Not buying what the shop is trying to sell me...

November of 2023 the truck failed a state inspection with a Cylinder 7 misfire. Turns out had a burnt exhaust valve, evidence by a failed cylinder leak down test. The diagnosis was confirmed when the head was removed. Both heads were sent to a machine shop for rebuild. New timing system (while they were that deep into the engine), etc.

A month later the truck was quickly back in the shop. The heater wasn't working correctly and the truck was running a little on the hot side, 225* indicated on the aftermarket radio display. Swapped the upper radiator hose and T connector.

I've been out of town for work A LOT this year. The truck has only driven ~10,000 miles in the past 12 months. Right before Christmas I put the truck back for again, the heater not running correctly and the engine running hot. Started monitoring in the low 210's and by the time I got it in, a couple days later, it had run (briefly) as warm as 240.

Tech is saying that following a coolant system pressure test there is coolant pooling below the intake manifold. Upon removal of the intake manifold says the head gaskets (report says plural) are leaking. Shops recommendation is an engine replacement. They haven't quoted this yet, but they say that last years head rebuild would count towards the total.

Needless to say, this isn't the news I'm looking for. We're already at several hours of shop labor just to remove the intake so see the top of the engine. Heads are still on of course as that would be hours more labor to strip everything down.

What is the general thoughts here? Do I have them put everything back and fill the coolant system and just monitor? Find another shop (from the Spring shop rec thread) and get a 2nd opinion? Start looking for a new truck (reproag)?

Current shop update...
With a ~$7,700 credit from last years head job... Just over $10,000 for a reman engine with 20k fewer miles. 24 month, 24,000 mile warranty.
Tech still believes that the coolant pressure test on a cold engine, leaking on both heads is a warped block since the heads are recently machined.

Not a mechanic...but, wouldn't they be able to pull one of the heads and check both the block and that head for flatness without pulling engine? I would sure think so. Then maybe you get more definitive answer than they "think it is warped block". Could be that they didn't get the heads flat last time and that just needs done.

Pulling a head is not an insignificant undertaking. The Ford 5.0 is a dual overhead cam engine. To get the head off you're pulling the intake (already off) but then you're removing the valve covers, timing chain cover, timing chains, and likely the water pump....

As I recall, getting the head(s) off last year was roughly 8 hrs of shop time.

I would put it back together and take to Ritchie brothers auctions. And find another vehicle. Too many variables and what ifs after the repair. I had the same 2014 truck/ engine and with higher miles, it was just in the shop too many times.
Good luck

Kenneth_2003 said:

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Pulling a head is not an insignificant undertaking. The Ford 5.0 is a dual overhead cam engine. To get the head off you're pulling the intake (already off) but then you're removing the valve covers, timing chain cover, timing chains, and likely the water pump....

As I recall, getting the head(s) off last year was roughly 8 hrs of shop time.

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If the shop is trying to do the right thing, they should consider supplementing - as it is possible their prior work has something to do with the leaking head gaskets. If it was one side leaking maybe not - but both. My hunch is they did something wrong.

If you take it somewhere else they are def going to charge you the 8 hours of labor to find out. Maybe this shop would agree to splitting the cost with you and only bill 4 hours and then apply that to the final bill if they determine it was the heads. You'll just sort of be at the mercy of them being honest enough to admit they made a mistake vs blaming it on the block.

As stated - both head gaskets leaking within 10k miles of their repair makes me think it was their repair that is the cause.

Tough spot - I hope you get it resolved fairly. Good luck!

I'm wishing right now I'd taken it to a specialized shop like Houston's OG, Thunderbolt, last year rather than let the shop that did the (proper) diagnostics last year.

I can't get past the idea that this shop thinks they can break even between the heads last year and whatever the margins are on this remain engine they've sourced (wherever it's coming from), and in doing so cover up whatever they screwed up.

It's all hogwash, dug too deep into the engine at the initial repair. "While we're here" type of work just opens yourself up to more potential issues as evidenced here.

Out of curiosity, what gas stations did you typically fill up at?

The only "while we're here" was timing chains and cam shaft rollers/bearings/etc since they are removed to get to the heads. The 2nd head was a "we've come this far." If anyone I think this hurts their claim that the engine block warped on its own because it's leaking everywhere they touched it. If the block wrapped in both deck kids as their tech says, independent of the work he did, then that would be more believable has I declined to rebuild the driver's side head and have it on the truck.

Fuel is name brand convenience stores. Occasionally Kroger, when the folks have more fuel points about to expire than they're going to use. I used to work at that Kroger, their fuel is Chevron.

Curious to your thoughts regarding fuel.

Fuel choice didn't cause this.

"We've come this far" led to literally double the work lol

Cheap fuel leads to carbon deposits, carbon deposits on a valve would yield a failed leak down test. Just because it's a name brand store doesn't mean it's top tier fuel. Does the Chevron fuel that's delivered to Kroger have the same additives?