I'm basically a cycling noob. I've had a single speed Retrospec Harper for a few years, but haven't done much more than the occasional workout mixed in with come light commuting.

It's a super cheap bike but I've started to put in some mileage on it in the last few months and I've started to look at spending some money to get something that would allow me to do routes with more elevation gain. Obviously a single speed is a killer on hills.

I've been averaging about 15 mph on my single speed with about 500 feet of gain over 10 miles or so, which I feel like is pretty solid. I really just want to get faster (I already have) and be able to cover more mileage in a shorter amount of time.

Anyway, I wanted to give some background before I asked what should my next steps be? I'm averaging well over 50 miles a week and want to do much more.

I'm in East Dallas, so I do the White Rock look often. I've thought about a gravel bike so I could do the Trinity Levee and expand my riding options but I'm keeping my options open.

I know I want a power meter. Thinking pedals. And a new bike.

Hoping I can get to a better level without spending over $2,000.

And I know right now is a horrible time to try to buy a bike, but I want to decide now so I can at least get into the queue. I also plan on going to some bike shops in the area, but I figured I'd launch a trial balloon here.

Thanks in advance.

A new bike like you're describing, or how I'm interpreting, will be tough for $2,000, IMO.

A power meter alone will be $300+, add pedals, and other random accessories like bottle cages, your budget for the bike is under $1,500.

That budget is 100% doable for a good alloy frame bike. But there's a decent chance you'll want to upgrade to carbon if you continue getting more serious, like you're describing. Again, carbon isn't necessary, and there are a bunch of people riding on alloy bikes that can kick my ass, but it's the next step up.

If you're set on a new bike, research the stores near you to see who's a dealer for each brand, then just go talk to them and hopefully they'll have something for you to ride. If shimano, I'd set the lower limit at 105's, I'm not as familiar with sram.

I'd normally say find a good used one, but the used market is stupid right now.

Does anyone have thoughts on Bikes Direct? I just started to understand that the components are just as important as the frame and the frame manufacturer doesn't matter as much.

They have crazy cheap prices and actually have some in stock.

I've looked at bikes direct over the years, and even briefly looked at them when I bought my mountain bike a couple months ago. After doing a lot of research, I ended up going with a Polygon, which is a direct to consumer brand. BD tend to have older geometry/technology built into their frames.

I've been super happy with the Polygon. They have road bikes too. There are a crapload of direct to consumer brands now that are much cheaper than Trek/Cannondale/etc, but have quality frames and components. I'd look at those over BD. They will be a little higher than bikes direct, but i think the value is better.

forgot to mention, I bought through Bikesonline.com I ordered on a wednesday afternoon and had the bike on saturday. It was partially assembled. I just had to mount the handlebars, seat, pedals, and put the wheels on. Everything else was done.

Polygon's direct website is sold out of almost everything.

AggieOO said:

---

forgot to mention, I bought through Bikesonline.com I ordered on a wednesday afternoon and had the bike on saturday. It was partially assembled. I just had to mount the handlebars, seat, pedals, and put the wheels on. Everything else was done.

Polygon's direct website is sold out of almost everything.

---

Thanks for the info. I have an old Specialized Hardrock MTB (10+ years) that I was thinking about putting a new transmission on. Given the age of the frame, it turns out I am pretty limited, so I started looking at new bikes. Terrible timing for sure. I was wanting to replace with a newer Specialized, but of course all of their lower-end bikes are sold out everyone. Shops I have talked to say they won't have anything until the end to the year at the earlies. I have never heard of Polygon but initial glance, they may be something to consider.

Do some googling. Only negative feedback i saw was that the wheels weren't bombproof if you were going to be riding it HARD (jumps, gap jumps, serious downhill, etc). They seem to go out of true more than a name brand set if you are riding them rough. For most of us casual type riders, they seem fine. I spent several days poring over reviews of bikes, and then a good chunk of time specifically on the Paragon line. They seem to be pretty legit, and the value for what you pay is really good. I'm a fan so far.

ATM9000 said:

---

wealeat09 said:

---

I'm basically a cycling noob. I've had a single speed Retrospec Harper for a few years, but haven't done much more than the occasional workout mixed in with come light commuting.

It's a super cheap bike but I've started to put in some mileage on it in the last few months and I've started to look at spending some money to get something that would allow me to do routes with more elevation gain. Obviously a single speed is a killer on hills.

I've been averaging about 15 mph on my single speed with about 500 feet of gain over 10 miles or so, which I feel like is pretty solid. I really just want to get faster (I already have) and be able to cover more mileage in a shorter amount of time.

Anyway, I wanted to give some background before I asked what should my next steps be? I'm averaging well over 50 miles a week and want to do much more.

I'm in East Dallas, so I do the White Rock look often. I've thought about a gravel bike so I could do the Trinity Levee and expand my riding options but I'm keeping my options open.

I know I want a power meter. Thinking pedals. And a new bike.

Hoping I can get to a better level without spending over $2,000.

