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Removing bartop on island kitchen so the island is all level

895 Views | 13 Replies | Last: 3 days ago by drummer0415
ForeverAg
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Last night I removed the bartop on our island kitchen so that when we put on a new top surface it will all be the same height. We will ultimately have bar stools on me side to eat off of so I had a few questions that I expected to come up.

1) we have a 3CM slab we will use for the countertop, wifey wants a 15" overhang off the wall. Will I need support brackets of some kind for this overhang or is that going to be fine?

2) the vertical wall of the bartop held the dishwasher switch and garbage disposal switch. For the garbage disposal switch I was going to get a countertop push button and have that as part of the install. What should I do with the dishwasher switch? Is just relocating it to inside the cabinet fine?

3) I need to cut the bartop pony wall down to the height of the cabinets so we can have it all level. What is the best way to cut these studs? My idea was circular saw for level cut then finish with either a sawzall or even a hand saw I use for dovetails. I doubt I'll get a straight flush cut with just a sawzall and the bulkiness of it would be hard to get in between the studs without destroying the cabinet side wall.

BenTheGoodAg
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2 - No issue moving the dishwasher switch to the cabinet.

3 - I don't think a circular saw is the answer you're supposed to give, but I'd probably end up doing the same with some kind of fence to get as deep/straight as I could and come back to finish the cut with an oscillating tool - much cleaner than a sawzall in this situation. I'd definitely try to remove the top plates to get the weight off before using the circular saw, though. Also, if you overcut one of the studs, it wouldn't be a big deal to add a an adjacent stud to level off the top. Just screw it in to the stud that you overcut.

I think you know this, but definitely get that wire out of the way before making any cuts.
maddiedou
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Text me and I can tell you how to do this

979-eight two o
l87o

maddiedou
ForeverAg
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maddiedou said:

Text me and I can tell you how to do this






Messaged if you want to take your number down
JP76
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The answer to cut it down is sitting on the counter by the outlet in your picture. You could technically use a skill saw to do some of the cutting but the multi tool will create far less dust in your situation
Caliber
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1. I would use a bracket but I tend to do things a bit overkill (and I have crazy kids) I used these on mine, extend to the front of the cabinet and are notched into the top plate to be level. The exact length isn't critical, they should stop a couple inches before the edge of the overhang.
https://a.co/d/eUNEu1w

2. Do you even need a switch for the dishwasher? You will have a plug as well right? If you want it, just put under the sink, can also do a box up near the front of the cabinet. The air switch for the disposal is awesome and I wouldn't go back.

3. I would use a circular saw and then finish with my pull saw. Easy and quick enough to get a nice level with minimal drywall rework.
tgivaughn
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3CM slab = 10-in cantilever IF in good shape
She is correct and I would push for 18"OH
Get thee some supports aka knee knockers
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
tgivaughn
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ANY garbage disposal switch that is not placed
1. out of reach
2. takes a 2-step motion (ala opening a cabinet door for access)
3. WILL result in a trip to ER, sooner or later ... even IF you have no strangers/visitors in house Ever
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
tgivaughn
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AG
3)
never been a fan of same level islands, good luck
Ten words or less ... a goal unattainable
Caliber
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tgivaughn said:

ANY garbage disposal switch that is not placed
1. out of reach
2. takes a 2-step motion (ala opening a cabinet door for access)
3. WILL result in a trip to ER, sooner or later ... even IF you have no strangers/visitors in house Ever


I'm just a young cub at 40 but I've never heard of anyone actually hurting themselves with a disposal, despite what the movies would have us believe. According to Google, chairs and couches are about 400x more dangerous.
BenTheGoodAg
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tgivaughn said:

ANY garbage disposal switch that is not placed
1. out of reach
2. takes a 2-step motion (ala opening a cabinet door for access)
3. WILL result in a trip to ER, sooner or later ... even IF you have no strangers/visitors in house Ever
OP is talking about putting the dishwasher disconnect in the cabinet, not the disposal?

I imagine a disposal switch in the cabinet would be a serious pain
ForeverAg
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AG
BenTheGoodAg said:

tgivaughn said:

ANY garbage disposal switch that is not placed
1. out of reach
2. takes a 2-step motion (ala opening a cabinet door for access)
3. WILL result in a trip to ER, sooner or later ... even IF you have no strangers/visitors in house Ever
OP is talking about putting the dishwasher disconnect in the cabinet, not the disposal?

I imagine a disposal switch in the cabinet would be a serious pain



Correct I have a flush mount push button switch for the disposal.

I routed the dishwasher plug to under the sink and removed the switch all together. I'll do the cut down today.
Tango.Mike
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At 15" you'll need cantilever supports. Don't use corbels, they look stupid and you'll bang your knees on them. Use granite support brackets (long heavy metal flat supports). You'll have to cut dadoes to get them flush - either use a straight bit router set at 5/16ths or an oscillating flush cut bit. It's not a hard cut, and it doesn't have to be very pretty.

The sideways, narrow approach circular saw cut can be really dangerous if you're not very careful, common for the saw to kick back which at that angle is hard to control. Recommend the oscillating tool (will be slow) or a hand saw/pull saw.

What is a dishwasher switch? A float switch or door switch? If it's a power switch just get rid of it
drummer0415
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15" overhang is a lot of overhang even for 3cm granite. You absolutely need some type of supports. Especially for run that long.

I made a 16" overhang with my granite for my breakfast bar and I highly recommend the same. It's the perfect depth to pull up a chair and eat, without banging your knees into that cabinet. Also make sure to get proper counter height chairs. They make all the difference for bringing comfortable while sitting there. Dining table height chairs are too low and bar height chairs are too tall. You want counter height.

To make the 16" overhang, I used these. I embedded 5" into the cabinet body, leaving 13" sticking out to support the 16" of granite overhang.

https://ironsupports.com/products/hidden-granite-countertop-flat-bracket?variant=15840872988743&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADKUw2rc5JVGC_1vESvf2zhZG1VR0&gclid=CjwKCAiA2cu9BhBhEiwAft6IxMqdzLPcveURxju1EuplNdOS-fcWLBRb1RpLu2BMCRjuWLTithrLNBoCvUUQAvD_BwE





These pictures are taken before I got the actual granite installed, and I was just using a piece of melamine as a temporary countertop, but they show how the brackets work and how well the chairs pull up. Nice and hidden with no knee knockers.

(kitchen looks way different than this now, but I'm not ready to reaveal finished pics yet)













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