Outdoors
Sponsored by

tractor buying advice

5,549 Views | 54 Replies | Last: 2 mo ago by oh no
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
as a city slicker that bought property almost a year ago that is family weekend/recreational for the next 10+ years and then ultimately will be the retirement locale for me and the misses, I don't think I can put off buying a tractor much longer.

local dealer quoted me a 25hp last spring, but now has seen my property and thinks I need at least 39hp and quoted me a 47hp machine as his best current "deal" and it gave me a bit of sticker shock.

Questions for the board:

1. where do yall suggest i look for used equipment? tried tractorhouse.com, but not seeing anything enticing other than maybe new equipment at local dealers saying to call for price.

2. how risky is it buying used vs new? how many hours is too much for used equipment when it appears that a 10+ year old machine with over 1000 hours is only 8-10k less than a brand new one with full warranty?

3. how much easier is HST vs power shuttle or standard gear drive transmission? i feel like i really want HST, but most used equipment and most "deals" appear to be standard.

4. if i already bought a green or orange ZTR from a local dealer, how important is it I stick with green or orange for my tractor (for relationships, simplicity for any outside service needed, etc.)?
KALALL
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Buy bigger than you think you'll need. You won't regret it in the long run. I bought used initially and became a pretty good tractor mechanic. After getting frustrated working on my tractor instead of using my tractor to do work I sold it and bought something new.
El Gato Charro
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
You told us zero things about your property.

Zero things about the implements that you intend to run.

Let's start by discussing the jobs that you want to get accomplished.
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
El Gato Charro said:

You told us zero things about your property.

Zero things about the implements that you intend to run.

Let's start by discussing the jobs that you want to get accomplished.


thought that might be too much info and limited my post to 4 burning questions i had.

property is a little less than 100 acres, but mostly wooded. I expect to buy a FEL and bucket and rotary mower right away for sure. ...other implements or attachments - auger, land plane or box blade, tiller or cultivator or harrow - would be more rarely used - not sure if better to buy or rent - will probably wait until i need one of them.


potential jobs around my property off the top of my head:

keep clean / shred an open pasture area (about 8-10 acres) - it was cleaned and finished when we bought the property late last year and looked really nice. it's a hilltop that will be the future homesite for retirement. Now, since i don't have a tractor yet and it's too big to keep under control with the ztr, it's tall grass and has areas of johnsongrass and some small woody plants and weeds - notably some baby mesquite I feel l should nip in the bud. i want to shred it this fall and put some remedy ultra on it early spring, shred it again next year - keep it nice.

another section on the property had been shredded and mulched before we bought it - it's a nice pecan tree grove - about six huge mature pecans over a couple of acres. i've maintained trails through it with the ztr and sprayer, but most of the rest has now grown into high brush - a lot of pecan saplings as well as tire popping mesquite.. would like to shred this area and keep it cleaned every year going forward. will ultimately be an area for a hog trap that turns into a deer feeder pen as well.

maintaining a network of trails around the property, along some fence lines and through sections of woods, etc. might be easier with a brush hog than on my ztr

maintaining along the sides of a nearly .5 mile gravel driveway might be easier with brush hog than on my ztr

planning on trying to condition a section of soil on the hillside for a few rows of black spanish grape vines. i want to attempt to farm-to-table source my own drinking problem. got my soil analysis back from texas agrilife extension. will probably need to till or cultivate the area to treat it before planting vine cuttings early next year.

eventually, a box blade or land plane may be needed to maintain - level out, spread new gravel, etc. along previously mentioned .5 mile driveway.

not sure if possible with utility tractor FEL and bucket, but would be nice to be able to build a tall berm for a safer more permanent shooting range (may have to just rent skid steer for this), and/or dig holes big enough to bury a bunch of feral hog carcasses once I build a trap and bait them

if i ever get to the point of deciding to harvest a deer or two per year off the property to stock the freezers, would be nice to chain up a gambrel to the FEL bucket for skinning and quartering instead of building a permanent deer cleaning structure somewhere on the property (?)
EFR
How long do you want to ignore this user?
I agree with the poster that said bigger is usually better. I also agree with the dealer that said the 40 hp range is probably about right. Personally I would hunt for a well maintained used tractor, the prices on new ones are wild. If it is well maintained and good shape don't let age scare you away, we run two Deutz tractors that are pushing 30 years old but I wouldn't trade them for anything.
spieg12
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Always buy at least one size larger than you think you need. I have seen time and time again where people try to save money and go with a 25 or 32 hp when they need closer to 44 or 50 hp. Ag equipment is not built very heavy in those smaller sizes so trying to do too much with undersized equipment just breaks things.
El Gato Charro
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
1. where do yall suggest i look for used equipment?

craigslist and fb marketplace. I hate fb but they have some decent stuff.

