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Who knows about living in Fairbanks, AK?

2,719 Views | 34 Replies | Last: 4 mo ago by Mathguy64
Hoyt Ag
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AG
I have been presented with a job offer and would require a move to Fairbanks, AK. I have only been to Sitka and other islands down south and know nothing of the interior. I normally would not entertain moving, but this is an offer that would set up retirement by 52-55 easily.

I am curious on the cost of living in particular, safety, quality of high schools, and outdoor things to do. I currently live in Meeker, CO and have a pretty active life outdoors, so I want to make sure I am trading evenly or up in that area. Housing looks cheaper than where I am for similar size and quality of homes.

Any input is greatly appreciated.
maroon barchetta
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A former co-worker moved there this summer. Not enough data to go on yet since he hasn't done a winter but he and his wife like it so far.

My boss worked in Alaska in O&G. He loved it. His wife hated it and still brings up how he made her move to Alaska all those years ago.

My boss and another co-worker that did time there say you either love it or you hate it. There is no in-between.

I would think an outdoorsman would love it but I don't what good outdoors stuff there is near Fairbanks.
Smeghead4761
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Never been there, but I had an NCO way back when who had come from Fort Greeley as his previous duty station.

Biggest thing is that winters are Siberia cold. Like, they would go on field exercises of 5+ days and never shut their vehicles off, because the oil would congeal to the point that they couldn't start them if they did. That's why everyone who lives there has those plug-in block warmers on their cars

Winter nights will be looooonng. So if you or anyone in your family gets Seasonal Affective Disorder, you might want to avoid it.

I would hope your employer gives you some kind of COLA, because pretty much everything is more expensive there.
Milwaukees Best Light
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I looked at a HSE posting for a gold mine up there just a few days ago. Seemed like an interesting job, but I will pass. Would be nice to visit, but couldn't live up there.
Centerpole90
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Good friend, like a brother, c/o '94 just posted to Fort Wainright this summer. Like maroon's co-worker I dare say the data is insufficient to draw full conclusions - but he's already thinking of buying a little property to enjoy post-retirement.

That said the abundance of fly fishing pics I receive, as well as all the pics and videos over the Labor Day weekend when he and his wife drove the Dalton haul road and visited Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay have me super jealous. Again, they haven't wintered there yet.
chickencoupe16
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No personal experience but I have a couple of friends who have been stationed in Fairbanks and Anchorage. One asked the Army to let him finish his time and will spend a total of 8 years there. Another would move back in a heartbeat if his wife was down. The consensus among the people they knew is that everyone either hated it or loved it, no in between.

There's a ton of things to do outdoors in the summer. Leaving the bar at 2am to broad daylight is a weird experience, I've been told. Winters are about what you'd expect.
oh no
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my grandmother lived there for many years before retiring to Kodiak Island AK. I don't think the schools are good if that's a major concern, but if you assimilate well and make some friends, you could love it. Outdoors activities near Denali won't be an issue. Winters, if you're alone, might be an issue. The sun never fully rises in the dead of winter. Some people can't handle that much darkness. ...on the flip side, it never gets dark in June.
AlaskanAg99
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Its cold as hell in the winter and dark AF. Summers are nice and very long days. Youll need blackout shades for your bedroom windows to sleep and "sun" bulbs in the winter as seasonal depression is a weird thing.

What you don't know is AK is full of very large, armor plated wooly mosquitoes. Not the little tiny TX mosquitoes, the kind that can be frozen solid for 6 months and wake up angry with hate in their black hearts. When they hit you its like being harpooned.

Population is 31,7xx. Its a tiny city or big town. If youre single the odds of meeting woman are very slim. Men outnumber women by a decent amount. If you are married she had better be of the right mindset. I grew up in Anchorage, the "big" city and it was only 200k back in the 90s.

The seasons are 9 months of winter, 1.5 months of mosquitos/summer, 1 month of fall and .5 months of Breakup, when the ice melts and relationships die.

You'll know after the 1st winter if its for you, as will any relationship be tested.

You will need a 4x4 or AWD and 2 sets of tires, 1 studded, 1 not. It was a glorious place to grow up but being an adult would be very difficult. Also learn to cross country ski, you have to get out in the winter. But watch out for mooses. They will kill you if youre not cautious.
aTm '99
EliteElectric
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Little brother lived and worked there for 4 years (actually lived in North Pole just outside Fairbanks) for a large O&G company. One of his kids was actually born there.

