Good stuff OP! Nice work!

What is everyone's opinions on the shower wall that will be in the middle of the bathroom, which is the bench side. Should it be glass from bench up, or bench, then wall up to maybe 4', the glass, or wall all the way?

And is taking glass full height to ceiling common?

Pony wall up against the bench, tile inside and outside wall of it. Then glass surround and glass door.

MS08 said:

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Pony wall up against the bench, tile inside and outside wall of it. Then glass surround and glass door.

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+1 on pony wall, tiled inside and out. Pony wall height at 42". I would also pony wall on the vanity side.

Figure out exactly where you want the door. Centered or towardthe vanity. Make your pony walls extend to the door. Door should be sized to be able to swing out not just in.

Extending to the ceiling is a choice. It keeps the steam in but also can cause moisture issues.

Framing day 1.

They should be able to finish up monday.




A view from the corner where the closet will be.


A view of what the vanity will looks like in the space... 48" x 24". We decided we may do some floating shelves on that wall across from the vanity there. Something with a modern look.. have a few folded towels/washrags on the shelf.

Way to use those connections!

All done.. took 3 days, a bit longer than I figured. Yesterday he was doing ceiling and said the studs would be going under the iron beam, so ceiling is ~4" lower than that; I said why can't you go the other way parallel with beam to give max height? He said the studs aren't long enough lol.
I said, ok well let's get some longer ones here for today! About as easy a problem to fix as possible. Max ceiling was barely 7'-11", I was not willing to lower that to under 7'-7" to trade for a quicker finish.

Inspection tomorrow. Not too many hiccups, those guys are artists when they need to be.

I love the methods and ease in metal framing. Can't count how many times the framer would be up on scaffold and simply grab his snips on his belt to trim up pieces to fit, or to cutout in place for around HVAC/plumbing, etc. No going back to the saw for trimming, no sawdust, an no noise.

Coming together OP!

62strat said:

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...and no noise.

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Minus that whole shooting the bottom track part...

Aggietaco said:

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62strat said:

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...and no noise.

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Minus that whole shooting the bottom track part...

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That isn't exclusive to metal framing though.

And honestly, they used a battery powered, it wasn't loud at all. I bet the impact driver was louder.

chugging along, got my MEP and framing inspections today.. passed em all on the first go!

Next up insulation/draft stopping, another inspection, then time to close it up.









Electrical materials
Wire - $450
Breakers - $250
All the other stuff $150

Got a really friendly price on the plumbing and the fart fan, both with install.

Progress. Keep 'em coming!

Id double check the box fill on that electric box... That seems like a lot to get back in once wired up.

Caliber said:

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Id double check the box fill on that electric box... That seems like a lot to get back in once wired up.

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heh it's pretty full. I'll cut more slack off each switch hopefully that will do the trick.

Some insulation and drywall today.

6 weekends of camping and or travel = NO PROGRESS.

Finally camping trips are over, so got some movement. All dryway/texture is done.

Putting shower pan liner


Then the dry pack


Birds eye view from the chitter.


Shower floor done



Wall and floor tile should be done this week, then paint next week. THEN we will finally do a mass cleaning; it's an effen mess down there and I'm so tired of it being that way.

After paint and tile, it's just shower glass, hang the doors, get a vanity and finish up plumbing, then final electrical... seems the end is near?

Is there going to be any other water proof membrane put down or red guard to protect the seat and shower?

The blue stuff is aqua defense. Is that same as red guard? That's what my floor guy gave me anyway.

62strat said:

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The blue stuff is aqua defense. Is that same as red guard? That's what my floor guy gave me anyway.

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Looks like it. I've never heard of it before but looking at it online looks just like red guard. I didn't notice the color change but now can see it in the pics.

Looking good!

You have the rubber liner on the bottom, but how is the floor/wall intersection being waterproofed?

txag2008 said:

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Looking good!

You have the rubber liner on the bottom, but how is the floor/wall intersection being waterproofed?

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the rubber liner goes up behind the drywall about 12". Notice the cut like in drywall.
Then the rubber liner is also buried in the middle of the 'concrete' curb.

Moving along..

Just need final plumbing (a week from Monday) and glass and bathroom is all but done outside of a light fixture and toilet/towel bar.. oh yeh and door/trim

I'm realizing now how nice a level floor is. Our vanity is out about 1/2" over the 42". Here in the pic I have it propped up on left side, but then you see the floor/vanity gap grow. Thinking about putting a new kick plate on there that matches color and scribe it to hide that gap.
Otherwise, if left unlevel you see the tile grout line and backsplash get off, which would look way worse than as is.

It's always something.

Man bathrooms get pricey quick.
Tile - $2k material only
Glass - quoted at $2k
Vanity/toilet + faucet&shower fixture - $1200







Man that triple box in the bathroom was a bear. That took me like 2 hours lol.

Looks great - nice job!

Bathroom finally substantially complete. My glass and tile guys really did fantastic work.

Up to me to finish what's left; base and door trim, paint the door white, then mount the tp & towel bars









Phase II of basement will be next summer.

In the end, I diy'd;
underground plumbing (not the concrete cut/demo/repatch)
hung the doors
base/door trim
electrical final/trim

I hired out electrical rough in, glass and tile, and got a freebee for concrete, framing/drywall/paint and plumbing.

Total cost ~$10k, majority of it tile @ $4k and glass and electrical at ~$2k ea!