4L60E 3-4 piston replacement

928 Views | 5 Replies | Last: 8 mo ago by MouthBQ98
MouthBQ98
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AG
Based on the issues I am having, I am thinking the seals on the 3-4 clutch group piston blew out and it isn't pushing the clutch group together any longer.

I watched a video and it looked like it was pretty straight forward to replace. (Aside from dropping the transmission itself. Once it is out it is just removing the bell housing and pan, and filter, then popping out the solenoid, popping a retention ring, pulling a cover and pulling out the 3/4 group and swapping out the piston unit, then reverse.

Anyone do this before or pay for it to be done. Looks like with a lift it should take 2-3 hours tops.

txyaloo
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AG
MouthBQ98 said:

Based on the issues I am having, I am thinking the seals on the 3-4 clutch group piston blew out and it isn't pushing the clutch group together any longer.

I watched a video and it looked like it was pretty straight forward to replace. (Aside from dropping the transmission itself. Once it is out it is just removing the bell housing and pan, and filter, then popping out the solenoid, popping a retention ring, pulling a cover and pulling out the 3/4 group and swapping out the piston unit, then reverse.

Anyone do this before or pay for it to be done. Looks like with a lift it should take 2-3 hours tops.


Are you talking about the 3-4 accumulator pin less pistons? If so, you can replace them without pulling the transmission, but it's probably easier to do with the transmission on a bench. No need to pull the bell housing to replace those.
MTTANK
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AG
Might be worth it if you are doing it yourself. Don't see how it makes sense to pay a shop for this job.
GIG 'EM
MouthBQ98
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AG
Clutch pack piston. As I understand it it is the most common cause of failure to shift to 3-4 but 1-2 and reverse work fine.
txyaloo
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AG
MouthBQ98 said:

Clutch pack piston. As I understand it it is the most common cause of failure to shift to 3-4 but 1-2 and reverse work fine.
I went through 3 shop rebuilds with the same symptoms until I bought a used replacement transmission. I'd make sure to check all the hydraulic circuits for cracks. That's what I suspect my problem was.

I wasn't committed enough to buy the special tools to crack the case for a full rebuild. I'd at least drop the pan and see how much friction material is in there so you can have new clutches/steels on hand.

Hope you do a build thread on here.
MouthBQ98
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AG
Yeah, it was weird how it went. First I started losing 4th very gradually and it would want to fall into third or not shift up to fourth. Then I lost 4th completely and the same symptoms started for third gear.

The problem is that while it is likely to be one thing, there are a few more possibles that are totally different elements. In the end it is just a machine part and if you have the tools and gauges and the proper tolerances it literally is as simple as taking it apart, replacing wear parts from a kit, and putting it back together in reverse with the proper tolerances.


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