FIDO 96 said:

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First step is to lie to your wife on what you think you will spend. I told my wife $30k was my budget. That was like $18k ago.

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I always tell Mr Dubi to take his estimate x 3! Then I'm happy when it is less.

I think it's silly to be concerned about gas mileage with such an old vehicle. I bet it gets 15 MPG all day.

Those engines are great. I believe they put them in F150s well into the 90s.

Three on the tree is a fun oddity these days. I wouldn't change a thing. But, it's your truck, do what you like.

Charismatic Megafauna said:

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Try researching this one: LS swap

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I'm normally team LS swap everything (or maybe coyote in this case), but if it was my grandpas truck I'd want to drive it like my grandpa did and keep the truck 6/3 speed. You can keep the feel and do minor modifications like electronic ignition, throttled body injectors, modern alternator/regulator etc that will still make it more reliable and nice to drive.

If you're considering the LS route then you might as well consider a crown Vic swap because everything will need to be upgraded for the new power/weight anyways.

jaborch99 said:

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I have no idea how far I'll go with this, but I've been draming a bit. I ran across the Signature Series by Velocity Resorations and .... wow. This is now my inspiration (although mine would surely be a poor man's version). Apparently these are considered "RestoMods" rather than "Restorations" (that was a new term for me). I'd love to work towards this and possibly use it as a daily driver.

A few questions that have popped into my mind as I sit in the sick bed:

• Engine -- I haven't decided whether I would eventually like to swap out the engine. I'm pretty sure its a 300 Inline 6 (possibly the 240). If it becomes a daily driver, gas mileage will be a consideration so I was thinking I may need to go to fuel injectors. I wouldn't race it or show it off, but I also don't want to feel like its struggling to get off the blocks or travel at highway speeds. Thoughts?
• Transmission - It is a 3 on the tree. I think can find all the gears with the clutch pushed in, but it takes some strength. What should I be thinking about to make this transmission operational? I prefer a floor shifter, so if I go all the way with this, I may try to make that switch (or hire someone else to). Thoughts?

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If you're looking for little more power you can find some budget late 1990's Ford 351W blocks. Don't be that guy that puts a Chevy motor in a Ford. I'm a Ford guy through and through and so was my grandfather. If you want a new motor I'd go with a Gen 3 Coyote 5.0

https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/351-windsor-engine-build-982-1645-82s-1/

EskimoJoe said:

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If you are lucky, the clutch master and slave cylinder still work and you should have some clutch petal and be able to move it through the gears. If not, there might be an inspection play you could remove and peek in there.

As for the coil wire, it is the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor.

Go ahead and self enroll in youtube university there's a ton of information available.

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There is no clutch master/slave. It has a mechanical linkage, or at least that did on the 302 / 3 on a tree configuration anyway.

For the record i was kidding about the LS swap, i think if the truck becomes anything other than a mildly restored driver he should go all out with a blown big block and tubbed rear end. But he shouldn't.

classicdoug said:

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The rust is what scares me on this one.

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+ Eleventy zillion

I wondered if it might be a mechanical clutch. I'm more familiar with Generic Motors than Ferd. A mechanical clutch would be better for a novice to learn on.

My favorite classic Ford pickup motor is the 300 I6. Dead reliable and simple. Look around on Google, guys are building them and getting good power out of them.

EskimoJoe said:

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I wondered if it might be a mechanical clutch. I'm more familiar with Generic Motors than Ferd. A mechanical clutch would be better for a novice to learn on.

My favorite classic Ford pickup motor is the 300 I6. Dead reliable and simple. Look around on Google, guys are building them and getting good power out of them.

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First hydraulic clutch I ever saw on a Ford that wasn't an OTR truck was when they started putting the 6.9 diesel in the F250/350 in 1983. The gassers still had mechanical clutch linkage for a long time.

dubi said:

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classicdoug said:

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The rust is what scares me on this one.

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+ Eleventy zillion

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Nah, this how to makes it look easy

I watch a lot of "Junkyard Digs" on Youtube, and this looks pretty straight forward. The advice to get it cleaned, lubricated, and running first are all good.

After that, they usually put tires on it to see if it'll roll forward and back in gear. Then it's usually brake job time.

Getting it running, driving, stopping is going to be a HUGE milestone. Then you get to decide what you want to spend your time on first - mechanical, cosmetic, etc.