2. how risky is it buying used vs new?

I bought new because I wanted to get some work done, instead of working on the tractor. I have worked on multiple old tractors over the years. I would show up to the farm to get something done, and work on the tractor for 4 hours instead.

4. if i already bought a green or orange ZTR from a local dealer, how important is it I stick with green or orange for my tractor (for relationships, simplicity for any outside service needed, etc.)?

This should not be a factor in your purchase.

You didn't ask about HP, but I bought a tractor with more HP because I wanted more weight in the tractor. The additional weight allowed me to do things with the FEL that would be more difficult with a lighter rig.
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Thank yall. How about hydrostatic transmission? Worth it?
AggieMarkSA
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Or don't.

If it floats, flies, furrows or ****s, rent it.
Yesterday
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I went through the same process as you about a year ago. Ended up buying a used Mahindra 6075. Some things I've noted.

A. Spend the extra and get a cab. Doing tractor work in beautiful weather is nice but it's hardly ever that. It's either freezing or hot as balls. And that doesn't even account for all the dust in an open cab.

B. Buy used. There are so many utility tractors on FB marketplace from everyone who bought 20-50 acres during covid and are wanting out.

C. It's often easier/cheaper to rent or contract the work out. That's not fun though.

D. Mahindra has been great for me. Solid no frills tractor that is built like a tank.
Texaspainter
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I have similar acreage as you, a lot of mine is wooded but not all. I have a couple 8-10 acre open pastures that we try and keep clean and then the immediate area around our house has lots of trees to maneuver through. I have a Kubota 43 HP HST compact utility tractor and there are times I wish I had a larger tractor. I do like the 43 hp when I am shredding through the trees.

I love the HST for shredding as I can change speeds and / or directions very quickly. HST is also nice when doing front end loader work. IMHO, the only thing an HST is not really good for is heavy tillage / discing. Geared tractors are better suited for that heavy duty disc work and such.

I have the following attachments: Front End Loader, 6 foot shredder, grapple, pallet forks, a small harrow disc (too small to be totally effective honestly), a 12' PTO boom sprayer, gopher eliminator and hay spear.

Bottom line, as others have said, bigger is generally always better when it comes to tractors. That being said, my little 43 hp has served me well the past 15 years and I will never get rid of it, even if I do get a larger tractor one day.

Good luck with your search!
ghollow
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
We bought a used JD 48 HP about 10 years ago. It is a '92 model. Included an FEL. We have since bought a 6' shredder, 6' box blade, 7' chisel plow, a harrow and a disc. I am currently looking at a rotary tiller and ditching the plow and disc. The tractor handles all of it with ease. We have had to replace some tires, a battery and a solenoid on the fuel pump. I don't remember how many hours are on it but it is well into the thousands. Still runs great. I did blow a hydraulic hose on the FEL a couple of weeks ago. I will be replacing it next weekend.

IMHO, JD and Kubota make the best tractors on the market in that size. You will hear some say that you should buy from your nearest dealer. My tractor has never been to a dealer in the 10 years I have owned it.

My two cents.

So the greatest civilization is one where all citizens are equally armed and can only be persuaded, never forced. It removes force from the equation... and that's why carrying a gun is a civilized act.
BrazosDog02
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
oh no said:

Thank yall. How about hydrostatic transmission? Worth it?

Depends. If you are doing lots of dirt work or limb cleaning or anything that requires a LOT of forward and reverse the HST is totally worth it. You can and will burn a clutch up on A tractor in 800 hours or less doing dirt work and clearing limbs with a grapple.

Always buy used. Out of warranty you can take the machine to a local shop that will cost less than a dealer. If you buy used, the value and resale of it likely won't go down especially in that HP range.
Dirty-8-thirty Ag
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Yanmar makes a hell of a utility tractor, you may check your local dealer and compare prices vs other compact utility tractors around the same size.
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
thanks everyone.

there is a Kubota/new holland, Case, and JD dealer quite close to the property. Massey Ferguson slightly further - not far but a few miles out of the way. Yanmar is not too far away, but in a direction I never travel. A Mahindra dealer is a good bit further away (would pass two Kubota and JD dealers on the way, but still on the way between home and property). I've just assumed I would end up getting green or orange - and already went orange on the Ztr.


would it be a good idea to attempt to rent a tractor w rotary mower this fall for a week or two. shred some areas on the property, see what i like and get used to operating the equipment, and buy something next year? or go in an buy something now since i know i'll be using it so much?
Gone Camping
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Agree with others who say go a little bigger and always get a loader.

