Have a couple of weird bugs going on with my truck

First is the window controls no longer work. Checked continuity from the driver side controls to the door plug and everything was showing up OK. The wire coloring is not straight forward and haven't been able to find a pinout that matches my truck to know what the supply voltage wire should be. I replaced the 30amp breaker as well as the drivers door module. So if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

Second and I'm not sure if it's related or not is the dash compass is no longer working after trying to start the vehicle with really low batteries. Interesting one here is the compass in the radio unit still is showing up fine. I would have thought hey would have used the same sensor.

Last is in the picture below where do these 2 vacuum lines go? And what is the best way to repair /replace them. They are super brittle and broke when I bumped them with the fuse box cover.

I can't see the picture but probably under the battery tray. Need to get some new lines. Maybe new boots(connectors as well). Have you charged or replaced your batteries? If you charged them disconnect them for 15 minutes or so & see if the electronic stuff starts working.

New batteries after they were super dead and wouldn't take a charge so they are in decent shape. Truck runs and starts fine now, there's some parasitic drain that is causing issues I have tracked down either. May be the aftermarket unit plugged into the obd2 port.

Tried the other one I had, luckily that one didn't get flagged.

Ones is to some hvac item, not sure what or if it's needed. The other is 4x4 possibly.

OE_Ag11 said:

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Have a couple of weird bugs going on with my truck

First is the window controls no longer work. Checked continuity from the driver side controls to the door plug and everything was showing up OK. The wire coloring is not straight forward and haven't been able to find a pinout that matches my truck to know what the supply voltage wire should be. I replaced the 30amp breaker as well as the drivers door module. So if anyone has any ideas that would be great.

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This is for one touch up



No one touch

The wiring in the door jambs is ok?

1agswitchin4lanes said:

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The wiring in the door jambs is ok?

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I think so. Pulled the connector housing open to identify the wires and everything seemed to show continuity when checking pin of the door side connector to pin of the connector into the switch assembly and got a beep. But that's also with that bundle twisted around.

I'm headed home so can check for power soon and some of the other checks.

Is it fuse 32 or the relay in the 32 spot under the hood that would control the delayed accessory? Unless I'm looking wrong it doesn't look like there is a relay or fuse in those spots. I replaced the circuit breaker in the interior fuse panel previously so wouldn't think it would be that.

I am not getting any voltage on the blue wire. The ground is good, checked it VS one of the cigarettes lighters. Beeped nicely for the continuity.

If I go from the blue wire (should be +12 if I'm reading the figures right to the center +12v of the cigarette lighter I'm getting - 14v and from the blue wire to the outside of the cigarettes lighter I'm getting 1400ohm. Between the blue wire and the black with white stripe I'm getting the same 1400ohm but 0v.

Power is not making it to the 30a window circuit breaker. I'm getting the same v and ohm readings over there

OE_Ag11 said:

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Power is not making it to the 30a window circuit breaker. I'm getting the same v and ohm readings over there

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Does that mean my bcm is starting to fail? Would also be where the compass data would go through right so with it no longer working then may just be starting to be on the way out. Not sure if there are any other testing methods that I can use or troubleshoot to try to fix it.

Thanks so much for sending these over.

I did come across this site, incase anyone else needs it in the future, it does have the same diagrams and test information.
https://charm.li/Ford/2012/F%20350%204WD%20Super%20Duty%20V8-6.7L%20DSL%20Turbo/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Windows%20and%20Glass/Sensors%20and%20Switches%20-%20Windows%20and%20Glass/Power%20Window%20Switch/Testing%20and%20Inspection/Master%20Window%20Control%20Switch%20-%20Crew%20Cab/

Got a USB OBD2 connector and downloaded FOREscan. below is the DTC codes that showed up. I had it run tests on the APIM, HVAC BdyCM, and IPC modules and it came back no faults.

Any ideas where I need to go next to diagnose?



===TCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Transmission Control Module

===END TCM DTC None===

===PCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found
A
Module: Powertrain Control Module

===END PCM DTC None===

===OBDII DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: On Board Diagnostic II

===END OBDII DTC None===

===APIM DTC U3000:04-28===
Code: U3000 - Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom (:04):
- System Internal Failures

Status (-28):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module

===END APIM DTC U3000:04-28===

===TCCM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Transfer Case Control Module

===END TCCM DTC None===

===ABS DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Antilock braking system

===END ABS DTC None===

===RCM DTC B0091:93-08===
Code: B0091 - Left Side Restraints Sensor 1

Additional Fault Symptom (:93):
- No Operation

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Restraint Control Module

===END RCM DTC B0091:93-08===

===PAM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Parking Aid Module

===END PAM DTC None===

===BdyCM DTC B10F1:14-08===
Code: B10F1 - Key In Switch

Additional Fault Symptom (:14):
- Circuit Short To Ground Or Open

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Body Control Module

===END BdyCM DTC B10F1:14-08===

===SCCM DTC U2100:00-0A===
Code: U2100 - Initial Configuration Not Complete

Status (-0A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Steering Column Control Module

===END SCCM DTC U2100:00-0A===

===IPC DTC U0462:82-0A===
Code: U0462 - Invalid Data Received From Compass Module

Additional Fault Symptom (:82):
- Alive/Sequence Counter Incorrect/Not Updated

Status (-0A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Instrument Panel Control Module

===END IPC DTC U0462:82-0A===

===TBC DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Trailer Brake Control Module

===END TBC DTC None===

===TPM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Tire Pressure Monitor

===END TPM DTC None===

===HVAC DTC B1082:00-08===
Code: B1082 - Right Temperature Damper Motor

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B1082:00-08===

===HVAC DTC B1086:00-08===
Code: B1086 - Air Distribution Damper Motor

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B1086:00-08===

===HVAC DTC B11E5:15-0A===
Code: B11E5 - Left HVAC Damper Position Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom (:15):
- Circuit Short To Battery Or Open

Status (-0A):
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B11E5:15-0A===

===HVAC DTC B11E6:15-08===
Code: B11E6 - Right HVAC Damper Position Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom (:15):
- Circuit Short To Battery Or Open

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B11E6:15-08===

===HVAC DTC B11E7:15-08===
Code: B11E7 - Air Distribution Damper Position Sensor

Additional Fault Symptom (:15):
- Circuit Short To Battery Or Open

Status (-08):
- Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning

===END HVAC DTC B11E7:15-08===

===ACM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Audio Control Module

===END ACM DTC None===

===DCSM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Driver/Dual Climate-Control Seat Module

===END DCSM DTC None===

===DSM DTC None===
Successful DTC reading, no error codes found

Module: Driver's Seat Module

===END DSM DTC None===

1ags will be able to give you a better idea. I'm going off what's available in Alldata.

Do you have any other functions on the radio not working? That APIM error is saying a function was disabled.

The BCM code is related to the key in ignition dinger.

The SCCM code indicates that module needs to be reinitialized. You can get the as-built data from Ford to do that.

The IPC/cluster code is at least part of your compass issue. That U code is a communications issue. The compass is in the rearview mirror. I can provide the pinpoint tests for that if you want to get into it more.

I don't think any of the other codes would contribute to your issues.

Alldata doesn't seem to have pinpoint tests for the windows, but I'm happy to provide any other diagrams you need. If I can get my ProDemand working, I'll see if Mitchell has the pinpoint tests.

The pinpoint tests would be nice.

I haven't noticed anything with the radio that isn't working correctly. Same with the hvac, all seems to be working correctly.

I haven't notice the key dinging when it's not supposed to either.

It's going to be a week now before I can do the diagnostics. But will want to go through everything that I can to pinpoint what is wrong.

The battery on the truck has been draining a lot quicker than it has as well which is also a symptom of a bcm going bad. Not sure how much trouble I would get in trying to swap and program it myself with forescan, or if it is possible.

OE_Ag11 said:

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The pinpoint tests would be nice.

I haven't noticed anything with the radio that isn't working correctly. Same with the hvac, all seems to be working correctly.

