Southern Spain

4,119 Views | 33 Replies | Last: 1 yr ago by Greener Acres
Greener Acres
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Looking to spend a week in southern Spain in March. What are the travel gurus views on the following options:

Seville for 5 nights and use it as a base to explore Jerez/Extremadura/Ronda/Granada/Cordoba.

2 nights in Seville, 2 nights in Granada, 1 night in Cordoba

Other?

We arrive and leave from Madrid.
UglyScientist
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I personally preferred Cordoba to Granada, but I think I'm in the minority on that. However, now thinking about it, I do think 2 nights in Granada is probably the way to go. I feel like there is more to explore there. I just really liked Cordoba a lot.

In Granada go explore the Albaicin area and have dinner on the cliff side with an awesome view of the Alhambra.

Wish I had suggestions for Seville, but we didn't make it there on the trip.
twk
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Can you get reservations at the Alhambra for your dates? If not, then that would rule out Granada. You don't need a car in Seville, and would not want one if staying in the old section of town (which I would do). You could spend whatever time you have in Seville, then pick up a car on your way out of town (easy to do at Santa Justa railway station), go to Jerez, then see Arcos de la Frontera, and perhaps a couple of other hill towns on your way to Ronda. Take the train from there back to Madrid. Just a thought.

We went in October of 2018 and really enjoyed Andalucia, but you are going to wish that you had more time. With limited time, you might consider stopping in Cordoba to see the Mezquita on your way to Seville (you can put your bags in lockers at the bus station across the street from the train station).
Feeder Road
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If you are going to be in Seville for Easter week, make sure you understand what you are getting into before you go. It is a really cool cultural event but the city operates completely differently and not normal.

The Alhambra is definitely a cool thing to do and if you can get tickets for the first time available or early, I would highly recommend that because it will be less buy and easier to get photos and make your way through at a good pace.
Senator Blutarski
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Seville is great, but you can do everything in 2-3 days. Great place to see a bullfight if that's on your list.
If you want to hit a beach, you can take a quick train to Cadiz.
We also drove from Seville to Setinil de las Bodegas (small town with restaurants built under a cliff overhang) then to Ronda (another small town with a famous / very instagrammable bridge), then on to Malaga.
Malaga is a great place to spend a day or two - beach plus very nice walkable area.
Greener Acres
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We did get tickets and based on the comments I'm thinking of getting to Granada the night before (we have a 9:30 time for the Nasrid Palace). Is it worth it to get a car at the station in Seville and drive to Granada with a night in Cordoba? I'm not a big fan of bouncing around too much but find an evening in a city is more useful than a day only visit if the goal isn't just museums or specific sites.

We could get to Cordoba one afternoon, leave the next afternoon for Granada, then stay the night after our Alhambra tour. That would still give us three nights and most of four days in Seville.

All of your help is greatly appreciated.

Apache
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You'll be bored after 2 days in Seville IMO. Everything there is downtown within walking easy walking distance.
I would spend 2 days there, 2 days Grenada & 1 day Cordoba.
(I say this having spent 3 days in Seville - too long, 1 day in Grenada - not long enough & zero time in Cordoba.... but it looks really cool)
Feeder Road
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^this

You also dont have to drive between Seville and Granada. We are averse to buses and trains in Texas but they are fine on that route. I've done it.

Your OP says you are going in and out of Madrid, so I assume you have your plans there but if not you want to make some time for that city. There are some other threads on this board you can mine for info on it. IMO the palace is a must.
et98
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Greener Acres said:


2 nights in Seville, 2 nights in Granada, 1 night in Cordoba

We did a similar trip a few years ago, and I think your plan here is would probably be my suggestion.

How much time have you spent in Europe? If this is your first or maybe second trip, 3 days/nights in Seville is probably a better idea. It's is a wonderful city for "newbies" because it has a good taste of just about everything Europe has to offer: Castle, cathedrals, mosques (more unique to Spain), river, cafes, etc. Then pass through Cordoba as a day trip on your way to Granada.

But if you're a veteran of European travel, I'd have to echo the advice you've already heard. Shave a day off of Seville and drive down to the "white villages" (hill towns) or over to Jerez and/or Cadiz. I loved spending a day driving around the white villages and regret not having the extra day or two to see Jerez & Cadiz.

We spent 2 days/3 nights in Granada and don't regret it at all. I loved that city. It's more laid back than Seville, yet still has lots to do and see. Of our 2-week trip in the area, there were many smaller towns that I loved along the coast, but Granada was my favorite city. However, it sounds like you won't have that much time, which is fine.

Don't forget the siesta, which Spain takes the siesta VERY seriously. We did a day trip to Cordoba from Seville via train, it was a ghost town from about 3pm to 6pm. Nothing open. It makes day trips in Spain a little impractical in my experience.

