Any ar-15 lower will work with an upper meant for the same platform regardless of markings. It's just a rollmark.

All lowers are compatible with all uppers. It's just that some prefer to have the lower, where the caliber is required to be marked (by law), reflect what the rifle actually shoots. There are alot of "MULTI" marked lowers as well.

I know there have been 6.5 vs. 6.8 internet tough-guy throwdowns in the past.

I'm a 6.8 owner, and I'm not familiar with those battles, other than that they have occurred.

I have observed more stuff out there floating around for 6.8 than Grendel BY FAR. Makes me wonder if Grendel has lost its mojo.

Don't think it's faded, quite the contrary. It's pretty popular. Not as much as the 6.8, tho. One cool thing about the Grendel is that you can fireform brass from 7.62x39. Endless supply. 6.8, not so much, but it's become more mainstream amongst the mall ninjas. Wolf makes Grendel ammo now. That's a big step in the right direction.

SSA is coming out with a low(er) cost plinking round in 6.8 pretty soon.

That will be big for 6.8.

Being a mall ninja is awesome. Straps for tactical throwing stars on my buttstock.

how do you fire form the 7.62x39 to the Grendel?

Size it down, load it and shoot it. The brass expands to the proper size under pressure.

ahh....so you gotta size it down first....

I was thinking more along the AI case fire forming.

Nope. How ya gonna fit a 6.5mm into a 7.62mm hole? Gotta neck it down.

Here's a picture of pre-fireforming vs. after. Notice the case wall taper before and the shoulder angle after.



[This message has been edited by tx4guns (edited 4/23/2009 9:40p).]

quote:

---

Nope. How ya gonna fit a 6.5mm into a 7.62mm hole? Gotta neck it down.

---

That's where I was confused. 7.62 don't fit in a 6.5 hole.

I could seriously take that into DVM territory, but I won't.

In DVM's case, it would be a 5.56 fits into and 7.62, but the proformance would suck.

I am a 6.8 guy (because I own and shoot them) but my view is that the Grendal round is starting to make headway in the marketplace. I think it has just taken a while for people to understand its' strengths.

I have never understood the "one or the other" arguement. Each round has different advantages and does what it does best very well. There is a place for both.

PP,
I really think Bill Alexander might be the grendel's biggest down fall.

Deats you nailed it. Although he is meticulous on quality, his tight-hold on the naming rights and all that is counter-productive IMO. The best way to make something catch fire is to make it easily available, and right now, that's not the case.

Like I said, I see 6.8 everywhere. I haven't seen 6.5 once, when I have been looking at stripped lowers and such. And uppers as well.

Somebody I know told me today that ARs are worse than other guns because they're scary looking. I tried to explain that they all shoot bullets, it didn't matter because ARs just look scary.

I work with idiots.

So what's the skinny on getting into a SBR? Also I did a little project on Sunday. These ear muffs came with two sets of covers. Black and blaze orange. I'm keeping the orange for range duty and hunting out of state. I took the black ones and did this paint job.

quote:

---

So what's the skinny on getting into a SBR?

---

Guys who have actually done it will be along shortly I'm sure, but I've heard the easiest way is to get a trust in your name. It is less of a hassle because you won't have to get your CLEO to sign off on it. After you get the trust set up you send your paperwork off to the ATF, and when you get your tax stamp back the parts/gun you want will be transferred to you by the class III dealer you chose.

If you use a Form 1, there is no dealer to worry about. Legally form your trust, submit your Form 1, pay $200 to ATF, and get your lower engraved. When you get your tax stamp back, buy/find a shorty upper and attach that sucker.

this might be a better place to put this

i need help with putting this sling mount on...i can figure out how to get the buffer tube off of the lower to put it on...is there a special tube to get the spacer off?

This is your friend. You will need back the notched nut off so you can screw the tube out of hte lower, being sure to watch for the buffer spring detent that will fly out and bounce off the wall. When you assemble it you will need to use both hands to screw the tube back in and your third hand to hold the detent. Your fourth is free however to hold your drink.



[This message has been edited by Centerpole90 (edited 4/28/2009 6:15p).]

Looking for a little help...

I am trying to track down a two piece basic hand guard / heat shield for a mid-length AR-15.

Every place I've checked online is out of stock, anyone got any leads? In the Plano/Frisco area.

Gracias.

that is what i'm looking for i guess...i've scratched my gun trying to get that thing off

what is that called?

That is an stock wrench but I prefer the DPMS AR armorers multi-tool. They will make your life much easier so please don't scratch your pretty weapon...

When you get the lock nut (notched nut) loose the tube will be free to screw out. BEFORE you do that take note of the metal detent inside the lower that keeps the buffer spring from shooting forward all the way into the upper recver. You will see that the tube is screwed in just deep enough that the detent is retained but the tit sticks up and catches the buffer. Remember how thei is because that is how you will need to put it back. NOW take the buffer tube out but when you do take note of the long spring that it is holding into the lower above the trigger guard. THAT spring holds the detent against the pin attachign lower and upper. Now replace your spacer with the really cool one you bought. As you go back together remember to put the small spring in the hole that points forward. You will have to push it into place as you start to screw in the tube. When you get the buffer close to the detent in the threaded portion of the lower; replace the spring and detent and then let the buffer rest against the tit on top of the detent. Screw the tube in far enough that the holds the bottom (fat) part of the detent in place. Now tighten the jam nut on with your stock wrench, multi-tool, or screwdriver (if you want to keep scratching your weapon). Check that the tube is holding the detent in place by pushing the buffer back with your finger a few times. If the spring and detent shoot out the buffer will eat them when the bolt cyles. Ask me how I know this. The threaded tube should hold it in place but it has to stick up enough to hold the buffer back. Hope that helps...

signed,
Old Army B-1 '90


[This message has been edited by Centerpole90 (edited 4/28/2009 7:04p).]

quote:

---

Your fourth is free however to hold your drink.

---

laughing/crying smiley

thanks 90!!!

sounds like ill be going to cheaper than dirt tomorrow

Ag2000, I'm pretty sure i have exactly what you want in my parts box. It will be a couple days before I get home though...stand by.

PP

2000,
I think might have some in North Dallas as well.

Dangit, guess I should have waited a bit longer... found some in stock at Brownell's this morning so placed an order with them (needed some mags as well).

Thanks guys.

very nice....


as are most products from them.

i am looking to help a friend of mine build an ar.

he is a left handed shooter. are there lowers that are made with a Left sided mag release or bolt release?

http://www.stagarms.com/index.php?cPath=13_21

thank you...but it appears that the mag release on these left handed models are on the right side...which is what i'm looking at avoiding