I haven't notice the key dinging when it's not supposed to either.

It's going to be a week now before I can do the diagnostics. But will want to go through everything that I can to pinpoint what is wrong.

The battery on the truck has been draining a lot quicker than it has as well which is also a symptom of a bcm going bad. Not sure how much trouble I would get in trying to swap and program it myself with forescan, or if it is possible.

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I suspect you're going to need IDS and a j-box to program a replacement BCM. You can pay Ford for access to the factory diagnostic software and service info. It's $26 for 3 days of access. Might give you a start on diagnosing or downloading troubleshooting steps.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/Home/Index

Maybe 1ags knows, but you might be able to reset the BCM with forscan and the as-built data from Ford. That should also clear up the SCCM code. Get the as-built data and re-enter it into the SCCM

I'll pull the pinpoint tests I can find from Alldata tonight or in the morning for you

Hopefully 1ags has some other ideas as well. With the hvac working as it should and some of these other errors I'm wondering if the bcm has an internal short to ground that is causing some errors or if there's some spot in the harness to check. The on demand tests didn't return any errors which was also interesting, I was expecting soemthing with the ground fault. I haven't tried resetting any codes yet either to see what all comes back after a reset and some time.

Sounds good. The expanded forescan license may do it.

Did call a dealership and it's only 440 bucks for the labor to pull the old bcm and put in the new and reprogram as needed which isn't horrible.

So I'm not having any of the errant digging, all working correctly. And even thought the SCCM is reporting it's not initializing the cruise control and all radio functions work correctly.

Is there anything in the troubleshooting looking for the ground fault for the BCM. My guess is all the modules route and talk through it so somewhere in that module or the main backbone is the ground fault.

Still weird the breaker that powers the windows has 0v on it. Either pin that it plugs into. So the Bcm is either deciding not to send power or has a fault in it so it will not provided power to the windows.

Turns out it was the APIM that fried itself and caused the cascading problems.


Now. Just the vaccum issues to trace and figure out.

Is there any reason to use the Ford vaccum harness or just replace the lines with standard ones.

Use standard hard vacuum line and then standard rubber vacuum line to make couplers. Stick it back together. Vacuum is either part of the HVAC or the 4wd system. Either way, it's broken and leaking.

They aren't usually brittle everywhere. Usually exposed places, elbows, and fittings. When I have a broken line, I keep snapping it until it stops snapping and replace from that point. That line is possibly part of a vacuum assembly, and if it's even available, it is likely pricy and not easy to replace if you have the snake it around.

Do you just do an in-ine boot to extend the hose or try to trace it the whole way and replace from end to end?

Personally, I keep breaking the line until I get past the brittle part and then basically make a coupler out of a rubber vacuum line so I can connect a new piece of hard tube or leave rubber vacuum line. Just kind of whatever it takes. Mine break at bends and elbows. If it's a vacuum assembly and I can get it, then I might replace it but generally on my diesel or older gassers they aren't easy to replace so I just fix the part that's broken. I only fix what's broken. I don't replace end to end. Even on some runs, if it's brittle and converted and protected, it may last forever.

Is there any reason to use the hard vaccum line over just the silicone soft ones? And thank you for all the tips

OE_Ag11 said:

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Is there any reason to use the hard vaccum line over just the silicone soft ones? And thank you for all the tips

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Not unless there is a reason to, like maybe there is a fastener attached to it that clips in a frame hole and changing it would create a new problem for me to solve.

Whenever I fix or replace vacuum lines, I keep my old ones if there is a usable amount of stuff on them for exactly purposes like this. On Ford's there are sometimes specialty 'connectors' that are rubber, like a triple junction or something, so for something like that, I would remove teh hard line out of that connector and try to replace it with a new hard line that will plug right in. Like I said, I just kind of mix and match....whatever it takes to make it work and keep the factory connectors. If your break is in the middle of a run, it doesn't matter much in my opinion.

I have even used waterproof electrical shrink wrap to make repairs to clean breaks. I just push them back together and heat shrink it. It is redneck as hell, but if it's a tight spot, then it is what it is.