Spain also does everything 2 to 3 hours later than us. Breakfast cafes open at 8am, lunch starts at 2, dinner is at 8 at the earliest and eating at 11 or midnight is not uncommon.

I think getting a car at the station as you leave Seville and driving to Granada with a night in Cordoba would make sense based on my experience.

Another suggested stop on your way to Granada is El Caminito del Rey. Amazing hike on a boardwalk attached to the side of a mountain. Truly mind-blowing. It was the highlight of our trip.

Cutting a day from from Granada and adding some time in the white villages & Ronda (which if freaking amazing) is also a good plan.

Overall, you really can't go wrong here. You just have to figure out what's best for you.
eiggA2002
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Are you spending any time in Madrid or skipping except for the night before you arrive and fly out?

I would highly recommend going directly to Sevilla or Granada (via train) the day that you arrive. Sevilla 2-3 days and do your day trips to Ronda and maybe Jerez from there. Personally, I'd just do Ronda and spend more time in Sevilla. It's awesome and the food in incredible.

We did 3 nights in Granada. The Alhambra is obviously a must see and will take most of the day. The rest of the city is great and it was probably our favorite of the Southern Spanish cities.

We did not go to Cordoba, but that's a one-nighter max. You could also do it as a day trip on the way back to Madrid depending on which order you choose. We spent time in Madrid so we ended there for a few days before flying out. We also flew into and out of Madrid. It makes the last day of the trip so much more enjoyable rather than taking a 3 hour train ride, checking into your room, eating dinner, and going to bed and flying home.

We almost did the same trip this past November because it was so great, but we opted for Barcelona instead.

Greener Acres
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All of this info is great. Adding some more details since there have been questions.

We plan to spend our last two nights in Madrid and are working on what to do the first two nights. Our kids have travelled to europe several times and we find that taking it easy the first night works well, so we'll likely stay the first night in Madrid.

That gives us seven nights to work with and the Alhambra tour puts us in Granada for a night or two before returning to Madrid.

A few things that have caught our interest: a Sherry tour, an iberico jamon maker tour (or similar food tour for jamon), Ronda, Cordoba, the Alhambra, Gibraltar, and exploring Seville. We don't plan to do all of these things but they all seem like options. I don't think my kids necessary will care to see three grand Mosques turned Catholic church, but we're definitely going to see the one in Seville and the Alhambra, so maybe that nixes Cordoba for us.

In our last trip to spain we spent 5 nights in San Sebastian and didn't get bored just wandering around, eating, and doing a couple food tours. We could easily do the same in Seville but are considering a more active trip.
twk
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The Mezquita in Cordoba is completely different from the cathedrals in other cities. In other cities, they demolished the mosques and built cathedrals on their foundations. In Cordoba, they dropped a small Gothic cathedral into the middle of a huge mosque, as if it was dropped from outer space. It's worth a three or four hour stop on your way from Madrid to Sevilla.
eiggA2002
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Do not do Gibraltar. It's out of your way and extremely underwhelming. Did it as part of our trip above and was the least favorite by a mile.
twk
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eiggA2002 said:

Do not do Gibraltar. It's out of your way and extremely underwhelming. Did it as part of our trip above and was the least favorite by a mile.
I agree that it seems out of his way, but if you found Gibraltar underwhelming, then I think you must have had unreasonably high expectations. Gibraltar is a great daytrip if you are reasonably close. An overnight stay, however, is probably not a good idea. I would not build my entire trip around Gibraltar, but it seems to fit in quite well, in my opinion, on a tour of Andalusia if you want to understand why and how the Moors conquered the Iberian peninsula.
arrow
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I'm following this thread as I'm planning Spain for late May.

I see the comments regarding Gibraltar...any feedback on Tarifa and Tangier? i.e. A couple of nights on the beaches of Tarifa with a daytrip to Tangier?
twk
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arrow said:

I'm following this thread as I'm planning Spain for late May.

I see the comments regarding Gibraltar...any feedback on Tarifa and Tangier? i.e. A couple of nights on the beaches of Tarifa with a daytrip to Tangier?
I didn't do Tangier, but Rick Steves likes it. I would think about getting a guide for the day if you do it. I could see that being worthwhile.
et98
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Background Info on Andalusia (Southern Spain) from my 2019 vacation

I am a member of another site (private site which a former coworker started for his family & friends that's grown to a couple of hundred people) where we post detailed write-ups of our vacations as a source for others who are planning trips. I don't normally post anything like that on TexAgs, but now that folks are asking about Gibralter and Tangier, I might as well copy & paste a few things from the write-up for my Andulusia trip that might be of some help. It's probably best to break it up over a few posts instead of 1 long post. I'll try to abridge a lot of the detail, but be warned, this is probably more info than any of you have actually asked for.