Best I can say is that he spent the 1st year telling us all it wasn't really that bad and that cold there, then spent the next 3 years begging for a transfer back to the lower 48. He got transferred to Houston and would never go back.

The winters are long and dismal and there is little to do there. They pay you well to go there for a reason.
malenurse
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In 2013 I took the family to AK for my son's graduation present. We took the train from Anchorage to Fairbanks with the plan of renting a car there and spending the next two weeks working our way back to Anchorage.

After spending the night in Fairbanks, the hotel shuttled me to the airport to rent a car. I asked the teenager who was driving me about things to do in Fairbanks and he said they have a really cool mall.

When we arrived at Fairbanks "International" Airport, I s**t you not! I was the only person in the entire terminal who was not an employee. This was about 0900 on a weekday.

I know, cool story brah.
The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
oh no
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how many years we talking here? if you're 47 and the pay is so good it would enable you to retire by 52... then can you suck it up for 5 years? use all your PTO in Jan/Feb and get down to mexico or something for some sun? maybe you meet great people and deal with it just fine-- maybe you hate it but put up with it?

if you're 35 and have to make to 52... that'd be different .. but a few years- can do anything for a few years, right?
Goodest Poster
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Retiring is over rated.
There is a reason the pay is good there.
I wouldnt take the job unless you were single and 27, in which you wouldnt make it to 52.
Stay in CO, enjoy the Alaska shows on tv
Always the most goodest
AlaskanAg99
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As a follow up, 2 more things. If you're a borderline alcoholic you wont make it.

You also need to have indoor hobbies in addition to getting outside several times a week and hitting a gym. Have to keep busy doing something.

The cost of living, and cost of travel out of the state is high. I always tell people its cheaper to go to Europe than it is to AK. And getting anything delivered is also expensive. All the ads always say, free shipping*

*AK and HI excluded.
aTm '99
Hoyt Ag
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Thanks for all the input everyone. Certainly some things to think about.
maroon barchetta
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The hobbies thing is true.

One of my mom's friends went up there to build the Alaska Pipeline way back in the day. He took a guitar with him so he would have something to do in his down time.

He became very good at the guitar because during the winter it was all there was to do when he was not working.
AlaskanAg99
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If he was building the pipeline on site, then there was literally nothing to do.

Depending on where you are in life, if the opprotunity has a major career advancement beyond just salary (and make sure that bump both covers COL plus a real salary increase), 2-3 years and out is also an option. That goes for anyone. When Alaska is having a good day. Its the most beautiful place on earth.

The official footwear of AK

aTm '99
Hoyt Ag
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Thanks. Those temps are about what I experience where I am now. Lots to think about.
oh no
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instead of elk hunts, you'll have to switch to moose, caribu, and bear hunts.
Catag94
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Been there lots. (Twice in the last 45 days and will be again in 9 days). It's a **** hole for the most part I believe except for the tourist areas. I was on a plane two weeks ago and there was a lady from Alaska headed to Dallas talking to the people next to her. She too said that all the local Alaskans refer to Anchorage as a dump. She said they have a saying that "you can see Alaska from Anchorage."

Tweakers on almost every corner.

I know folks who have moved to Alaska and love it, but they do not live in Anchorage.


Fairbanks on the other hand is ok I believe.

Much colder and daylight time swings.
I went to the fair there a couple years ago and the people and cultures seemed likable. I'm sure cost of goods is 150% of what you're used to. But, now property taxes and the dividend will help.

Good luck
Centerpole90
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I just want to state here in this thread so I am on the record and obligate myself with fellow posters to live up to it:

I plan to drive the ALCAN before I die. The season to do that is completely out of synch with my vocation - so I'm not sure how I will get it done… but that's something I really mean to do. For an additional complexity modifier, I will do it in my old Land Cruiser.
maroon barchetta
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Sounds like you may drive it AND die if you aren't careful.
Centerpole90
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2 for 1
maroon barchetta
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He definitely was building on site. This would have been probably late 70's/early 80's? Whenever they were still building it?

He did well financially, came back to the Texas gulf coast, and opened a restaurant. Not sure what he did after that.
SunrayAg
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Centerpole90 said:

I just want to state here in this thread so I am on the record and obligate myself with fellow posters to live up to it:

I plan to drive the ALCAN before I die. The season to do that is completely out of synch with my vocation - so I'm not sure how I will get it done… but that's something I really mean to do. For an additional complexity modifier, I will do it in my old Land Cruiser.

