Gunny456 said:

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If you're going to keep firearms with wood furniture on them …keep the temp around 70+ degrees and humidity between 35%-50%. I keep mine at 40-45. Get a good hygrometer to monitor that.
Try to minimize electrical circuits as much as possible to help prevent possibility of fires.
You don't want to dry your wood out too much.
Your plans sound nice.

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Gunny456 said:

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As I said in my original post, humidity should be in the 40% -45% range. However constant temperatures are equally important to minimize contraction and expansion
of wood and metal parts….with the ideal being in the 70-74 degree range…..erring to the cooler side.

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schmellba99 said:

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SGrem said:

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Raise temperatures to control humidity not cooler.

The psychrometric table is the most complicated table ever discovered by man but as you raise temperatures you lower humidity. That's why the golden bar and other similar safe heater bars exist.

As the air gets cooler the humidity sticks to everything.... thats why you will see condensation on your windows after the AC been cranking all night. Warm the temps and the humidity stays in the air and not on gun barrels.

Turn on the AC from 6am to noon or so then let the space warm up. This cycle will scrub the humidity from the air then warm up to suck that humidity back into the air again....waiting for the next cycle.

You all will remember "slime in the ice machine"....you never hear about slime in the heater....

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No.

The goldenrod devices work because they raise temperature slightly in a very small area (safe) thus increasing the air pressure inside the safe and preventing air form forming a humid environment inside the small area. I suppose you could do the same thing inside a house or a room, but it would be miserably hot inside the room to achieve the same results.

You said you live in Alvin - you should know that simply raising the temp doesn't mean the humidity goes away. Try turning off the AC in your house and see what happens. You see condensation on the windows because you have a thermal barrier of cold and dry on the inside and warm and wet on the outside of the window. The cold dry barrier pulls moisture out of the air when the hot wet air hits the barrier.

Air conditioners remove humidity, they don't add to it. They remove humidity by cooling the air (especially in high humidity environments) which forces the water vapor to condense on the coils (where the heat transfer takes place) - which is why you have drain pans on air conditioning units. It's also why swamp coolers are ineffective in our neck of the woods but work extremely well in low humidity desert environments like Phoenix. That's why you add humidifiers in conditioned rooms that you need to keep a higher humidity in - because air conditioning dries the air out.

You don't hear about slime in the heater because - wait for it - the heater element heats up and cooks off anything on the element itself. But you absolutely do get mold/etc. in ducts where warm air flows if the air is too wet. Unless you are getting to really stupid high temps inside a structure, a heating element can only alter the ambient humidity a small amount. You get slime in the ice machine because even in an ice machine you don't have 100% removal of heat when water freezes, so you have a very damp environment that, even though it is cold, is conducive to slime growth over time if not cleaned out or dried out periodically.

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AgLA06 said:

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What's the thought process on doing full concrete walls, but not ceiling (if I understand your attic space comment correctly)?

Seems that's a lot of money to still have fire threat (cave in from above) or someone being able to access from above. How much more for a concrete pan ceiling above to make it a true storm shelter / safe room?

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shalackin said:

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AgLA06 said:

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What's the thought process on doing full concrete walls, but not ceiling (if I understand your attic space comment correctly)?

Seems that's a lot of money to still have fire threat (cave in from above) or someone being able to access from above. How much more for a concrete pan ceiling above to make it a true storm shelter / safe room?

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ceiling is 8" thick concrete. Attic space is above that.

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