Just FYI, this was just me and my wife, and this was summer of 2019 just before all the Covid stuff. Some details may have changed since then. Our basic itenerary:
3 nights in Seville (with a daytrip to Cordoba)
2 nights in Ronda (with one day driving around several white villages)
3 nights in Granada
2 nights in Nerja
3 nights in Esteponia (with a daytrip to Gibraltar)
1 night in Tangier.

Spain Revealed YouTube Channel:
Anyone planning a trip to anywhere in Spain should watch the Spain Revealed YouTube channel. A New Zealander married a lady from Spain and moved there. They created this YouTube channel to explain all the things about Spain that he didn't know before as a helpful aid for visitors. They focus on food, customs, culture, travel, & tons of other stuff. They've now started their own tour company. We did one of their Seville walking tours that included tapas, sherry, culture, and a Flamenco show, but I'll have more on that later. Regardless if you do the tour, the videos are entertaining and jam packed with useful info.

A few things to understand about Andalusia:
* Huge Moorish (Muslim) influence. Much more than even more than the rest of Spain, and definitely more than traditional Europe. Focusing on those differences may set this trip apart from others.
* The siesta is real!!!! Spain shuts down from 3 or 4pm to about 6. Other than the super touristy areas in the most touristy cities, literally everything is closed down. (restaurants, museums, shops, sites, etc) Plan accordingly.
* Driving in Spain is very easy compared to other parts of Europe. Pedestrians always have the right-of-way and this rule is followed religiously. Rent your car when you leave Seville. You won't need it there, and driving there would suck.
* Everything is cheap. Prices are higher along the coast, but they're still cheap. Similar to eastern Europe, but not as cheap as Greece.
* Even during record-breaking heat, temps were similar to where I live near Houston & the humidity wasn't as bad

Gibraltar Airport:
We flew in & out of Gibraltar because we got a great deal on it. It was actually kind of fascinating & easy. The runway actually crosses the highway, so they shut the road down when planes land & take off. Definitely something to check out if you visit Gibraltar, even if you don't actually use the airport. The border between Gibraltar (UK) & Spain is practically attached to the airport. Just walk across the street, and you are in Spain. This is also how you will enter/leave Gibraltar if you decided to visit.

MyDayTrip.com
We arranged for a car service MyDayTrip.com to pick us up at the airport (technically at the taxi stand across the street in Spain) and take us to Seville. We've used them a few times to travel between cities & even countries in Europe, and they are fantastic!! I seriously can't recommend them enough. They will even take you on a visit to places along the way to your destination and the driver will serve as your own personal tour guide, although we didn't use that part of the service this time. It's kind of like Uber, but they go from city to city. Seriously, you should check them out.
et98
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Seville:
Neat city with lots of unique history and culture. It has all of the traditional sites that most people want to see in Europe (churches, cathedral, palace/castle/alcazar, architecture, museums, plazas & parks, restaurants of all price ranges, nightlife, bars, street cafes, river & bridges, and shopping). I don't think any one of these is the best I've ever experienced, but they are all good and I don't know many other cities with all of these at this quality in such a small, walkable area. If you've never been to Europe, and/or you want a good taste of everything Europe has to offer in one spot, you can't do much better than Seville. But don't expect to be blown away when comparing their cathedral to the Vatican, or their alcazar to Versailles or Neuschwanstein.

We rarely take formal tours of cities, but we took the Tapas, Wine, and Flamenco Cultural/Food Tour with Devour Tours here in Seville because we wanted to learn about tapas & other cuisine along with other culture to help us throughout the rest of our 2-week trip (which it did). This tour is owned by the same guy who does the Spain Revealed YouTube channel that I mentioned earlier. It was pricy but worth every penny. The guide was a local flamenco dancer who was able to teach us what we were looking at before the show so we'd actually be able to appreciate it.

Alcazar: (castle) was great. Could've spent hours. Very hands-on and accessible compared to others in Europe. The gardens are even better. Great hedge maze and peacocks are everywhere.

Cathedral of Seville: Excellent. Unbelievable altar and tons of shrines. The Tomb of Christopher Columbus is located within the cathedral. The Moorish influence combined with the ornate Christian decor is rather unique.

Hospital de la Caridad: Very old, small charity hospital for the poor that's still in operation. Beautiful church located within. Not one of the best sites I've ever seen, but I'm glad I went.

Great city to wander around in and get lost. A couple of days should be plenty.



Cordoba:
The first thing we did when we arrived in Seville was take a train for a daytrip to Cordoba. this was definitely not he best way to schedule this as you will see below.

Mezquita (a Gothic Christian cathedral in the Roman Empire - turned Muslim mosque in the 8th century - turned Catholic cathedral in 13th century)
It was the largest mosque in Europe. It's now a mosque-cathedral hybrid with the cathedral being fully contained within the mosque. The contrast between the two styles is fascinating in countless ways. Rick Steves has a great explanation of everything you'll see here and why it's interesting. I would recommend Mezquita to anyone.