I run an old 54 horse Deere (actual PTO hp), 2wd with FEL taking care of just over 31 acres. Shredding, moving hay, occasionally a box blade or drilling post holes. I wouldn't go smaller and honestly want a little larger. One of these days I'll finally get fed up with working on this thing and I'd like to get a Kubota 7060 4wd, cab, loader, with grapple. That would last me the rest of my life. Know 3 guys with that tractor and they love it.

You mentioned sticker shock, I'm with you. That's why I'm still wrenching on the old Deere.
Gunny456
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
When you are talking HP you need to be aware of PTO horsepower vs. engine rated horsepower. This is especially true on older tractors.
45-50HP is a good all around size and will do what you are looking to do and will have enough weight and hydraulic flow to handle most implements and adequate lift capacity.
Adding front and rear wheel weights can greatly increase your lifting/loading capacity and capability without going to a larger frame or higher HP tractor.
Caution on a box blade unless you have a three way tilt capability on your rear three point. You will frustrate yourself to death trying to level a driveway or roadway if you have to manually adjust your side to side angle of the blade.
The other often useless implement is an auger. If you have ground that has large rocks or limestone formations it is basically useless unless to can apply hydraulic downforce and have a true rock drilling bit.
If your place has no rocks and relatively soft ground then the auger might be worthwhile.
A good place to shop used is at tractor dealers and their trade ins. That way you can bargain with them to give you some warranty instead of just buying a pig in a poke from Joe on the street.
As stated above. A cab will pay for itself quickly. Especially after you run over a nest of ground hornets while bush hogging!
I would suck it up and buy new or low hour used (maximum 100-300 hrs) . I would stick with John Deere or Kubota. They both are popular and hold their resale value and you can find parts anywhere.
Make sure you get 1 front and preferably 2 rear auxiliary hydraulic hook ups on whatever you get. That allows you to use any attachments or implements.
Get 4WD if you plan on digging with the bucket or pushing a lot.
On the subject of a HST:
It is very convenient if you plan on doing a bunch of backing up and going forward. However it is more expensive to fix if it goes out.
You might look at a standard transmission tractor that has a forward/reverse shuttle feature. That way, regardless of gear you are in, you have the ability to go forward/reverse by merely moving a lever back and forth and don't need to shift the transmission or wear the clutch out as quickly. All my tractors have the shuttle shift and one has the HST.
Thats about all I can allow.
ag0207
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Branson 4820R owner here.

I own a similar size property with the majority wooded but about 15-20 acres open. I looked at Branson after the sticker shock of the orange & green tractors. I had two people I knew that also owned Branson suggest looking at them. It is 48 hp & I went with the standard transmission. I shred the 15 acres and plant a two acre food plot.

It came with a bucket. I added a third function valve for a grapple, a grapple, a disc harrow, brush hog, forks, and a box blade. All in it was about 32k new.

2 years in so far and I have been rough on it with no issues whatsoever. I was hesitant since it is not a big name but so far I am happy with it.

My only advice is if you are new to farm equipment be very careful & don't hesitate to ask questions. I interact with a lot of people in my profession and it is crazy how many people tell me stories on friends or relatives who have been seriously injured or died in farming accidents.
Gunny456
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Made a call with my dad back in the 90's to a farm where a guy had a auger on the back of his tractor. He had the PTO turning the auger and was off the tractor with a pipe trying to apply down pressure to make the auger dig. He had a loose jacket on and it hung in the auger. It twisted him up till the engine died on the tractor. A horrible sight. Needless to say the poor guy was DRT.
You gotta always be aware with any farm tractor or implement.
SGrem
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Reason number 10,000 I went with a Danuser hydraulic auger on the loader and W. R. Long third function hydraulic kit.
Www.gowithgrem.com
Mas89
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Since you're new to tractors, rent a 50 hp tractor for a weekend with a 5 ft mower. While it's still hot and dusty, you'll know after an afternoon of mowing if a cab tractor is worth the extra money to you. This is the first thing you need to figure out- cab or no. I'll agree you should limit your search to 50 hp and up for your intended purposes.

If you do buy used, only get a tractor that's been stored inside exclusively. Preferably from the original owner with less than 500 hours. Deere or kubota if you can't find a Deere.
Hwy30East
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Gunny, what town or county did that happen in? I remember hearing that same story I believe from my grandfather.
Gunny456
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Guadalupe or Comal. Can't remember exactly. Think it was a place that was on the Guadalupe River.
Same thing happened when I was making a dealer call in Monroe LA. I was in the son's office and he got a phone call from his mom to come quickly to their farm. He found his dad caught up in an auger the same way. Miraculously he survived but lost an arm.
Animal Eight 84
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
My advice. I've personally owned 5 tractors, down to 2 right now. Worked hard for 40 years taking care of land, cows, hay, and pecan orchard. It's all up for sale.

