I typed a much longer post, but there's no putting lipstick on a pig. I knowingly bought a truck with a blown up engine. A project hole is a dangerous place...

This thread won't have anything earth shattering or exciting if you don't like shade-tree mechanic-ing. I didn't see any other cummins rebuild threads on the board and thought I'd share my progress, and potential embarrassment, as I work through this.

I've been looking for a skirted flatbed for one of my farm trucks and that's when I stumbled on clean one... the only problem was it was sitting on a 4x4 third-gen Ram single cab dually that had G56 6 speed and really, really loud and rattling/squeaking/knocking common rail Cummins.



Every farm kid in North America has been rebuilding these for 25 years right? What can go wrong? So, after some negotiating and a lot of enabling by a buddy - it's on the trailer.



I know this is going to require either a replacement engine or long block. I want to peek inside the beast before I decide - so in the shop the Catastrophe goes. I try not to focus on the 35's and yee yee rims; those will end up on some high-schooler's truck when I find the appropriate Alcoas.



I work in my shop on weekends and when I get done at the farm. I say that to say, I generally work alone - with the radio or TV on in the background, or with MrsCP out chatting; it's relaxation. I usually feel like I can single-handedly do whatever I set my mind to, however, there are parts of this project that will require help. Holy crap. That G56 six speed is a beast. I wish I'd borrowed my friends' transmission jack for working on truck tractors because this Harbor Freight jack wouldn't get near low enough. I had to recruit some help to get it out from under the truck.



I pay the help, and myself, well.



Phase 1 complete. We have exorcised the demon. The cab is sitting on 4x4s to shim it off the frame - Youtube came in large for pulling the engine.



If you are fortunate enough to work in a shop where you can install an overhead trolly hoist... do it. I hope to have a lift someday, but I would not trade anything for that chain hoist. The thought of swinging that big 6 on a roll around engine hoist gives me the willies.


Now that the engine is out we have to have some place to set it. There is as strong case of project creep taking root.

In on this thread. As a 5.9 owner, I always wondered how I'd rebuild the engine just because of the sheer mass of the thing. No Harbor Freight engine stand for that job. Looking forward to the rebuild.

I have an '04 2500 Cummins crew cab automatic with a skirted Norstar flatbed. I've driven it since 2008, but was forced into the flatbed in 2020 because I let a buddy borrow it, and he rolled a flatbed dual tandem trailer with another Cummins truck on it off the gooseneck ball of my truck. Wrapped the safety chains 3 times, destroyed the stock bed and tailgate……ABSOLUTELY destroyed the other truck. Of course, this was right after I put a built 48RE transmission in mine. Adjuster wanted to total it, but they wrote me a check just big enough to buy the flat bed and have it installed, so she's still going. 285K mikes so far

It's been a good truck, no fires, and I've only had to rebuild the front end a half dozen times.

Hmmmm.... Engine stand. I know a lot of people hold these on Harbor Freight engine stands from one side, but I wanted something more substantial. I wanted to hold it from both sides and be able to rotate it. I tried to track down a commercial engine stand to borrow or rent - but the only ones I could locate already had engines on them. So it was time to go to work on my own.

The yellow square tubing was part of an old Hamby field cultivator we scrapped a few years ago. The heavy angle irons were the legs from the grain bin that I made into a chicken coop (OB thread on that if you like chicken coops). I planned to use them in a way that I would't have to buy casters - I could use my pallet jack for mobility.



These disc spools are just right for bearings - but they needed to be opened up a little to accommodate the 2" shaft I replaced in a Rhino shredder. Machining cast is some nasty stuff; no chips, it's all powder millings and makes a mess on the lathe.



After I finished the bearings I welded them to the frame. I put the shaft in there to maintain alignment and was very fortunate that even after everything cooled I was able to gently remove it. I had anticipated a lot more internal stress in the structure. I was careful not to fill any really wide gaps with weld - that probably helped keep the bearings aligned.



To rotate all this mess took some creativity. First, I bought a 1 7/16" socket at O'reilly's because it was the closed to 2.0" O.D. that matched the shaft I was using. My best Google-fu didn't turn up the dimensions of a hex head for that size fastener - then I realized I was holding the answer in my hand - so I did some calculating on Lotus 1-2-3 2013 edition. Smaller fastener not to scale.