The moorish baths and the alcazar are great, and are similar to what we saw throughout Andalucia. There's also a small yet impressive Jewish quarter. Cordoba does a great job of showing how Jews, Muslims, and Catholics all managed to live together for centuries.

Overall, Cordoba was our least favorite stop on the trip. It's probably unfair to blame Cordoba since we were still jet lagged and hadn't gotten used to the siesta. While I feel Cordoba was fine, it was outshined by the combo of Seville & Granada in every way other than the Mezquita. If you visit the other 2 cities, I think a short day trip to Cordoba to hit the Mezquita and maybe a couple of other sites is sufficient before heading back. I wish we'd only done 3 or 4 hours instead of 10 hours in retrospect due to the siesta, but I'm glad we went.
et98
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We rented a car and drove to Ronda. It was absolutely amazing. Beautiful little town that is superbly laid out for pedestrians. It's very romantic for a couple like us, but it's also very family friendly. Not much nightlife from what I could tell. Very touristy, but worth the stop. Tons of plazas, shops, tapas, restaurants, cafes, food trucks, and parks. Although Ronda is a daytrip or a stop between two other cities, it can also be a centralized location for daytrips all over Andalucia as a home base. We spent 2 nights there, but really only a 2 to 4 hours were actually spent there touring Ronda.

There's a bull ring in every town/city in southern Spain, but we chose this one for a tour because we had the time. It isn't really in use for bullfights anymore, but it serves other events like concerts and has a neat little museum where you'll learn a lot.

The Bridge is the highlight of this stop, though. Truly one of the more beautiful & unbelievable bridges in Europe.



White Villages:
Ronda is a great "jumping off point" to visit the white villages of Andalusia that lay mostly to the west of Ronda. They are in the mountains and are each quite secluded. We spent a day driving between them and enjoyed it. They each have their own personalities, but there probably isn't much need to visit more than a couple unless you really want to (like us!). Arcos de Fronterra is the most accessible, touristy, and popular. Great lookouts. We also visited Benaocaz, Grazalema, & Zahara. Very narrow & winding mountainside roads between them. Driving in the towns was very difficult. The entire area including the towns were 100% blue-collar or goat farmers. If you want to see the REAL culture and how the locals have lived for a couple of centuries, the white villages other than just Arcos de Fronterra are where you need to go.

Benaocaz was my favorite because we were literally the only tourists in the entire town...seriously...just us. And we were there in peack season. Talked to a bunch of old local men and a few youngsters who translated while we ate a terrible lunch. They were just happy to see us! Hiked up to an old rustic church with amazing views.
et98
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El Caminito del Rey:
After leaving Ronda, we drove east to El Caminito del Rey, which was my favorite part of the trip. Here's a little history:

When the train tunnel was being blasted through the mountain and a dam was being built in the gorge, the workers built a small 3-foot wide concrete walkway along the cliffside to get to work. It was eventually abandoned and crumbled half away. Adrenaline junkies would hike/climb it even though half of the path was condemned and illegal to hike. After videos like THIS ONE (seriously...you should check it out) were posted online 20+ years ago, other daredevils flocked to it and several died trying to hike it. Eventually, a safe boardwalk was built over the original walkway about 5 so years ago and it's now a tourist attraction for normal people. It was truly gorgeous and exhilarating. It had been a true bucket list item for me for years.

When we visited in 2019, it was obvious that they were still trying to figure out the whole "tourst attraction" part of the business. Finding good detailed info online about visiting the place was relatively impossible. Their website at the time looked like something I made at A&M in the late 90's. But I just took a peek at it, and it's obvious that they've expanded a few things like extra trails, picnic places, visitor's center, etc.

You must book your ticket online in advance because they only allow a certain number of people on the boardwalk each half-hour. You'll understand when you see it. If you can work El Caminito del Rey in, you won't be disappointed.




Granada:
I freaking loved Granada!!! This is one of the places I wish we'd spent more time in beyond just our 2 days and 3 nights. Another night or two would have been just fine. Huge muslim population, but not in the bad way that many westerners may think.

Other than the main tourist attraction of the Alambra, the best part about Granada is that as long as you're ordering tapas, you get free beer. They're small beers, but they're free, so who cares. Tapas bars everywhere, each with their own specialty and atmosphere. Just hop around and hit 3 or 4 in a night. Every city in Spain is kind of like this, but Granada is different (better).

Alhambra - The godfather of all moorish alcazars. Carve out most of a day to see it. Book your ticket online ahead of time. Take the train or bus up to it. Don't walk. It's the #1 thing to see in Andalucia. I could fill up a page or two talking about it, so just go see it for yourself instead.

