Tree roots: which can you cut without killing the tree?

BucketofBalls99

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We have a couple of live oaks in the front yard and all of the big roots have surfaced! I would like to go in a take a reciprocating saw to them all and dig them out, but I'm sure I can't. Anyhow, there is one or two in particular that have jacked up my sidewalk in one area - it has made part of it raised/drop like 3 inches. Plus I know there are some roots that have made to the house slab (assuming going under).

Would it be ok to cut any I find in the flower bed that are next to the house?

Would it be ok to cut the one that is causing the issue with the sidewalk?

Would it be ok to cut any of the others that have surfaced throughout he front yard?

Any help is appreciated….i have included pics. Not sure how much they will help. (Can get more pics if need be)

https://imgur.com/a/dB4uGIH

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Martin Q. Blank

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2:25p, 5/14/25

Any major root like that is going to have a corresponding major branch up above. You cut the root and that branch will die.

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HDeathstar

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5:18p, 5/14/25

this is the cost of Live Oaks vs the benefit of a long lived tree. Roots cannot be managed effectively at that age, at least not by cutting.

Had the same issue, it will block all the sun eventually killing the grass, and the roots will flare. I now have Asian jasmine ground cover around the base of mine. About 200 sq feet with a rock border. Looks nice, could use light mulch layer as well. Sidewalks/driveway sections just need to be replaced eventually or moved.

Best maintenance advice for live oaks:

plant away from the house,
Install root barrier 5-10 feet from foundation to protect it.
Starting early, Use a 2" wide bulb auger to drill holes around the tree canopy drip line to keep root growing deeper vs up to get shallow grass sprinkler water. backfill holes with mulch/compost/ or expanded shale. Repeat annually as tree grows.

Jbob04

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6:18p, 5/14/25

AG

Not a good idea

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BucketofBalls99

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8:39p, 5/14/25

Ugh, I was afraid it would be the answer I didn't want to hear.

I guess one good thing is, we have two of them in the front yard. The other is closer to the road than the house. It is also the bigger, more dominant one. So it wouldn't be totally out of the question, I guess, for us to eventually take this tree out. The bigger one is pushing this one, one direction anyhow.

DannyDuberstein

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10:06p, 5/14/25

AG

In general, developers plant live oaks way too close together. Should be at least 40-50+ feet apart but it's common to see them half that because they just plop one on each half of the front yard. We moved into a house with two 25-30 year old live oaks that were about 30ft apart, one healthier than the other. After a couple of years, we took the weaker one out and the dominant one thrived even more. Just an incredible tree now and a matching one in the backyard. The whole landscape looks better - it's now a 40+ year old oak that throws out massive shade, but the lawn also looks great too because it does get just enough sun to keep the st augustine looking good.

I was hesitant to take it out at first because I don't take removing 20+ year old oaks lightly, but then my only regret ended up being that I waited 2 years to do it. So long story short, if they are already competing with each other, I'd definitely be inclined to just take the sucker out now and let the other really explode

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tgivaughn

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5:12p, 5/15/25

AG

Not a land.arch or hort.PhD but enough radio time with Neil Sperry & KAMU-FM Garden Success to be able to recall that

One either plans for a pristine grassy lawn without shade trees or shade trees with exposed roots and only shade plants like dwarf/mono grass in gravel beds ... not both
If roots are to be removed, targets would be outside the drip line
Target roots inside the drip line don't have a predictable outcome, so only pie wedge removal zones MIGHT be attempted = why an arborist would be paid to manage the project

No opinons were solicited but my 2-cents below, never the popular offer, BTW

Aggies love Live Oaks, all over campus and give much relief from this humid heat, so I vote these remain #1 priority in your yard; thin branches when bugs are wintering ... some pros offer cutting date ranges
Sidewalk be damned, gray pavement putty from Home Depot and enough said & done ... Live Oak is #1
Exposed roots must remain exposed but if grass hard to mow, then grass is out, gravel beds & /or Dwarf Mono grass is in

Gotta draw since me got no grammar MasterArch '76

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BlueHeeler

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8:35a, 5/16/25

AG

So, it isn't true that a limb will die as stated above. However, 20 years ago, my neighbor did exactly what you are talking about to one root that was surfaced and probably 3-4" in diameter at the time. The tree never recovered. This house was built in 2001 and that's when the trees were planted. This is a Google snapshot I just pulled:

https://imgur.com/a/huynbud

My advise is to water your lawn more thoroughly/longer to encourage the root system to go lower and get rid of any mulch balls around the tree. The mulch should be as high as the grass line and no higher.

The roots at the slab are a concern. I would dig a deep trench along the edge of the flowerbed and cut those roots and drop a sheet of tin in there to keep them back permanently.

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