Different wire gauges for Oven

1,197 Views | 13 Replies | Last: 10 mo ago by UnderoosAg
ForeverAg
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I am relocating the electrical for my oven however the electrical requirements have changed. I previoulsy had a dual electric oven, and I am removing that for a gas oven range combo. To do this I need to move the current electrical outlet to the left about 4' however since the power demand for the dual oven combo was much higher I believe they ran 8/4 romex. Can I tie in that 8/4 romex at that outlet (change to a flat cover and use that as a junction box) and use a 12/2 cable for that 4' run? Then just change the breaker for a 20 amp breaker since that would match my smallest cable?

Rerunning this wire would be an absolute nightmare I would love to avoid.
BenTheGoodAg
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As long as the smallest gauge is protected by the breaker, no issue with reducing cable size. But I'd recommend you label your wire back at the breaker panel something to the effect of "Steps down to 12 AWG". Also check your wirenuts to make sure they're listed for 8 AWG to 12 AWG (Example).
TexAg1987
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Are you saving that much money in 4'?

I would make it the same to avoid confusion later.

ForeverAg
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TexAg1987 said:

Are you saving that much money in 4'?

I would make it the same to avoid confusion later.




It's not necessarily about saving money as it is ease of pulling wire through the studs, the size hole in the studs to cut, and I don't believe you can terminate an 8 gauge cable on a 15 amp outlet but I honestly don't know that for a fact.
62strat
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Is there not another outlet nearby to pull off of? Then just abandon that 8 ga. circuit.
ABATTBQ11
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ForeverAg said:

TexAg1987 said:

Are you saving that much money in 4'?

I would make it the same to avoid confusion later.




It's not necessarily about saving money as it is ease of pulling wire through the studs, the size hole in the studs to cut, and I don't believe you can terminate an 8 gauge cable on a 15 amp outlet but I honestly don't know that for a fact.


You probably can't with a 15 amp outlet, but you might with a 20 amp.
ABATTBQ11
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62strat said:

Is there not another outlet nearby to pull off of? Then just abandon that 8 ga. circuit.


Pretty sure even gas stoves require dedicated circuits. I don't think you can't just pull off another one.
GrimesCoAg95
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If you can run a new circuit and abandon the old wire, it would be cleanest. You can then remove the breaker used by the old oven.

You could use the the old wire and step down the breaker to a 20a. Are you planning to use only one of the hot wires? The old one is 220V with 2 hots where the 20a is 110V.

Also, if you do this, the old box must be accessible and not covered. You could have it covered in a cabinet, but you must keep it accessible.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) 314.29 specifies that junction boxes must be accessible for maintenance, inspection, and repairs. This includes ensuring that the wiring inside the box is accessible without having to remove part of the building.
ABATTBQ11
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I think he's using the old receptacle box as a junction box, so it would remain accessible. If I'm reading what he's doing right, it'll end up behind an appliance but still accessible without any kind of demolition.
62strat
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ABATTBQ11 said:

62strat said:

Is there not another outlet nearby to pull off of? Then just abandon that 8 ga. circuit.


Pretty sure even gas stoves require dedicated circuits. I don't think you can't just pull off another one.
never heard of that.. that seems completely useless as a gas stove pulls about much electric power as an alarm clock.
BlueHeeler
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I agree with Ben above. Downsize the breaker, but wire tag it in the panel stating downsized to 12AWG so somebody doesn't mistakenly think there is an 8AWG there and re-upsize the breaker and cause a fire hazard.
GrimesCoAg95
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He said to move it 4' to the left. I assumed it would be accessible, but I wanted to point it out.
BenTheGoodAg
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FWIW, It's not a code requirement to run a dedicated circuit to a gas range, but it often is a manufacturer requirement, even for their gas ranges (which is dumb).

When the manufacturer calls it out, it gets into the listing requirements for the equipment (NEC 110.3 (B)). Not sure you'd get called on that one often, though.
UnderoosAg
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ABATTBQ11 said:

ForeverAg said:

TexAg1987 said:

Are you saving that much money in 4'?

I would make it the same to avoid confusion later.




It's not necessarily about saving money as it is ease of pulling wire through the studs, the size hole in the studs to cut, and I don't believe you can terminate an 8 gauge cable on a 15 amp outlet but I honestly don't know that for a fact.


You probably can't with a 15 amp outlet, but you might with a 20 amp.


20's usually top out at #10. Could always pigtail it. If you go back with a 20A breaker, the receptacle needs to be 20A since it's dedicated.

You probably have 8/3 with ground cable. Use the black, white and ground and label as noted.
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