Basilica de San Juan de Dios - Sizeable but not the biggest cathedral in Andalucia by any means, but it is one of the more ornate. What sets this one apart is the all-access hands-on behind-the-scenes experience. There isn't an inch inside or out that you can't crawl around in, including those places only priests go in most cathedrals that tourists didn't even know existed. I highly recommend it even if you've seen every cathedral in Europe, because you've never seen one in this way. It was another highlight of the trip.

Centro Federico Garcia Lorca - If you're a fan of the playwright, he was born and died in Granada. There's a museum to him and his works along with an attached theatre and several statues around town. My wife is a theatre teacher, so we spent a little time here, but I doubt it's for most people.

Hike along the river up to the hill across from the Alhambra as evening approaches and eat at the top. It's beautiful.

Tons of other plazas, parks, and sites to see. Like I said earlier, we could've spent an extra day or two easily just hanging out.
et98
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Nerja:
We headed south to the coast to Nerja. Check out the following on the way or visit while you are there.
Cliffs of Maro-Cerra Gordo - If we had gone out of our way to see it, I would've been disappointed compared to the other views we saw on the trip. But since we passed it anyway, I'm glad we stopped.

Aqueducto Aguila (Eagle Aqueduct) - Located just east of Nerja. Cool, but after our driving trip around the Peloponnese Peninsula of Greece last year, it was mediocre. But if you've never seen a greek or roman aqueduct, it's pretty amazing.

Balcon de Europa - Main tourist area of the city. Cool to stroll around.

Cueva Nerja - Nearby caves. If you're planning to go to Gibraltar, skip it. Gibraltar is so much better.

Beaches - We hung out on the beach for a full day. Beaches are nice. Secluded, crowded, family friendly, or party central...whatever you're looking for is there.

Nerja is a great little beach town to stroll around in. Extremely touristy as many of the Costa del Sol towns are. Less of a resort town than the others, which is what we prefer. But you could lounge around this town for as long as you want and not get bored.

We like to eat Tex-Mex at least once on our international trips, and it always sucks. It's now become a tradition for us, and it never fails to entertain us with all the fail. The restaurant of "Andele Andele!" was no exception. But the staff was great.

Goodstuff Cafe:
If you're tired of tapas and other Spanish food on your trip, I'd suggest a light lunch at the Goodstuff Cafe. A couple from Ireland runs the place & cook an eclectic mix of light cafe food. The owners might be the nicest people I've ever met. Hundreds of reviews on TripAdvisor mention how nice they are, and it's true. The guy sat down with us and chatted it up like we were old friends, and he did this with everyone there. After telling him I'm a Texan, he asked if he could serve me some chili that he'd been working on to get the "expert" opinion of a Texan. It took a while, and it sucked, but I told him it was good. We had a good laugh about an Irish guy in Spain serving a Texan chili. Most people were in and out in 30 minutes for a sandwich, but we spent a couple of hilarious hours there. That dude and his wife were awesome.

Costa del Sol - We just skipped the rest of the Costa del Sol all the way to Estepona since we got a late start that morning. Honestly, beaches aren't the main draw for us anyway, and one day is enough for us. But this is where many of the resorts are, so most of you would probably say we skipped the best part.





Estepona:
This was the other place we wished we'd spent more time. We definitely needed at least 1 extra day minimum, 2 if we'd wanted to hit the beach.

We went at the end of their summer festival that I thought we were going to have time to see, but we were a day late. Oh well, poor planning on my part.

Bullfight - The big draw for me was the bullfight. [I have a VERY detailed write-up dedicated to the bullfight that I wrote for my friend's travel group because none of them had ever seen one and had tons of questions, but it would need it's own thread here on TexAgs.] This was another one of those bucket list items for me since it's one of the few things that can only be experienced overseas, and they probably won't be around much longer. Overall, I'm glad I went, and I knew what to expect for the most part, but it's not something anyone would be interested in seeing twice. In fact, most folks would absolutely hate it for a variety of reasons.

Estepona is a place I could move to. Beautiful, family friendly, super-nice people. I loved this place. Plazas, parks, cafes, romantic strolls, few tourists (comparatively speaking), hiking, beaches of all kinds, amazing murals all over town. I saw more flowers in 2 days in Estepona than I have in the last 5 or 6 years combined. It's what they do..flowers. And they do it very well...like nothing I've ever seen before. There are flower pots 20 feet high in the city. Every window of every house, store, restaurant, & bar in town has its own flower pots with fresh flowers. This is done in other cities all over Europe, but this is another level altogether. It's kind of amazing.

There is also some pretty decent nightlife, but that's definitely not what Esteponia is known for.