And I know right now is a horrible time to try to buy a bike, but I want to decide now so I can at least get into the queue. I also plan on going to some bike shops in the area, but I figured I'd launch a trial balloon here.

Thanks in advance.

---

Have really gotten into biking the last year or so.

If you are getting into improved speed and endurance, I'm not sure why you'd put much emphasis on a power meter at this point and not put your money into just getting something with a carbon frame and a higher grade drivetrain.

When I upgraded to a carbon frame from alloy and got a better drivetrain, I got both faster and was able to maintain speed longer by I'd say 20-25% on average overnight. Power meter will help you track it, but it is not going to improve any of your numbers. Go get a power meter later if you are trying to become an elite cyclist or something.

---

Can't say I 100% agree. Yes, the power meter will help track, but that's the point. You can track your power, dial in workouts, and get faster. Just having a power meter won't make you faster, but if you use it correctly, it will absolutely make you faster over time.

He'll get an automatic speed boost, by upgrading the bike and components. Let's say its 20% overnight. That's great, but it'll stay at 20% without doing something else. If the overall goal is to continue to ride faster/longer, then the power meter is a fantastic tool.

A power meter is great, if you use it. But just starting out, a heart rate monitor is a lot cheaper and similarly effective to a point.

Can't disagree there.

SteveA said:

---

A power meter is great, if you use it. But just starting out, a heart rate monitor is a lot cheaper and similarly effective to a point.

---

This. Use as much of your budget on the bike and then add the bells and whistles later.

I got a good deal on a new carbon road bike (Cannondale) for ~$1800 + tax last year with 105 components. It instantly increased my speed by 2 mph over my gravel bike. Fenix 5 + heart rate monitor is more than sufficient for tracking effort for me. Plus, I can use it when doing other activities vs. only being able to use the power meter on the bike at roughly the same cost.

AggieOO said:

---

Can't disagree there.

---

That sort of my point. Power meters are cool, but honestly, I don't see the point of spending on that vs. just a bike you'll be more comfortable on if you are operating in a $2k and under budget,

End of the day, if you have a power meter but a substandard train and components, you'll ultimately not spend the time and effort to get faster.

A heart rate monitor is plenty to just create good workout KPI's.

Then we agree. Your previous post read to me as a power meter wasn't going to help him get faster.

Here is a question; I have a power meter built into my smart trainer. My training is based on power and not HR. I don't have an onboard power meter. Will I struggle finding my power in my half iron? When I FTP I am able to hit power but without the constant feedback I am worried that I won't feel the push to get to a certain output and therefore my pace may falter.

http://www.devinci.com/bikes/scategory_332?platform=Hatchet%20700x40C

My hubs is a dealer. Of course, everything is sold out this year. I'll hook you up with an Aggie discount if you can wait for the 2021s. Not tax to Texas as we are in Arkansas.

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/gravel-bikes/devinci-hatchet-carbon-grx-ltd-review/

Look at Pro's Closet. I'd get a used carbon bike and would probably go for a Specialized Dyverge or an Allied All Road/Able that is built for gravel but don't give up much if you threw some skinny tires on it and headed for the road.

I simply want a power meter to compare output on different types of rides.

Already have a Whoop strap on the way as far as a heart rate monitor, but I still think a power meter could be very useful.

If I'm being honest, I just want one.

This thread has already helped a ton. I'm now looking at drivetrains instead of brands specifically.

Ragoo said:

---

Here is a question; I have a power meter built into my smart trainer. My training is based on power and not HR. I don't have an onboard power meter. Will I struggle finding my power in my half iron? When I FTP I am able to hit power but without the constant feedback I am worried that I won't feel the push to get to a certain output and therefore my pace may falter.

---

Start paying attention to your heart rate at various power output levels and durations. Read up on cardiac drift. You should be able to set a target HR that will get you close to your power goal for different phases of the ride. Correct for headwind/temperature as needed on ride day.

I think I have a Powertap Power meter but its on a road bike wheel.

I have a ton of stuff I need to get rid of from my triathlon days, I am in Sachse if you would like to take an inventory and I can make you a good deal since most has been sitting for a while.

wealeat09 said:

---

I simply want a power meter to compare output on different types of rides.

Already have a Whoop strap on the way as far as a heart rate monitor, but I still think a power meter could be very useful.

If I'm being honest, I just want one.

This thread has already helped a ton. I'm now looking at drivetrains instead of brands specifically.

---

A power meter is the single best tool there is for improvement. I highly recommend one because it eliminates many of the variables that affect heart rate.

Heart rate is influenced by sleep, hydration, humidity, temperature, altitude, allergens, pollution, your ride the day before, spicy food, alcohol the night before, constipation, etc. If you do a time trial or interval one day at 165 bpm, and 170 a week later, what does that mean? Who knows, because the temperature could be higher, you could have gotten less sleep 2 nights before, you could be dehydrated, you could be constipated, etc.

A power meter turns cycling into being in a gym. If you do a TT at 230 watts one day, and at 240 the week later, you have absolutely improved your output, just as if you increased your max bench from 230 to 240.