Do you instagram OP? If so you need to follow this account for inspiration.

https://www.instagram.com/kubikmotorsports?igsh=NnNwdG41MGd0dmlj

^

My guy knows.

Centerpole90 said:

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Do you instagram OP? If so you need to follow this account for inspiration.

https://www.instagram.com/kubikmotorsports?igsh=NnNwdG41MGd0dmlj

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Thanks for the recommendation. I'm now following them. I'll have to make myself sign into IG occasionally to see their posts.

Status Update:

I've been battling some kind of resporatory virus for the past couple of weeks, so my progress hasn't been as quick as I had hoped, but I have been able to take some baby steps (and stumbles).

• Been binging an unhealthy amount of YouTube content, prominently featuring Vice Grip Garage (thanks to this board's recommendation)
• Got the wife on board with my new "hobby." WIN!
• Vacuumed the truck as possible without disassembling anything.
• Cleaned all the junk and debris out of the bed.
• Put new tires on it that will actually hold air (enabling me to move the truck much more easily)
• Confirmed that I am working with a 240 straight 6, not a 300.
• Confirmed that the engine will manually turn over
• Attempted to rebuild the carburetor; didn't take enough pictures during the process and gave up. In true Vice Grip Garage fashion, ordered a cheap Chinese version off Amazon that purports to fit. It was delivered today.
• Removed spark plugs and put a little bit of Mystery Oil into each cylinder.
• Removed the V-belt

My next steps:

• Install new carb
• Replace V-belt
• Replace spark plug wires

Questions for the board. Remember, my current goal is merely to get it started. Once that is done, I can go back and work on fine tuning it:

• At this point is it necessary to replace the spark plugs?
• At this point, should I replace the distributor? If so, is it worth it to go ahead and upgrade to an HEI?
• I found a "new" (unused) ignition coil still in the box in the cab as I was cleaning it out. Apparently it was purchased at some point but never installed. Is it worth the effort to go ahead and install it?

You haven't watched enough Vice Grip.

Install new carb "fuel make it happener"
Replace V-belt
Replace spark plug wires. "Lightning cables"

Fify

Independence H-D said:

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You haven't watched enough Vice Grip.

Install new carb "fuel make it happener"
Replace V-belt
Replace spark plug wires. "Lightning cables"

Fify

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Haha. I almost used that lingo.

Check the frame for rust damage sooner rather than later. Rust damage to body panels and the floor can be repaired, the frame is a different story.

Good luck, this is an awesome find!

Spark plugs are cheap. Might as well put new while you're there. At this point I would stick with current dizzy. Make sure the points are sparking. If not you can clean them with sandpaper & that usually gets them going. Should be a blue spark. Don't forget to use chainsaw gas down the throat of the carb if you want to be like Derek.

Id drain the oil and add new oil & oil filter. Also fresh coolant in the radiator. I'd also replace all the rubber hoses get new rubber. Grease all the bearings and ball joints. At some point will need to get new fluid/seals in the transmission and rearend.

Mikes Carburetor Parts a good resource for Carb parts.

https://www.carburetor-parts.com

jaborch99 said:

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My next steps:

• Install new carb
• Replace V-belt
• Replace spark plug wires

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I'd probably go ahead and throw new plugs on it. Somewhat concerning that there's a new coil in the glovebox as that may mean someone may have been trying to diagnose a problem when it was parked but that system is about as simple as you can get. It comes down to fuel/air/spark/timing. Throw that carb and belt on and try and start it pulling from a container of fresh gas. If no start make sure the carb is getting gas and check spark at the plugs. If it has gas but no spark maybe check compression and mechanical timing to make sure you don't have bigger issues before throwing money at the ignition, but that should be all it takes to make it run.

Not an expert but the first thing I would do is get underneath it and check the frame and floor board for rust. Who cares if you can get it to run if the entire frame is rotted?

Cause it's very exciting to hear an engine roar

will.mcg said:

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Cause it's very exciting to hear an engine roar

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There is also a certain gratification of finding something old or broken and making it work again, often to the detriment of a pocketbook.

OP. Google a guy "Jennings Motorsports" on Youtube. He gets old carburated stuff running like this. You could probably learn some tips and trips from him. All it needs is fuel and the ignition working to fire up. Make sure it has (good) fluids in it.