Esteponia is also a great place to serve as a jumping off point for daytrips to Gibraltar, Tangier, and just about anywhere along the western region of Costa del Sol.
et98
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Gibraltar:
We loved Gibraltar, but do not stay in Gibraltar or drive in Gibraltar. It should be done as a day trip from a nearby town (which is what we did).

Gibraltar is part of the UK, so you have to go through customs when you enter & leave, but it's kind of a joke. You will literally walk across the border, and the path you walk along will cross the runway at the airport. It's very weird, yet awesome.

There is a cable car that will take you to the top. The ride and the viewing platform at the top are truly beautiful. We hiked back down, which made for a longer day, but we got to see a lot of interesting sites & beautiful views.

Since Gibraltar is one of the most strategic defense locations on earth, there is a ton of history there, including countless old WWII battlements to tour, tunnels, old war batteries. Museums & information are built in to much of these, and they did a great job of telling the stories of the folks who used Gibraltar over the centuries. Mostly WWII info, but they also cover the myriad of nations who have owned & protected the rock.

St. Michael's Cave - There are tons of caves (both tiny and as big as any caverns we have here in Texas) all over the island. There are a couple of tours you can take, but make sure it includes this one. It's huge & beautiful, and it's also used as a concert venue, which would be awesome to see in action! Unfortunately we only got to tour it.

Monkeys of Gibraltar
The place is covered in monkeys. Seriously. Don't bring snacks (such as beef jerky) that can't be eaten entirely once you open the package. Monkeys will smell it, jump on you, unzip your backpack while you're freaking out, steal your food, open the bag like a small person, hold the bag with one hand, reach in with the other, and then eat it all slowly right in front of you while making eye contact the whole time just to screw with you. Don't ask me how I know.
Don't go anwhere near a momma monkey and her baby to take a pic, even if you're still several feet away and think you're safe. The momma monkey will charge you and *****-slap you across the face like a pimp. Don't ask me (technically my wife) how I know.
There is a small cafe/snack bar/gift at the cable car that have strict rules regarding how to open & close the door. If you do it wrong, monkeys will bum rush the door and run throughout the place stealing everyone's food, & even go behind the counter where all the candy is. Even though they can't smell through the bag, they know what it is and they will take as much as they can and run out... like an organized ring of shoplifters taking stuff from stores like we see online all the time. Nobody can stop them. They're so fast!! And then they sit about 5 feet from the door and eat everything just to be jerks. Don't ask me how I know.
With all that said, they are the most photogenic things you've ever seen. They know exactly how to pose to give you the best shots they can. They also like to hitchhike on top of the tour vans, so be careful when they pass.

Gibraltar was definitley worth the day trip in my opinion.




Tangier, Morocco
We took an overnight trip to Tangier via ferry from Tarifa. There is secure overnight parking near the port in Tarifa to leave your car. Make sure you book ahead of time. Only take small overnight bags (backpacks) and leave most of your stuff elsewhere (we left ours at our AirBnB in Esteponia) because getting around Tangier with actual luggage would be a nightmare.

Tangier could technically be done as just a day trip, but ferry schedules make that tough. That's why we did an overnight, and I'm glad we did.

Tangier is very different from Europe. While I don't think it's like much of Africa, I think it's probably a good way to get a taste of Africa. I think of it like dipping my toe in the continent & culture, and we're glad we went. However, I think it would be tough with children, and it would be tough for folks who don't like stairs.

Please book a tour guide ahead of time. Seeing Tangier without a guide, especially since we weren't sure what to expect, would have probably been disasterous. We booked our guide through www.tangierpriateguide.com because it was recommended by Rick Steves. The site now apparently goes to www.ABTravels.com, but it appears to be similar in nature and is honestly a little more professional-looking.

Our guide was amazing. We the entire city center, a few other areas of the city, and some of the surrounding area outside of town. Some of it was a van tour, and some was a walking tour. We learned a lot of history, went to a couple of museums, and spent a lot of time seeing how the locals currently live...which was one of the more eye-opening experience I've had in a long time. It really felt like we went back in time about 2000 years. The guide worked with us ahead of time to secure our ferry tickets and riad (Moroccan hotel). Lots of advice on how to manage customs quickly and countless other things. Excellent communication prior to the trip to customize everything so we saw what we wanted and didn't waste time seeing things we didn't want. We felt safe the whole time, but we definitley would not have if we'd try to do it without the guide. He even helped us figure out what we should do without him on the next day before our ferry left Morocco. By then, we felt more comfortable, especially with his very accurate advice on what we should do & definitely should not do without a local guide. Our guide's name was Aziz Benami, and he was fantastic.

The whole thing cost a little over 100 euros per person, and that even included our ferry tickets (our riad stay was booked separately, and meals were separate as well if I recall). Our riad (hotel) was called Dar Jameel, and it was freaking amazing...and very very affordable.
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Thanks for posting all of this.

twk
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Great information on Gibraltar. We also did it as a day trip, but we took the taxi tour from the border rather than going up in the cable car.
2wealfth Man
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Do you play golf or like the beach?