Also, I would recommend an aluminum frame if you're looking at a gravel bike. Rocks get kicked up, crashes happen more often, etc. Carbon fiber his higher performance, but it is also more fragile.

P.U.T.U said:

---

I think I have a Powertap Power meter but its on a road bike wheel.

I have a ton of stuff I need to get rid of from my triathlon days, I am in Sachse if you would like to take an inventory and I can make you a good deal since most has been sitting for a while.

---

Let me know what you have. I'm neck deep in research on what I should get and nowhere closer to deciding.

TxsAggieFn said:

---

wealeat09 said:

---

I simply want a power meter to compare output on different types of rides.

Already have a Whoop strap on the way as far as a heart rate monitor, but I still think a power meter could be very useful.

If I'm being honest, I just want one.

This thread has already helped a ton. I'm now looking at drivetrains instead of brands specifically.

---

Also, I would recommend an aluminum frame if you're looking at a gravel bike. Rocks get kicked up, crashes happen more often, etc. Carbon fiber his higher performance, but it is also more fragile.

---

Exactly why I went aluminum for my mountain bike. Lots of loose rocks around austin. Was riding with a buddy a couple years ago when he kicked up a rock and cracked his carbon frame. I've been paranoid about carbon on a non road bike since.

Plus one on getting a gravel bike. I've had an all carbon road bike for a while, and I recently got a gravel bike. I got the Trek Checkpoint ALR 5, which is an aluminum frame with a carbon fork, Shimano 105s, and hydraulic disc brakes. I paid a bit to upgrade to tubeless tires, and my recollection was that I walked out right around your $2K figure. I absolutely love the versatility that it gives me. The only time I don't ride it now is when I am riding with my friends who are on road bikes. It's about 3 pounds heavier than my carbon road bike, and a lot of the rides I do in groups are really hilly and I just can't keep up with them on it. I feel a TON safer on this bike than my road bike as well, as I ride 40 mm knobby tires vs 28 mm on my road bike. To me it makes a huge difference. After a guy I have ridden with was killed a few months ago in a hit-and-run accident (the driver was caught and is in jail), I feel even better about the decision to be on my gravel bike. Good luck.
Trek Checkpoint ALR 5

Any recommendations for longer ride fueling? I've been taking gels, but I know some people add mixes to their drinks.

JoeOlson said:

---

Any recommendations for longer ride fueling? I've been taking gels, but I know some people add mixes to their drinks.

---

A buddy of mine who has a biking coach turned me on to this and I really like it.
Skratch Labs Hydration drink mix

JoeOlson said:

---

Any recommendations for longer ride fueling? I've been taking gels, but I know some people add mixes to their drinks.

---

I like tailwind or infinit. I've switched to infinit to customize it for more protein, calories, and electrolytes for Ironman training. I make a stronger mix of infinit, I'll do 2 scoops per hour, so for a 3 hour ride I'll have 6 scoops in a bottle and take a shot of it followed by water. Thats about as strong as i can stomach so will plan to swap bottles for longer rides. I also supplement my infinit with a honey stinger waffle every hour. The combo is probably a little overboard for just cycling, but like i said, trying to get my Ironman nutrition dialed in.

JoeOlson said:

---

Any recommendations for longer ride fueling? I've been taking gels, but I know some people add mixes to their drinks.

---

How long is longer? For a ride up to about 2 hours, 1-2 gels and a few bottles of electrolyte liquid and a bottle or two of water should be plenty. Beyond 2 hours, I would try to find something like stroop waffles, protein bars, or something easily portable that will give you a mix of carbs and protein without upsetting your stomach. My preference when riding in Texas is to separate my carbs from my hydration. When it is really hot, you don't want large quantities of sugar in your water. But if you are riding long, you still need to get the carbs/protein in there somehow. If you use something like Nuun for your hydration that is just water and electrolytes and then eat separately for your caloric needs, you can scale up the hydration volume when it gets hot without overloading yourself on carbs.

Where do you guys/gals ride your bike? Main roads outside of the neighborhood look dangerous for bikes.

lancevance said:

---

Where do you guys/gals ride your bike? Main roads outside of the neighborhood look dangerous for bikes.

---

I'm extremely lucky with my location in Dallas.

3 miles on a bike designated road in a residential to the shore of White Rock Lake. 2.5 miles to Katy Trail. Even closer to the Santa Fe trail.

But I also started riding as an adult right off of Capitol Hill in DC, so I got used to riding in traffic. The trails in Dallas are like cake compared to that.

Loom around your area for bike trails. You might be shocked at how many you find. (Or not) Tons of development of old rail lines into trails all over.

lancevance said:

---

Where do you guys/gals ride your bike? Main roads outside of the neighborhood look dangerous for bikes.

---

I live on the west side of Houston and we ride out toward Fulshear, Pattinson, San Felipe, Belleville, and other parts west.

Will do, I have a ton of stuff so let me go through it this weekend.