At this point I'm going to insist all machinists to stop reading and go to another thread for a while. I am sure this sketchy work holding would get my ass kicked in any reputable machine shop, but I am newbie and a self-taught one at that. This was the first time I had the opportunity to use my dividing head and since I don't have a steady rest for my mill table, or DRO, or a motorized table... I did it in Sketch Mode.



4/6 of the way there. That's 0.6667 to you metric guys.



Holy smokes. Can y'all believe that fit? Trust me, you are not as surprised as I was!




I've shown you the cool part. Here's a summary of the rest of it: I welded some more metal together, then asked MrsCP to pick up a cheap worm gear hand winch at HF. I took the winch apart and welded parts of it to stuff that I had already machined or welded up. Lastly, I drilled some holes in flat plates, did a little more welding, and eventually -



A hand crank operated rotating engine stand to hold up this piñata. The worm gear is pretty light duty and I had weld in a stiffening brace to keep it in one piece. I can also make its job a lot easier by helping it when trying to lift the heavy end of the engine. The ratio is 40:1, so there is ample mechanical advantage - it's just the harbor freight components are definitely the lightest duty thing in this entire picture. And that includes the plastic Walmart chair in background.


That's where I am now. As time allows I'll pull the computer, manifolds, flywheel, then eventually the head. After all that I'll spin it over see what's making all that racket!

Impressive work on the engine stand. The only rule to redneck machining is if you survive and don't fling any parts through the wall, your clamping mechanism was adequate.

The worm gear scares me, though. If you take a heavy part off of one end of that engine, that handle is going to spin around at 1:40 Mach speed and smash you in the nuts 25 times before you know what happened. You have a way to pin the axle to keep it from rotating unintentionally?

I think it's geared enough to hold it in place, but you are right, it does go easy toward the heavy end. I can not 100% rule out such a scenario. A safety strap may be in use per your suggestion.

I had this grand scheme of making a round plate for the other side that had 20 or so holes drilled in a circle so I could pin it at each spot. However, I ran out of patience and wanted to get to the next thing - or at least confirm that this much of my Rube Goldberg device worked before spending more time on it.

If I was going to rebuild a bunch of these, or if I decide to let my inner teenager pick the turbo and injector size (thereby extending the need for this contraption) - I will do exactly that, the plate, but put it on this side - and replace the whole worm gear deal with a socket and cheater pipe.

I like the pin/plate idea, but can see that being a big time adder. Safety strap should do the trick. May get in the way some, but easy enough to manage one build, like you say.

Even flipping a small block around on a stand can be way more effort than it seems, especially though different stages of the build where the center of gravity changes. I like the worm gear setup for that reason, will be a slower spin and better controlled. At least you'll be able to feel the weight shift….I have memories of trying to get a stinkin pin in an engine stand while holding up a bunch of the weight so the holes line up. Not real fun. Mrs Magnum is always a good sport for me too, and that sure helps.

Moar progress pics

magnumtmp said:

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Impressive work on the engine stand. The only rule to redneck machining is if you survive and don't fling any parts through the wall, your clamping mechanism was adequate.

The worm gear scares me, though. If you take a heavy part off of one end of that engine, that handle is going to spin around at 1:40 Mach speed and smash you in the nuts 25 times before you know what happened. You have a way to pin the axle to keep it from rotating unintentionally?

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just please capture this on video if it does happen. of course, without you being seriously injured

Looks like an '06? I think that's the best truck ever built, the strongest pre-emissions Cummins ever put in a truck, and the cab is a big improvement over the previous body. I have an '04 that's great, and working on a deal to buy a 3/4 ton version of yours. I love these old Cummins, looking forward to your project.

CenterHillAg said:

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Looks like an '06? I think that's the best truck ever built, the strongest pre-emissions Cummins ever put in a truck, and the cab is a big improvement over the previous body. I have an '04 that's great, and working on a deal to buy a 3/4 ton version of yours. I love these old Cummins, looking forward to your project.

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Yes, '06.

I have two enabling friends on this project. One is a Ag and huge lurker on the boards. The other is a neighbor who goaded me into this. Both have '06's and love them; both will be yuge resources. Your review concurs with everything they've said.

magnumtmp said:

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In on this thread. As a 5.9 owner, I always wondered how I'd rebuild the engine just because of the sheer mass of the thing. No Harbor Freight engine stand for that job. Looking forward to the rebuild.

