We moved into a new house a couple of months ago. The previous homeowner had the home theater set up and it conveyed with the house. I'm finally getting around to trying to use the home theater. I can tell that they were streaming using some of this equipment, maybe the Blu-Ray player? We use Roku almost exclusively for our streaming. I would like to get my Roku set up to work in conjunction with this equipment, but I'm not having any luck.

I was able to follow the Blu-Ray HDMI cable to figure out where the video input should go. It is plugged into the back of the Marantz box.

I plugged the HDMI cable from the Roku into the back of the Marantz box. We select the correct HDMI input using the remote and the projector shows HDMI 1 and "no input". It's not recognizing the Roku. I've tried several of the ports. None of them seem to work. We get the audio but not the video.

Ha ha. After type of ALL of this I found out my Roku has to have Dolby Vision in order for it to work with the AV receiver. Just ordered one. Here's to hoping it works.




JVC D-ILA Procision projector


Sony Blu-Ray Disc/DVD Player BDP-S780


Marantz AV Surround Receiver SR5010 - this seems like WAY WAY WAY more than we need!


Panamax MR5100 - I have no idea what this piece of equipment does. Anyone know what this is and why it's part of our AV setup for the home theater? **EDIT** Oh, Google search shows it's some fancy surge protector?

Go to the Menu on the Marantz, select Video, check to make sure "Enhanced" is selected for the Roku input

Hey, so now I have a follow-up question. The HDMI ports on the Marantz tuner seem to only work for audio sound. I only have a BluRay and Roku. Neither gets video. I tried all of the other HDMI ports. Same thing. I unplugged it. Still the same problem.

IT guy that came in told me these things are only good for about 7 years and then the ports start doing this.

REALLY?

If that's the case, I need a new one of these. I just paid 2,500 for one for our home audio, which is separate from this. I really don't want to shell out another 2,500.

On the back of the Marantz, you should be using the HDMI output labeled Monitor 2. The projector doesn't support ARC (Monitor 1) as it doesn't have any audio content to return to the AV receiver.

If the above makes no difference, have you tried connecting to HDMI 2 at the projector? If so, have you tried replacing the HDMI cable? It's not likely the issue but it's possible and cables are pretty cheap.

If no joy still, try connecting the Roku or Blu-Ray direct to the projector to see if you get video.

If the IT guy is not an A/V technician, I would take his input with a grain of salt at best. I've never heard of HDMI ports having a shorter lifespan than the equipment they are installed in. If you were constantly unplugging and plugging it back in there would be some associated mechanical wear and tear. Now if there was a spike in the 120VAC , that could be an issue but if everything is plugged into that fancy surge protector that shouldn't be the case.

This setup previously worked and over time it seems that the HDMI ports have been failing one by one so I don't think it's anything at the projector.

combat wombat said:

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This setup previously worked and over time it seems that the HDMI ports have been failing one by one so I don't think it's anything at the projector.

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I've had the same issue with my Denon AVRs with the failure of the HDMI ports one by one. Usually, I can still pass through 1080p or 720p video, but nothing 4K will pass through. My HDMI board failures have been associated with lightning strikes, so unplugging AV equipment during storms is a good policy.

We have a whole house surge protector as well as the surge protector for the AV system. I don't think it was lightning, but I suppose it's possible.

combat wombat said:

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This setup previously worked and over time it seems that the HDMI ports have been failing one by one so I don't think it's anything at the projector.

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Out of curiosity, how did you confirm HDMI ports as failed? Have you gone straight to the projector, bypassing the receiver, etc? Not to be critical but in my experience, "I don't think it's (whatever)" is not the best troubleshooting approach. Just my $.02

Col. Steve Austin said:

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combat wombat said:

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This setup previously worked and over time it seems that the HDMI ports have been failing one by one so I don't think it's anything at the projector.

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Out of curiosity, how did you confirm HDMI ports as failed? Have you gone straight to the projector, bypassing the receiver, etc? Not to be critical but in my experience, "I don't think it's (whatever)" is not the best troubleshooting approach. Just my $.02

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I have bypassed the receiver and plugged directly into to the projector. Projector is fine.

So with every single HDMI port nonfunctional, it seems like I have no option but to replace the receiver. How is it possible that a piece of equipment that costs over $2500 is disposable? We can't fix the HDMI ports? The waste is obscene

Evidently, the previous owner of my home went really high-end with his speakers and we have these great high-powered speakers. When the AV tech were hooking up our whole home speaker system to our receiver, they help me figure out how to work the theater room. They were really impressed with the speakers. But that means that when I replace my receiver, I'm going have to get a more expensive receiver because of the speakers. Does this sound right? This is what the AV tech is telling us.

Most receivers (even high end ones) only have marginally better amp sections than cheap receivers. Sometimes its just a few extra watts, sometimes a beefier power supply, etc. Better A/D conversion too the farther up you go in their lines.

What speakers and how many? Subwoofer(s)?

How many watts you might need is highly variable and influenced by room size and speaker efficiency - NOT how nice they sound.

I like the class D Hypex/Purifi amps but I run separates in a 7.2.4 setup.

Okay, so I don't really know what I have. I'll post a picture of the front of the room. We also have in wall speakers. One on each side of the room and two in the back of the room.

This is what's up at the front.


This is the square speaker on the left side.


This is the rectangular speaker in the middle.


This is the tall speaker; there are two of these.


This is the other square speaker. I'm guessing this and the other square speaker are subwoofers. He said we had two subwoofers.


And we have four of these speakers in the walls.


He is planning on installing a Denon X6800h. It's a $3500 receiver. I'm not sure I want to spend that much. But I don't know much about receivers and this may be par for the course for what I need.

I will say that that's the retail price of that receiver when I search online and that's the price he's charging me for the receiver and installation.