Kempinski in Estepona would be a good option.

https://www.kempinski.com/en/hotel-bahia

Finca Cortesin, more pricey but wow!

https://www.fincacortesin.com/

Anantara, another wow! place.

https://www.anantara.com/en/villa-padierna-marbella

In Marbella:

Rio Real

https://rioreal.com/en/

Westin La Quinta

https://www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/agpwi-the-westin-la-quinta-golf-resort-and-spa-benahavis-marbella/golf/
Greener Acres
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The details everybody has provided are so wonderful. Thanks for sharing.

For those who have visited Seville, any suggestions on which part of town to stay in? We have a few VRBO options that seem great. One is near the Jardines de Cristina, right by the river and close to Triana. One is in the southern portion of the Santa Cruz neighborhood and closer to the Alcazar, one is near the Setas de Sevilla and the other is in El Arenal a bit north east of the Bull Ring.

I'd generally shoot for the most central location but in our last several trips to a city with something on the other side of the river, we keep finding the other side to be where we want to go visit - but not necessarily stay. Being near a park is also nice as we have two kids that still enjoy some playground time.



twk
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Greener Acres said:

The details everybody has provided are so wonderful. Thanks for sharing.

For those who have visited Seville, any suggestions on which part of town to stay in? We have a few VRBO options that seem great. One is near the Jardines de Cristina, right by the river and close to Triana. One is in the southern portion of the Santa Cruz neighborhood and closer to the Alcazar, one is near the Setas de Sevilla and the other is in El Arenal a bit north east of the Bull Ring.

I'd generally shoot for the most central location but in our last several trips to a city with something on the other side of the river, we keep finding the other side to be where we want to go visit - but not necessarily stay. Being near a park is also nice as we have two kids that still enjoy some playground time.




We stayed in an apartment right next to the Alcazar gardens, with the front on Plaza Alfaro, and the side along Calle Agua. I thought it was a great location (and it was a great apartment). It was in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, but not deep into it. We did go across the river one day to eat and that does seem to be where some of the better restaurants are located (Santa Cruz restaurants being very touristy).
Greener Acres
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twk said:

Greener Acres said:

The details everybody has provided are so wonderful. Thanks for sharing.

For those who have visited Seville, any suggestions on which part of town to stay in? We have a few VRBO options that seem great. One is near the Jardines de Cristina, right by the river and close to Triana. One is in the southern portion of the Santa Cruz neighborhood and closer to the Alcazar, one is near the Setas de Sevilla and the other is in El Arenal a bit north east of the Bull Ring.

I'd generally shoot for the most central location but in our last several trips to a city with something on the other side of the river, we keep finding the other side to be where we want to go visit - but not necessarily stay. Being near a park is also nice as we have two kids that still enjoy some playground time.




We stayed in an apartment right next to the Alcazar gardens, with the front on Plaza Alfaro, and the side along Calle Agua. I thought it was a great location (and it was a great apartment). It was in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, but not deep into it. We did go across the river one day to eat and that does seem to be where some of the better restaurants are located (Santa Cruz restaurants being very touristy).
I figured this was a pretty touristy city but wanted to avoid being right in the midst if possible. Good to hear on the Triana area because that has been my impression from some research I've done.
twk
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That location near the Jarines de Cristina might be a little on the noisy side (from traffic), but, I couldn't swear to that. It would certainly be convenient.
barbacoa taco
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Granada was easily my favorite city in Spain, and top 5 in Europe. What an awesome, beautiful city!

Don't sleep on Malaga. Touristy but really fun and nice beaches.

Andalusia freaking rocks. One of the most fun, beautiful regions in the world.
Greener Acres
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Looks like the weather in March may not be so great for Malaga beach time but that was our original entry point until Airfrance dropped all its flights from DFW - CDG (then we were flying to AGP) for a couple days in early march when we planned to fly.

Any suggestions for Granada or things in the region to see? We've got Madrid/Seville covered now.
Straight Talk
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2025 trip in planning this info is golden. Anyone have more?
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We got flights and hotels booked. I think Spain was the most difficult trip yet to agree on itinerary. Leaving the kids behind for this one, so we are still somewhat limited on duration. Ultimately we decided to sacrifice big city time and Tangier for more time in Andalusia and the white villages. We will take advantage of American Airlines new non-stop to Barcelona. Fly into Barcelona and out of Madrid. I'm pretty excited about how the itinerary is shaping up.

We did decide to go to a bullfight in Madrid.
Greener Acres
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Follow up from our trip.

