My 2017 SR5 Toyota 4Runner has run through two new Duralast batteries in the last 11 months. Something is sucking down the battery in my car too quickly and I don't know what it is. Could be the alternator, but my alternator passed an AutoZone diagnostic last night. As did the Starter. Any ideas? I have no new aftermarket products installed on the vehicle which could be a random issue.
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4Runner Problems-- Please help
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Last: 8 mo ago by Whitetail
Could be a parasitic drain somewhere. If you have a multimeter, there are youtube videos out there that tell you how to hook it up to the battery, see the drain, then just start pulling fuses until the drain goes away. Just have to hope that the drain is not in a critical system.
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that I use as a commuter car. I had the same issue, batteries kept dying. I replaced alternator and starter and still had the same problem. I was finally able to isolate the drain to the dome light circuit. Unfortunately, the dome light is on the same circuit as the keyless entry, so now I have to actually use the key to unlock my door like a caveman.
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that I use as a commuter car. I had the same issue, batteries kept dying. I replaced alternator and starter and still had the same problem. I was finally able to isolate the drain to the dome light circuit. Unfortunately, the dome light is on the same circuit as the keyless entry, so now I have to actually use the key to unlock my door like a caveman.
Old School Brother said:
Could be a parasitic drain somewhere. If you have a multimeter, there are youtube videos out there that tell you how to hook it up to the battery, see the drain, then just start pulling fuses until the drain goes away. Just have to hope that the drain is not in a critical system.
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that I use as a commuter car. I had the same issue, batteries kept dying. I replaced alternator and starter and still had the same problem. I was finally able to isolate the drain to the dome light circuit. Unfortunately, the dome light is on the same circuit as the keyless entry, so now I have to actually use the key to unlock my door like a caveman
The horror!
LOL....you'd be surprised, or maybe not, at the number of people who stare at me like I'm an alien when I walk up to my car and stick the key in the lock.Aggie Dad 26 said:Old School Brother said:
Could be a parasitic drain somewhere. If you have a multimeter, there are youtube videos out there that tell you how to hook it up to the battery, see the drain, then just start pulling fuses until the drain goes away. Just have to hope that the drain is not in a critical system.
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla that I use as a commuter car. I had the same issue, batteries kept dying. I replaced alternator and starter and still had the same problem. I was finally able to isolate the drain to the dome light circuit. Unfortunately, the dome light is on the same circuit as the keyless entry, so now I have to actually use the key to unlock my door like a caveman
The horror!
frostyelko said:
My 2017 SR5 Toyota 4Runner has run through two new Duralast batteries in the last 11 months. Something is sucking down the battery in my car too quickly and I don't know what it is. Could be the alternator, but my alternator passed an AutoZone diagnostic last night. As did the Starter. Any ideas? I have no new aftermarket products installed on the vehicle which could be a random issue.
Check for interior lights staying on. Especially the rear hatch lights. I'm not 100% positive but I think those will stay on if left in right position. My kid played around with those one night at they stayed on all night…
Other interior lights are on a timer but that too could be malfunctioning.
do you have an aftermarket alarm, lowjack or "silencer" ignition? Also check for GPS tracker attached to OBD port.
What dealer did you buy the 4runner from?
What dealer did you buy the 4runner from?
I would check the wires going to the starter and alternator. Feel for any nicks in the insulation or soft spots where the wire could be corroded. Also check the wire connections to make sure they are tight. Could be a loose connection that occasionally fails to charge and is causing system to drain the battery. I also agree with the poster above about checking the overhead and map light switches to make sure they are not set to leave the lights on when you get out of the car.
Now imagine that, but with a different key than what fits in the ignition!
Years ago my T4R kept having electrical issues where the speedometer would randomly stop working, radio would be on in the am with the car not running, etc. Battery kept dying. I finally had to disconnect the battery if away from it for a day or so.
Several shops couldn't find it, but it turned out to be a leaking back/side seal that was letting water into wiring in the cargo area. The cargo mat was covering it up (and the smell wasn't noticeable b/c I had put that thing thru heck anyway).
Several shops couldn't find it, but it turned out to be a leaking back/side seal that was letting water into wiring in the cargo area. The cargo mat was covering it up (and the smell wasn't noticeable b/c I had put that thing thru heck anyway).
Consistency: It's only a virtue if you're not a screw-up.
Yup, had one of those too.....1985 Chevy SWB my freshman year at TAMU.TxSquarebody said:
Now imagine that, but with a different key than what fits in the ignition!
I first read this as TR4 and thought to myself, it's a British car, of course it has electrical problems.Sweep4-2 said:
Years ago my T4R kept having electrical issues where the speedometer would randomly stop working, radio would be on in the am with the car not running, etc. Battery kept dying. I finally had to disconnect the battery if away from it for a day or so.
Several shops couldn't find it, but it turned out to be a leaking back/side seal that was letting water into wiring in the cargo area. The cargo mat was covering it up (and the smell wasn't noticeable b/c I had put that thing thru heck anyway).
TxSquarebody said:
Now imagine that, but with a different key than what fits in the ignition!
What idiot thought it necessary for two different car keys?
Start with the alternator. My Tundra had a similar issue and once I replaced the alternator, it was fixed. My mechanic said faulty alternators cause all sorts of issues with Toyota vehicles.
texag06ish said:
Start with the alternator. My Tundra had a similar issue and once I replaced the alternator, it was fixed. My mechanic said faulty alternators cause all sorts of issues with Toyota vehicles.
I just watched a video explaining why that is yesterday. This guy explained it very well.
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