Question on repairing/replacing cast iron sewer line

2,372 Views | 9 Replies | Last: 12 days ago by jt2hunt
jograki
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Howdy! My 40+ year old cast iron pipes (under slab) have leaks after some foundation repair was done. I currently have 3 bids and I'm trying to best understand which I should choose.

I'm either being given the option of re-piping to PVC, or, one company also provided the option of partial trenchless repair for cured-in-place pipe (CIPP) liner+epoxy in some parts and the rest PVC re-pipe. There is a bit of a lower price difference for this last option compared to a full re-pipe.

So far I'm finding mostly positive comments for CIPP work, but I also have come across a few negative experiences. What are thoughts I should consider that would keep me from choosing this option over a full re-pipe? I wish I had the option of re-route but I don't based on where everything is centralized in the house, was hoping to go with something least invasive to the foundation.

Thank you!
Marvin_Zindler
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If you can do CIPP, and it's cheaper, go for it. In your situation, compared to cast iron, anything will be better.
schmellba99
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CIPP is a good system. Pipe bursting is also another option that eliminates the need to dig and replace, but it's usually used on larger diameter pipes versus the smaller 3" and 4" residential runs. But still may be something to look into.
Corps_Ag12
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Another vote for trenchless repair here. I've used it to re-line commercial kitchen waste lines and haven't heard of any issues yet.
Kurt Gowdy
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If you don't mind me asking - how much are you looking at?
jograki
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Thanks so much for the insights so far!

@Kurt, $15k for sewer line PVC repipe, $13500 for CIPP on kitchen line and the rest repipe. Not going to be fun.
kb2001
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I had a similar problem a few years ago. Iron pipes from the basement to clay pipes once you're out from under the foundation. The run ended with some PVC that covered the last few feet to the city connect. We had pipe bursting done to avoid tearing up the front porch and steps also. It was a lot easier and saved quite a bit. All in all it was about a 35 foot stretch of pipe, the total for the work was $12,000. This included replacing all the cast iron from houses drain pipes to the drain access in the basement, all to ABS. I also got insurance to cover the portion under the foundation, which including the concrete tear up and replacement, about $2500 which helps.

The only digging they had to do was about 2' x 8' hole 10-12 feet deep in the front yard where the new pipe would meet the existing. They installed crossing access ports in the front, filled it in with filler dirt, a couple rolls of sod and it disappeared within a month.
jt2hunt
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2 way clean out!
Rice and Fries
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Bringing this thread back up - I wanted to get thoughts on if CIPP is still better then a full replacement of Cast Iron Piping? CIPP looks way less invasive and we don't have to dig up the entire front yard.

We are under contract still in the option period to buy a house - the cast iron has a crack in the kitchen area, roots in the laundry line (near the kitchen area) and roots in the sewer cleanout near the city main. There was also a lot of roaches on the residential side of the house in the cast iron and they said that could be a sign there are other entry points that weren't visible.

The realtor thinks full replacement makes sense but the cost is steep ($35K+) and a challenge with the sellers potentially balking at it. I've done some research on CIPP and it looks viable but I'm curious how it holds up with multiple joints/turns and runouts inside the sewer line from various different sections.

We plan to be in the house (1980 built) for 10 years and love the location (Far North Dallas), so you're going to have this issue likely on any house in the area.

Just curious if anyone has any experience or thoughts to add.
jt2hunt
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Once again, based on price points, it makes no sense to not go ahead and do the full PVC pipe replacement. The small amount of money that you're saving you're still left with a CIPP inside of an old deteriorated cast-iron.

I have not found a situation where pipe bursting is economically feasible on a residential application. Unless there's some type of structures present like a highway road that you're going under
jt2hunt
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How you can usually save money is by doing reroutes and Tunnelling combined.
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