That has also been on my to do list for my whole life. But I also work in agriculture, so 80 hour weeks in April through September, and fat and lazy the rest of the year is not real conducive to driving to Alaska.

Gonna need to retire and drive it as an old fart if I want to get it done.
Jefe07
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I lived there for just under two years, as my first job after graduate school was in Fairbanks. I'll echo that the day length is worse than the cold, especially if you're used to it. It's also unbelievably dry. My skin will never recover. I liked the size of the town. Couple nice grocery stores. I was there in the early days of Amazon prime shipping. Now would make it way easier to get whatever you want there. The produce at the grocery store is expensive and not awesome.

I would have stayed longer if the small company I worked for didn't suck. My wife was a school teacher at the middle school right off the base, and she loved it.

My biggest add only applies if you do decide to move there. A certain part of town is a definite no go for living (or was circa 2009). Besides that area, living in town has perks. We lived outside of town and it had pros and cons as well. Also keep in mind that for any house listing outside of town -- if it doesn't specifically say it has indoor plumbing, you should assume that it does not.
Jefe07
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If your Land cruiser is like mine, you'd better bring gas cans. Gas stations are few and far between up there, and those tractors don't get crap for mileage.
Gunny456
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Hoyt …left you a vm.
MemphisAg1
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Wife and I were there in mid February to see the northern lights. We did that in a day and then got bored real quick for the next three. Was ready to leave.

I also lived in the UP of Michigan for 3 years. That was a great experience. Fairbanks? Not really.
AggieOO
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It's gorgeous. I cycled it as far as Tok, the we peeled off and rode to Anchorage. A bit different experience than driving, but highly recommend seeing it if you get the opportunity.
Jefe07
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Yeah, I def don't recommend vacationing there. Especially people on a cruise. It takes so long to get there, and it's not very touristy.
Oldman04
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I lived in Anchorage and Eagle River for over a decade before retiring from the Alaska Air National Guard. I traveled all over the state and loved Anchorage and the Valley. That being said you couldn't pay me enough to live in Fairbanks.
malenurse
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The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But, it's still on the list.
agimarc
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AK is a bit more wild west than what most of us are used to. This part of the US hasn't been settled for 200 - 500 years, which means you guys are making your own history. There are more on both ends of the political spectrum than in the middle, which makes things interesting. Lots to do, though you will have to get outside in the cold. Takes a year or two to get used to the cold and the diurnal cycle (change in length of day). You will come to appreciate and respect cold, which can kill you as quickly as hot can in the southwest / Texas.

ANC was our last AF assignment in 1992. Chose this over HI because it seemed to be a better place to raise kids. We decided to stay, which is weird for a Texian (Dallas). And if you are into retirement in a few years, why not give it a shot?

Only problem is that things are a bit more expensive in this part of the world and a lot of the serviceable buildings (homes) would qualify as dumps in your part of the world. Overall, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Good luck with whatever you guys decide to do. Don't hesitate to contact me with questions. Cheers =
Burdizzo
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Have you ever seen yourself on TV?
Well, I have
Have you ever been more famous than me?
Well, I have
Have you been stung by a bee?
Well, I have
Have you ever met Mohamed Ali?
I have, I have!

Have you ever had a case of the flu?
Well, I have
Have you ever had to escape from a zoo?
I have
Have you ever met the guys in the Who?
Well, I have
I'm in Who's Who, are you?
I am!

Have you ever stood in line at the bank?
Had an uncle named Frank?
Have you ever rode around in a tank?
I have!

But I've never been to Fairbanks, Alaska
That's the only place I've never been
Have you ever been everywhere else?
I have, I have!

Have you ever locked your keys in your car?
Well, I have
Have you ever been thrown out of a bar?
I have
But I've never shot eighteen-under-par
And I still don't know where all those balls are
Except the one that went through somebody's car
One time in Lincoln, Nebraska

And some day I'm goin' to Fairbanks, Alaska
If it's the last thing I ever do
Have you ever done everything else?
I have, too
I have!
Mathguy64
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AG
I've visited Anchorage several times while vacationing in AK and been to Fairbanks as well while doing Denali NO and going to Fairbanks from there.

Fairbanks was not a big city. And what we saw in the "metro downtown" area was frankly seedy. Lots of open drug use, homeless and drunks. Its didn't look like a clean city.

Anchorage felt totally different. We like it.

Both are expensive as hell and induce sticker shock.
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