Land in Madrid, two nights
Train to Sevilla, four nights
Train to Granada, two nights
Train to Madrid, two nights (fly out early morning after second night)

The weather in Mid-march was fantastic. It was cool and wet the first day we arrived, then the clouds moved on and it started to warm up to the mid-60s. The entire trip after that included weather in the upper 60s and lows in the 50's (except Granada where it got down to the upper 40s). Really perfect weather for vacation.

Madrid - I love this city but completely understand why many don't care for it. If you just come to see the main sites it probably doesn't stand out compared to some other European cities. But where it shines is when you go beyond the Museum/Palace/Sol/Plaza Mayor. Our first two days were about the sites - Reina Sophia for the Picassos (Guernica in particular), the Royal palace and just wandering around. We have two small kids so we didn't bother with the Prado though we did spend time walking around the area. Stayed at a hotel facing Retiro park. Great location for the park, not so great for access to the Plaza Mayor/Sol area and not so great for access to the Metro lines. When it was wet this was a problem, when it was dry this wasn't a big problem.

Sevilla - Really pretty town (almost disney like) and really touristy. The entire family enjoyed the city and its hard not to because it is just so charming with little plazas at every turn, hidden alley ways here and there, and orange trees lining the streets. For those looking at this area, Sevilla is incredibly easy. There's plenty of English, approachable food and a fairly compact city center to just wander around. We toured the Cathedral with the Giralda tower and we did the Real Alcazar with the private residence tour. Both were great and I'd recommend them. We stayed in an apartment in Santa Cruz off of Corral Del Rey. Really great location with easy access to the Cathedral, Alfalfa area, Setas, and not far from Triana. I'd probably recommend staying there for a first time visitor and would probably stay in the same area on a return trip. Though if I was in the region again I would stay in another city altogether.

With so many days we basically saw all of the main part of Sevilla and Triana. We had plenty of time here and were glad we committed four nights as it really allowed us to wander about. We ended up taking the train to Cadiz (info below) on our final full day and didn't feel like we missed anything in Sevilla.

Cadiz - This was just a day trip from Sevilla but was fantastic. I'd go back and spend several nights here when the weather is warmer and enjoy the beach and the city. Its very small and compact and feels very intimate. The walk out to the fortress in the sea is fantastic and it would be a daily trip if we were staying overnight. Fresh seafood, a really great market and an almost Greece style look makes it a cool place. It claims to be the oldest inhabited city in Europe - dating back to the Phoenicians. The view from the tower at the cathedral are worth the climb.

Granada - Our favorite city overall and we wish we had an extra day or two. Stayed in an apartment south of the Cathedral. I'd probably stay in the same area again or the Albaicin area (we couldn't find a rental with the bedrooms/bathrooms needed). We did the Alhambra with Nasrid Palace. With our kids an unguided tour was fine because we weren't spending 3+ hours learning. But if it was just adults, I'd recommend getting a guided tour. You can find guides as you approach that will walk with you but I don't know if they're worth anything. If going to the Alhambra, there are bus routes that take you to the entrance. That bus is busy in the morning so either get a head start or plan to walk. We had to walk due to a 9:30 Nasrid Palace time and after two fully packed busses passed time was running out. It took less than 30 minutes and was very pleasant after the first big hill climb.

The Alhambra is everything we expected and dominates the town. But the ambiance and the heavy African/middle eastern influence was surprising and awesome. You're a bit higher up here so its drier and the mountains are in the background, The city is sort of draped over the rising and falling terrain so you get great views. Plus there's a gypsy quarter which is really fun to see. We had terrific Morrocan, Syrian and Spanish food. I'm not sure what all there is to do, but its just a cool city.

On our second time in Madrid we stayed off of Gran Via, just south of Malasana. This was a much better location for exploring more of the town and I wish we had reversed our hotel orders so that this was our first place to stay in Madrid. Malasana has a ton of great places to eat and feels a bit removed from the more touristy areas around Sol/Plaza Mayor. Plus you've got good access to metro and bus stops here to get around town.

We did not go to Cordoba although it was high on the list. Another round of cathedrals seemed like it might start to wear on the kids and I think its a town that I'd rather stay near (just north in the hills) and then visit as a day trip from there, either before or after a trip to Cadiz or Valencia for some beach time.

On our last full day in Madrid we were debating between a day trip to Segovia (been there before without kids) or Toledo. We opted for a day of nothing and it was fantastic. We tried to cover all the major Spanish food types the last day but that was the only real structure. Churros, then a pan con tomate and cafe con leche at a cafe on a plaza that had several playgrounds for our kids, a Paella lunch, playtime at Retiro, a final tapas style dinner at several restaurants (included gambas al ajillo, patatas bravas, tortilla, jamon, queso, etc) then ended up with some helado. This final day was a big hit for everybody and it really made us like Madrid even more.

Happy to answer any other questions but really just wanted to add some context to this thread for future reference.
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