I've been approached by a sign company on behalf of a home builder to pay us to put a sign on our property to advertise the home builder for a new development nearby. It's 100% new development. What is a reasonable monthly lease amount for that? The amount I was offered seems paltry considering the prices of the homes they are going to be building but I also want to be reasonable with negotiation.

No sweat off your back either way. But if it's worthwhile to them, they should pay a reasonable amount. Come up with an amount that makes you feel comfortable about it being there. If the amount doesn't move the needle for you, then what's the point?

DR Horton offered me $1,200 / year, six months paid in advance. Auto renewal every 6 months. I declined.

How big of a sign are yall talking? Id be happy to get that for something like a 4x8. Billboard size, not so much.

8' wide, 10' above grade. Not exact, but similar to this sign.

Shouldn't you be asking for some of the builder's roofing business?

Not directly the same type of sign or location - but gives you a point of reference -
https://lonestarlogos.com/logos/

Jason_InfinityRoofer said:

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jpd301 said:

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Shouldn't you be asking for some of the builder's roofing business?

Not directly the same type of sign or location - but gives you a point of reference -
https://lonestarlogos.com/logos/

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That's a great idea, but, unfortunately, they can't afford my work and I can't afford to lower my quality to meet their price points. I can start another thread if you want to see some tear offs of builder homes. I'll show where they shortcut. If you want to see a list of why our installs are so different, I can do that, but didn't want to muddy the thread.

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I'd like to see it. Roofing is such a critical part of a structure, but I admit it's probably the part I know the least about. Would definitely benefit from some information. Here of the Home Improvement Board?

Aggiemike96 said:

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Jason_InfinityRoofer said:

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jpd301 said:

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Shouldn't you be asking for some of the builder's roofing business?

Not directly the same type of sign or location - but gives you a point of reference -
https://lonestarlogos.com/logos/

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That's a great idea, but, unfortunately, they can't afford my work and I can't afford to lower my quality to meet their price points. I can start another thread if you want to see some tear offs of builder homes. I'll show where they shortcut. If you want to see a list of why our installs are so different, I can do that, but didn't want to muddy the thread.

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I'd like to see it. Roofing is such a critical part of a structure, but I admit it's probably the part I know the least about. Would definitely benefit from some information. Here of the Home Improvement Board?

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I'll just put it here....

On My Installs:

One of the top three shingle brands
Mid level product or better model of shingle and accessories
Synthetic underlayment
Ice & Water shield in valleys
double I&W or Felt in low slopes
6 nails per shingle
5 year warranty
Crew of skilled laborers that only install shingles
100% nail line hits
Project manager onsite for final inspection and during install as needed

Builder grade installs:

Whatever shingle they can get in bulk that is discontinued, cheap, old, on sale, or whatever it takes
Base level accessories
15# Tar paper
Nothing in valleys, occasionally they will install valley metal
Low slopes - they toss down a single layer of tar paper. Not the way to do it.
4 nails per shingle (minimum required by manufacturer)
Unknown warranty
Crew of 4-5 guys to roof an entire street, generally the same guys that do framing, concrete, masonry, or landscaping to pick up a few extra bucks on a side gig
Low nails, exposed fasteners, poor install techniques, caulking may or may not be used
No inspection until it leaks

Not every builder grade roof is done poorly, but if it's an original roof, it's more often than not.

I don't make any attempt to compete with builder costs any more.

Now, a fair amount of my income is repair work on 5 year old 'new build' homes.

These days I don't really even compete with other roofers, be it builders or otherwise. My price is my price. I used to try to discount it and 'beat' the other guys but it is a disservice to my homeowner and it degrades the quality of my work. So, I don't do it any more. This is also why I focus a lot on the insurance restoration side. I don't have to count pennies there and I can max out a roof for a customer and never have to consider whether an unforeseen issue is going to blow the margin....it won't...I fix it right and move forward.

DR Horton:

This is an example I saw in a neighborhood I worked in a while back. I did about 20 houses in there and every single one had this exact same issue if the house was architecturally similar.

This area that we worked on is the roof of the porch. There is a second story above consisting of 3 slopes pouring water onto this porch roof. This was a 4/12 pitch, so double protection is not required. The original shingles couldn't shed the water quick enough, the tar paper held water, and eventually it rotted....a lot. The fix here required gutters up top, ice and water in specific areas, and synthetic underlayment, double layer. All of this decking was removed and replaced.

The pic with the red on it is showing the same house with cracks in the mortar and a lack of flashing. On this one, they used counterflashing and just caulked it against the stone. The builder should have used flashing, counter flashing, and cut a kerf into the stone to properly press the counter flashing into to provide a water tight seal.

No drip edge was installed on any of these homes. This is something I have to install and will install, regardless of cost. It is required.




Most other things I see are missing crickets behind chimneys, chimneys and penetrations in valleys, no double felt on low slopes, missing valley liner or metal, missing drip edge, all manner of missing flashings or step flashings, improper gas venting, random roof accessories thrown on exhaust products that are incorrect for the purpose - like an airhawk thrown over a gas vent, holes cut in decking that never recieved a vent, but the builder just shingled over a 1x1 hole, etc, etc.

These are things I have to fix when i tear off a roof.

Here is a 700,000 dollar custom home. Customer had a leak inside. It was from this mostly 'dead' valley. Too much water and not enough protection. We ice and water shielded this entire area and beefed up the flashing.



Another nice home..this wasn't too bad but the gutter install and valley setup above created rot. On this one, we replaced the decking and ice and water shielded the whole thing since it was a low slope.



It's truly like christmas when you tear off a roof. Sometimes everything is fine, and sometimes there are issues that have to be addressed.

Can I throw in a question too?

I know I'll soon be replacing a roof on my house, not because of any specific damage, but because it's getting toward its end-of-life.

I'm the original owner of my house and worked with the builder to choose the materials and systems used. The builder used what were called (at the time) 40-year shingles, and they have been great, but I'm now 30 years in.

How much extra would we be talking about by having your guys do it, over say the bids I'll get from the local guys for their 'typical' re-roofs?

If the locals tell me it's a $15K job, would yours be $20K? I realize that you don't have enough details to work with here, but I'm just trying to figure out the price differential, as I don't want to waste your time.

I'm pretty sure my insurance company won't be paying a dime toward this. Thanks.

Oh, almost forgot -- about the sign lease. I might do it if they paid enough and it was just a temporary lease with no renewals and guaranteed removal of the sign. I was approached years ago by a billboard company on some commercial property I own and there was no way I was going to sign that lease. It was peanuts and the auto-renewals and other terms were not anywhere to my liking. Of course, others' mileage may vary.