You bought rural land not a lot in a HOA. Don't try to keep it looking manicured like a lot in town or you will become a slave to the property and hate it.
Try to hire as much as you can afford like annual shredding and spraying and you just do fun odd jobs like dragging up downed tree limbs to cut for firewood.

Which local dealer is closest to you and do they have a good service dept? My local JD dealer is excellent so I have green tractors. Best tractor I owned I bought from JD dealer like new/ used. Told him what I wanted and number of run hours. He found one In Missouri, had it sent to his shop and serviced it. Stress free deal and we both were satisfied with the deal.

Rule of thumb- compare tractor weight ( excluding wheel weights) to comparable horsepower. That extra weight is in the frame castings. Green ones are usually heavier than Orange so Orange adds wheel weights in their total weight. Nothing wrong with Orange tractors for most folks in your situation.

Older tractors without electronic controls are very simple to work on. New ones didn't have user available diagnostics so something as basic as a dirty fuel filter puts it in limp mode and you just get an idiot light and have to call the dealer. That may have changed with recent lawsuits.

Figure in cost of a shed. Tractors left outside develop problems from UV and rain. Also thieves can see them.

Buy biggest HP you can afford. Get a FEL with quick attachments and at least 2 extra hydraulic connections.
Have fun!
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Trial rental is certainly under consideration. Thanks.
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Thank you! And thanks everyone
RM76
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
I worked 150 acres (mostly wooded) for 20 years with a 34 hp tractor and although I eventually bought a bigger one, it was sufficient. However, it was 4 wheel drive and came with a FEL. Usually you can get by with a slightly smaller tractor if it is 4 wheel drive. There is little down side to owning a larger tractor, except for maybe more fuel consumption and some environmental features on the newer tractors. In buying a used tractor, I would suggest looking for one that is not over 10 or 12 years old, has less than 800 to 1000 hours, and does not look beat up or rusty. Its not fool proof, but you can assume that it is likely in good to fair shape. Of course, depending on your budget, newer with less miles might be better. As for hydrostatic drive, it is mainly personal preference, but I prefer a shuttle shift over the hydrostatic but others may prefer the HD.
GSS
How long do you want to ignore this user?
IF you happen to find a Kubota with a GST (Glideshift transmission), it is a third type of transmission, very user friendly, and my 2004 Kubota (bought new) is still going strong, with zero mechanical issues.
Kubota GST explained
NRA Life
TSRA Life
Gunny456
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
The GST Kubota transmission is technically the same as John Deere's PowerReverser transmission with the exception that Kubota uses a single pedal. There are advantages and disadvantages to this system as under heavy load the GST transmission can have a pronounced "jerk" as it finds the selected gear. John Deer's PowerReverser with the two pedal system makes that transition more smooth so they are technically the same and it boils down to user preference.
Both the Kubota GST and the John Deere PowerReverser transmissions can have the single lever forward/reverse shuttle feature.
ag94whoop
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Agree with buy bigger than you think you need.

That said, when I had just 30 acres, a 57hp cab HST was perfect. When I added a bunch more acreage it still worked fine but limited what I could do. So I upgraded to a heavy (9800 lb) 75hp power shuttle and it gives me a lot more versatility
Justified
How long do you want to ignore this user?
There is a 48hp Kubota listed in the classifieds
S.A. Aggie
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Book marked this thread. Thanks for all the info!
Maroon Saloon
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Whatever you get new or used--make sure there is a dealer for that brand nearby. You will need parts and some service eventually . . .

Additionally, lot of your independent guys don't work on these offshoot brands (not sure what you call them)--something not John Deer, New Holland, Case, Kubota (major brands) because its difficult to get parts.
oh no
How long do you want to ignore this user?
AG
Justified said:

There is a 48hp Kubota listed in the classifieds
saw that. It seems it's at least 10 yrs old and well over 1000 hours with standard gear drive transmission. Brand new one same hp is about 30k and that one is listed at almost $20k. Hence some of my questions about new vs used as well as hydrostatic vs standard transmission.
Owlagdad
How long do you want to ignore this user?
Kubota dealers tend to wholesale their trades ASAP. In east Texas, Noonday TractorcAution snatches then up. I've seen some with 60-100 hrs. Either some one died or bought TOO small and traded up. You can buy off the lot, and not wait for auction. Huge auction in Idabel, my FIL bought a big Massey there and has had zero problems.
John Deere or United Ag and turf has easy hunting all over state in their website. Just go to their used stuff and punch in what your HP needs. I dont think they would hang on to trash.
Ditto always buy more than you need and if you have sandy soil, get 4 wheel drive , or you will be like me and go to plowing with your front wheels in dry conditions.
Page 1 of 2
 
×
subscribe Verify your student status
See Subscription Benefits
Trial only available to users who have never subscribed or participated in a previous trial.