temp thermostat do you have in it?

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Started it up today and gave it some gas while watching the oil pressure. Only went up slightly, and didn't jump. I don't have a tacometer, so I don't know what the RMPs were. I didn't have it going long enough to get the temp up.

Anyone know what this button is? It is attached to the brake pedal arm. When the brake is not pressed, the button pushes against the metal plate. I'm assuming that this is how the brake lights work, but that's just a guess.

I think you're right that it's the brake light (or stoplight) switch.

Yep, brake lights

Got a new master cylinder and will be installing it soon. Trying to decide whether to target the brakes themselves or the brake lines first. What are the odds that my brake lines are still good? Seems pretty complicated when the whole truck hasn't been disassembled.

Steel brake lines are probably OK but no guarantees. The rubber flexible lines and wheel cylinders are most likely shot. The good news is that those are the cheapest and easiest parts to replace, so I would plan on doing those after the master cylinder.

If the truck was sitting outside near the coast just replace the steel lines as well as rubber.

will.mcg said:

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If the truck was sitting outside near the coast just replace the steel lines as well as rubber.

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It has lived its whole life in Texarkana and Buda, Texas

Things have slowed down a bit due to the start of club basketball for my daughter, but I have done a few things. I was able to replace the hard brake lines from the master cylinder to the prop valve. Not sure if there are leaks beyond that, but I'm going to hope for the best and deal with it later if the leaks show up.

So now my task is replacing the brakes. This thing has drums on all wheels and I can't get the drums to budge no matter what I do. I've watched some Youtube videos and tried everything they suggested, but they won't even wiggle. I've been pounding on it with a hammer, soaking it with PB Blaster, pounding with a hammer some more, adjusting it through the hole in the rear, pounding on it with a hammer some more, and even clipped off the springs and unbolted the cylinder from the rear. Nothing.

Any suggestions?

Heat it up with a little propane torch? We used that trick to un-thread 1967 outdoor faucets so they could be replaced.

dubi said:

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Heat it up with a little propane torch? We used that trick to un-thread 1967 outdoor faucets so they could be replaced.

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Forgot tot list that one. I also heated it up with a propane torch. No luck.

Also on the list of things to check, make sure the parking brake isn't engaged or stuck.

https://otctools.com/products/brake-drum-and-rotor-puller

I bought one of these for my 67 C10, 75 & 77 K5 Blazers and it works really well.