Getting ready to do the first transmission fluid change at about 82k miles. It needs to be DEXRON 6, and I figure full synthetic is the way to go.

My question is trying to figure out the best fluid. I was planning on Valvoline just because it seems to be the most common transmission fluid. But they have the blue (basic), silver (premium extended protection), and red (Maxlife) jugs.

I could be wrong, but I think red is for higher mileage (has stuff to help with clutch engagement). Silver is supposed to last a long time. And blue is just basic standard ****** fluid without anything special. Is that right?

So for a car with 80k, lots of highway miles, no shifting problems, and no heavy loads or heavy use on the gas pedal, I figured silver would be fine, and probably better than blue. Don't need the added stuff of the red.

Thoughts?

ETA: Also, since this doesn't have a conventional dipstick, you're supposed to fill it till a steady stream starts coming out of the side port while it's running. Should I just put the same amount of fluid in that I got out? Or do the whole thing where it's drains out the port slowly before I close it back up?

I've gotten to where I just use manufacturer fluid for transmission, brake, power steering, and coolant. I got tired of keeping up with the different types of each. And I had a lot of hondas over the years and they are particular about their fluids.

Valvoline Maxlife covers the Dexron 6 spec. I changed the fluid in my Tacoma about 5 years ago and it still works great.

I ran the blue bottle Valvoline in my last car (Toyota transmission). No issues at 325K when the engine popped. Replaced the engine/transmission, used the same fluid, and sold the car when the replacement had 250K on it.

My son has a Chevy that has torque converter shudder. He changed to the MaxLife and it cut down the shudder considerably, which just delays the transmission replacement.

The key is regular change intervals.

I don't think my truck had ever been done at 150k miles. The new trans fluid made a huge difference. Not just way better shifting but the engine runs and idles better too.

Ran into a retired mechanic I know today and asked him this. He said he's not aware of the differences between them, and as long as the bottle says it's ok for that vehicle, then it should be fine.

I know not exactly what you're asking, as there must be differences, but FWIW likely won't make much difference?

Also, since you're only getting about 50-75% of the fluid out on a drain and fill, wonder if you could do one fluid this time, and the other fluid the next? I think it's find to mix and match ATF as long as it's within the same spec (like mixing and matching 10W-30 between brands is fine)

bigtruckguy3500 said:

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Ran into a retired mechanic I know today and asked him this. He said he's not aware of the differences between them, and as long as the bottle says it's ok for that vehicle, then it should be fine.

I know not exactly what you're asking, as there must be differences, but FWIW likely won't make much difference?

Also, since you're only getting about 50-75% of the fluid out on a drain and fill, wonder if you could do one fluid this time, and the other fluid the next? I think it's find to mix and match ATF as long as it's within the same spec (like mixing and matching 10W-30 between brands is fine)

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Spec match is where it's at. My m/c calls for JASO MA/MA2 spec oil. You get the die-hard that say run OEM oil only. Then the guys that say use Amsoil or Motul. I buck the trend and run Shell Rotella diesel engine oil in mine. It has the JASO MA/MA2 spec on the label. I've run it for 23 years and not a single issue. I occasionally have a Blackstone analysis done, and everything is within range.

I have a KLR 650. I did the first two oil changes with Lucas 10-40 motorcycle oil. Probably going to use some old Rotella 5-40 next. I still have a gallon left over from my ninja 250 back in college.

Read the fine print.

Approved vs recommended

I over agonized about this a while back and ended up with transmax, it was hard to find locally and way cheaper on eBay anyway. Been working out so far

Doesn't approved just mean they're paying for official Dexos certification, as opposed to recommended meaning they can say they meet the specs, but aren't paying for the certification?

traxter said:

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Doesn't approved just mean they're paying for official Dexos certification, as opposed to recommended meaning they can say they meet the specs, but aren't paying for the certification?

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This is a rabbit hole you can go down for hours. You can read at BITOG or other lubricant nerd sites.

"Recommended for" means it will work but it's not officially licensed. It may not be the same viscosity or have the same exact additive package as the OE fluid. I have seen people that have had issues when using these "one application fits all". And I've seen some people that have had zero issues.

I will tell you at most quick lube places, they use a universal fluid and add a little tube/package/vial of additive of friction modifiers to meet the specs or make the fluid act like the OE fluid.

The official certified product means you're getting the exact product that is specified by the manufacturer


For me, I don't want comebacks or customer complaints, so err on the side of caution and use these correct fluid. I also have been adding lubegard platinum to most of my 10 speed fleet vehicles.i currently have a customer with a 2020 transit with 325k on its original 10 speed with 60K service intervals on the transmission.

For 10 speed applications with ULV fluid, or Asian applications such as Toyota WS, I use OEM or licensed fluids. For the Dexron VI, Mercon V, or LV applications , I'm more flexible to use a "recommended" application.

Green2Maroon said:

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I have a KLR 650. I did the first two oil changes with Lucas 10-40 motorcycle oil. Probably going to use some old Rotella 5-40 next. I still have a gallon left over from my ninja 250 back in college.

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You could use saltwater to lubricate a KLR and be ok.

I do have a marine reef tank.

Looks like I can get OEM ACDelco Dexron 6 on Amazon for the same price as Valvoline. Might just do that, but will likely need an additional 1/2 quart to get to the right level, so might get 1 quart of valvoline to top off. At that point it'll be 90% OEM fluid in the transmission (including old stuff), I think a little Valvoline mixed in will be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-9395-Dexron-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B01EKMGG92/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Charismatic Megafauna said:

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I over agonized about this a while back and ended up with transmax, it was hard to find locally and way cheaper on eBay anyway. Been working out so far

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And yes, over agonizing is likely a good description. When the average person takes it to a mechanic, they're getting the cheapest transmission fluid that they can buy in bulk. And often times it's a multi-vehicle fluid with nothing special added in. Just like you're likely to get the cheapest oil and filter that meets specs.