I have an '04 2500 Cummins crew cab automatic with a skirted Norstar flatbed. I've driven it since 2008, but was forced into the flatbed in 2020 because I let a buddy borrow it, and he rolled a flatbed dual tandem trailer with another Cummins truck on it off the gooseneck ball of my truck. Wrapped the safety chains 3 times, destroyed the stock bed and tailgate……ABSOLUTELY destroyed the other truck. Of course, this was right after I put a built 48RE transmission in mine. Adjuster wanted to total it, but they wrote me a check just big enough to buy the flat bed and have it installed, so she's still going. 285K mikes so far

It's been a good truck, no fires, and I've only had to rebuild the front end a half dozen times.

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335k on my '07 and my 15 y/o is trying to talk me out of it.....

Centerpole90 said:

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I've shown you the cool part. Here's a summary of the rest of it: I welded some more metal together, then asked MrsCP to pick up a cheap worm gear hand winch at HF. I took the winch apart and welded parts of it to stuff that I had already machined or welded up. Lastly, I drilled some holes in flat plates, did a little more welding, and eventually -

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Liking the thread, and much appreciate the candor and the scattered self-deprecation.

However, I am MOST impressed by what was said in the emboldened text! That's a level of trust in execution that I would fail to expect to occur the first time, much less the third or fourth time if I even let it go that far. Please tell me you didn't order it online and simply have her pick it up?

cavscout96 said:

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magnumtmp said:

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In on this thread. As a 5.9 owner, I always wondered how I'd rebuild the engine just because of the sheer mass of the thing. No Harbor Freight engine stand for that job. Looking forward to the rebuild.

I have an '04 2500 Cummins crew cab automatic with a skirted Norstar flatbed. I've driven it since 2008, but was forced into the flatbed in 2020 because I let a buddy borrow it, and he rolled a flatbed dual tandem trailer with another Cummins truck on it off the gooseneck ball of my truck. Wrapped the safety chains 3 times, destroyed the stock bed and tailgate……ABSOLUTELY destroyed the other truck. Of course, this was right after I put a built 48RE transmission in mine. Adjuster wanted to total it, but they wrote me a check just big enough to buy the flat bed and have it installed, so she's still going. 285K mikes so far

It's been a good truck, no fires, and I've only had to rebuild the front end a half dozen times.

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335k on my '07 and my 15 y/o is trying to talk me out of it.....

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I have an almost 14 yo that eyes my Cummins, but he really wants my '91 Toyota ext cab 4x4. I'll probably give him that truck after he practices wrecking a cheaper car first.

AggieRob93 said:

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That's a level of trust in execution that I would fail to expect to occur the first time, much less the third or fourth time if I even let it go that far. Please tell me you didn't order it online and simply have her pick it up?

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Hybrid. I printed out a page from the website and asked her to pick it up. She had to win the scavenger hunt that is finding that one particular thing in HF, and she did it like a champ.

Centerpole90 said:

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AggieRob93 said:

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That's a level of trust in execution that I would fail to expect to occur the first time, much less the third or fourth time if I even let it go that far. Please tell me you didn't order it online and simply have her pick it up?

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Hybrid. I printed out a page from the website and asked her to pick it up. She had to win the scavenger hunt that is finding that one particular thing in HF, and she did it like a champ.

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Do you still print directions from Mapquest too?

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Do you still print directions from Mapquest too?

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Kiddo. Did you not see me do that math with a pencil, and show my work?

Been pretty busy planting, so I haven't been working at the pace I would have liked in the shop, but I did get far enough around everything to take the head off tonight.

After our last update [engine stand completed] I covered and protected every sensor and opening on the motor. Then I set it all outside and over the course of three days, probably emptied 4 cans of engine cleaner and gave it several high pressure washings. It was amazing what a difference that made. Someone had been running it with the valve cover vent tube off so the blowby was just dousing the driver's side in oily residue that caked everything. When I got done it looked much better. Teardown of the top end was pretty straight forward.

Tonight I pulled the head and it seems one of these things does not look like the others...