I do not know anything about the quality (B&W is a good brand, so not doubting it). But those speakers do not require any fancy amp.

Edit: Those are indeed fancy towers - looks like a pair was $4k new in 2014.

The issue that some "fancy" speakers have is impedance. This is basically the resistance that the circuit displays to the amp, and it changes across frequencies (due to lots of factors like driver characteristics, box design, crossover design). The concern is that low impedance is hard on amps.

The speakers you posted have an impedance of 8 ohms. That is consumer standard and fairly high (low impedance speakers are usually rated at 4 ohms, but as noted above it's not exact).

I do not know why you would need a receiver that expensive for this setup. I put together a theater room last year with more demanding speakers and used a receiver that was 1/3 to 1/2 that price.

I would ask your techs specifically what your system requires that an X1700H (entry level option) or X3800H (mid-level, this is what I have) could not do.

Have you taken your Marantz somewhere to get it checked out? They might be able to replace the HDMI board.

I had this done years ago on an Onkyo. The board went out again a few years later.

Monitor the heat inside of that cabinet (I actually have the same one). Heat and electronics don't mix.

THANKS!! I was told not repairable; the motivations of the person who told me this were obviously suspect.

I did a Google search and found a place that can probably repair this for me. Give me a call and I plan on taking it in we'll see. Maybe I don't have to $500 for a repair.

Unfortunately, no. It was under warranty, so I took it to an authorized service place in Spring Branch.

The question is whether anybody still supplies the hdmi board for that model.

Thanks.

Okay… he said it's the watts. We need a high wattage receiver. We could go with a more mid-range receiver but the speakers may end up "overpowering" the receiver. He's basically saying the speakers could end up frying the receiver because of the watts.

I am sure I didn't completely grasp everything he said. The two towers show 300w and the center speaker shows 200w. When he and I talked about it that was even higher than he remembered them being.

Those are maximum wattages. The reason they list them is that, as long as your amp does not provide more than that, the speakers will be safe (if you put more through the driver could physically break - it would move the magnet farther from the neutral position than the surround allows).

It will not harm your receiver to drive speakers with a higher wattage rating.

The ONLY concern that might come up is sensitivity. Sensitivity is how loud the speaker gets at a given wattage (some speakers have stiffer drivers, and it takes more power to move them at the same frequency). It is conceivable that if the speakers are low sensitivity you would need to push more power from the receiver to get your intended volume. I suppose that could eventually reduce the lifespan of the receiver? But honestly at $600 vs. $3,500 who cares? Plus technology may change and you'd want a newer receiver anyway.

I see these listed as 90db/W sensitivity, which...as I wrack my memory seems normal? I don't think you would have any issue driving those things with a standard consumer receiver.

Others should chime in if they think I'm leading you astray, but everything I know about speakers suggests this just isn't an issue.

FtWorthHorn said:

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Those are maximum wattages. The reason to put them there is that, as long as your amp does not provide more than that, the speakers will be safe (if you put more through the driver could physically break - it would move the magnet farther from the neutral position than the surround allows).

It will not harm your receiver to drive speakers with a higher wattage rating.

The ONLY concern that might come up is sensitivity. Sensitivity is how loud the speaker gets at a given wattage (some speakers have stiffer drivers, and it takes more power to move them at the same frequency). It is conceivable that if the speakers are low sensitivity you would need to push more power from the receiver to get your intended volume. I suppose that could eventually reduce the lifespan of the receiver? But honestly at $600 vs. $3,500 who cares? Plus technology may change and you'd want a newer receiver anyway.

I see these listed as 90db/W sensitivity, which...as I wrack my memory seems normal? I don't think you would have any issue driving those things with a standard consumer receiver.

Others should chime in if they think I'm leading you astray, but everything I know about speakers suggests this just isn't an issue.

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This is it. Turn it up too much and you could get clipping (where the receiver doesn't have enough power to do what you are asking of it and "clips" the signal). Not good for the speakers (it could blow out the tweeters).

Most of the time you will be sending a small fraction of the rated power to the speakers. Play it loud and you could have a problem. You would hear this first as distortion of the sound. In a home theater, you could have it at a decent listening volume for dialog and then have an action scene push the limit.

He did say it was a power thing and he mention shortening the life of the receiver. My words, not his.

combat wombat said:

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THANKS!! I was told not repairable; the motivations of the person who told me this were obviously suspect.

I did a Google search and found a place that can probably repair this for me. Give me a call and I plan on taking it in we'll see. Maybe I don't have to $500 for a repair.

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Are you in the Houston area? If so give these folks a call:

https://bammeltv.com/

They repaired a few items for me back in the day (TV, VCR, A/V Receiver). They are still in business and also specialize in Home Theater and Media Rooms. Even if you aren't in the area, it would be worth giving them a call regarding the possibility of HDMI port repairs.

That is who I found.

I would find a new A/V tech. That intel is absolutely suspect. I understand clipping and everything but I've been doing this 25 years and have yet to see a high end speaker blown out because of a cheap amp and I've seen some crazy setups. An old Asian woman bought a house in katy and needed help. I was a nearby neighbor. The previous owner had left her with a $5k home theater setup and she was using a $150 sony amp to work it. Shockingly it sounded great and worked perfectly. The remote however needed new AA batteries.

Look at the AVR-X3800

I did a media room last year and went with this one and will allow multiple subs. The 6800 seems like a huge overkill.

Here is an openbox one at Best Buy in Copperfield for $1,250

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/denon-avr-x3800h-105w-x-9-9-4-ch-with-heos-and-dolby-atmos-8k-ultra-hd-hdr-compatible-av-home-theater-receiver-with-alexa-black/6518170/openbox?condition=fair