Hello Mr. #3 Piston, meet Mr. Head. Mr. Head this is Mr. #3 Piston.



It was encouraging to see the spray pattern from all the injectors was pretty uniform and even on all the pistons.



There was also some galling of the #1 cylinder. The cross hatching is still evident in the cylinder bore, but you can see some wear at the top of the stroke.



For sh*ts and giggles I mic'ed the cylinder bores. The values kept coming up right at 4.040". There were a few that were a couple thousandths less but I think that was me not taking enough time or maybe not clearing all the soot ring at the top of the stroke. It was evident the bore as 4.040". Over a sandwich (I had to make my own, MrsCP is out of town) this evening I googled the factory bore and it's 4.02". So I think it's pretty safe to assume the block is not virgin and has already been punched out 20 thou.

Judging from the top end I fully expect #3 rod bearing is adios and IDK what to expect on mains. It doesn't bind through the rotation so I might be surprised, maybe it's all rod. Honestly, I am going to do some soul searching. I am leaning hard toward a long block. I don't want to take away from the exercise by shortcutting a rebuild, but I also don't want to be reviving a block for its 3rd or 4th go-around.

If you've been here before with one of these, chime in please.

For your entertainment, #3 piston rolling back into its bore like a pinball that hits every bumper on it's way out of sight. At the end of the video you see it drop more than the bass at a Kid Rock concert.




I left the doors of the truck open to let some of the musty smell out from being parked a couple years. I need to do some research on changing to double din radio so I can hook myself up with CarPlay & speakers when I sort out the mechanicals. Open to suggestions here too from you third-gen guys.

I don't have anything to add except you're living out my dream. I'm a former cummins guru and will be back when the time is right in life.

I'm young enough I had a new 3rd gen (2005 model) while at A&M. I won the hot street class at a dyno event in '07 with 547 hp spraying water meth plumbed from my toolbox. Fuel only was 525 rwhp, crazy Larry stacked with TST & Edge EZ pumping air from a SPS 62. I later made 608 hp fuel only with a single PPE tune after upgrading to a silver bullet and larger injectors. I also blew the center out of my flex plate on 2818, melted a wiring harness in the mall parking lot, and lots, lots more carnage before I gave it up. I later had a 94 and then a 95 12 valve - and a 98.5 24 valve NV4500. Lost 5th gear nut 3 hours from CS one Sunday afternoon. And all of those were while I was an undergrad.

I later had a 2007 G56 5.9 ccswb 4x4, everything stock except crazy Larry and a Valair street dual disc. It was perfect except it had an open diff. I got mad at it after the water pump blew up while on I-35 loaded down with lots of atv toys in the left hand lane…I coasted to a stop safely, took out my beer cooler, carried it to the service road, had a cold one and sat on the cooler until help arrived. Never drove it again, fixed it and sold it.

Someday I will do what you are doing with a 3rd gen. I look forward for what's to come in your build.

Pic is of my 2005. I bet someone here will recognize this truck….

EskimoJoe said:

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Pull the oil pan and have a look at the bottom end. There is a chance the bearing on that number 3 is sloppy loose. The scoring on #1 is suspect. I wonder if it got hot at some point and started a head gasket leak there. Water gets in the oil pan and #3 bearing got the loosest the fastest. What do the push rods look like on that #3?

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I plan to pull the pan in the next couple nights. The bearing on #3 is definitely sloppier than silvy's ponrhub search history. The push rods on that cylinder, in fact all of them, are perfectly straight and all the contact patches look great with no visible galling or damage.

I feel like I'm just surveying the damage here and putting off the inevitable by not being on the phone ordering a long block this morning. However, I am distracted right now in the field and want to get that done so I can devote some time to educate myself, talk to some folks, and find the right starting spot.

ETA. Saw this the other day. Reminded me of you.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpTHdG1jp6S/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

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The bearing on #3 is definitely sloppier than silvy's ponrhub search history.

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You'll never be a pipeline welder with those wheels. If you want a future in oilfield welding you need to keep the wheels that are already on it.

Streetfighter 02 said:

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You'll never be a pipeline welder with those wheels. If you want a future in oilfield welding you need to keep the wheels that are already on it.

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We can't be making pipeliner jokes, without tipping our hats to one of the best videos in the history of YouTube.

LANGUAGE WARNING.