My next trip out to my cabin has me replacing at least two more exterior walls, which will involve a relocation of the main electrical supply line. The existing load center is right where the kitchenette is going to be, so I want to move it over below where the TV will be. It is currently 30A service.



The issue I have is that I still have to reroute a bunch of electrical and run new stuff, and I can't afford to do all of this without power (and AC), especially since I will have to stay in the cabin Memorial Day weekend instead of my RV. What I am considering is taking some 6 AWG wire and connecting it between the new load center and the old, fastening it to the studs with temporary cable ties. The goal is to maintain power as things get individually rerouted.

Other than "be careful around it," are there any other considerations I should take into account before making this temporary connection?

Not necessarily code, but I've done the same thing when moving large items around my wood shop. Just be careful

FWIW, you should see how temporary power is run around a lot of construction sites - often pretty sloppy.

Just a few that come to mind:
Give the run a little extra slack in case you have to move it while doing your work.
Don't run on the floor if there's enough slack to do so (both tripping hazard and damage to cable).
Do use a non-contact voltage tester since you're mixing new electrical with live circuits.
Make sure whatever breaker is feeding the temp cable still provides the right protection.

Are you the only one working on it? Maybe label it and throw on some high visibility tape? Definitely communicate and discuss what you're doing.

Yes, I am the only person who will be working on it, but even when it's just me, I lock out/tag out whatever I am working on, even if it's just tape with "NO!" written on it.

The main supply is on a breaker at the meter, but the jumper cable will not have a breaker between it and the box. I will use screw-mount cable clips to hold the wire in place. Hopefully I can get all of the electrical rerouted Memorial Day weekend.

Main breaker may be enough - especially as small as that panel is. What size is it?

BenTheGoodAg said:

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Main breaker may be enough - especially as small as that panel is. What size is it?

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100A 6/12 Square D Homeline.

How are you connecting at the old load center? Double lugging the incoming lugs?

Use a cable clamp or bushing to exit the old load center at a KO so you can keep the cover on it, instead of pinching it between the can and cover. You likely don't have the oomph upstream to sustain an arc flash but dirt, dust, and sweat no bueno in open stuff. I'd also run the cable up, over and back down to get it out of the way. Figure out where the permanent feeder will land in the new panel and use that KO for the temp.

UnderoosAg said:

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How are you connecting at the old load center? Double lugging the incoming lugs?

Use a cable clamp or bushing to exit the old load center at a KO so you can keep the cover on it, instead of pinching it between the can and cover. You likely don't have the oomph upstream to sustain an arc flash but dirt, dust, and sweat no bueno in open stuff. I'd also run the cable up, over and back down to get it out of the way. Figure out where the permanent feeder will land in the new panel and use that KO for the temp.

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I was planning to run the jumper cable into the old load center through the KO that was used for the feeder.

The feeder will be disconnected for the siding replacement, and reconnected to the new panel once the new siding is up. The new panel will be double lugged for the temporary connection. I only plan to have the temporary connection as long as it takes to get the lights and a handful of receptacles connected. The good thing is I can probably get that done within a day because the lights and receptacles I need all run from the side of the building to the right in the pic above. I just have to shorten the cable.

Ryan the Temp said:

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BenTheGoodAg said:

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Main breaker may be enough - especially as small as that panel is. What size is it?

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100A 6/12 Square D Homeline.

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Sorry meant the breaker size. I'd sure rather it be a 60A. If 100A main, it should still provide short-circuit protection if you hit the cable (which is the most likely hazard in this setup). Won't cover you for overloads, though. Doesn't sound like you'll be running a lot, but still pay attention to what you're running simultaneously, especially if it's heavier on one leg. Don't leave it running when you're not there.

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Sorry meant the breaker size. I'd sure rather it be a 60A. If 100A main, it should still provide short-circuit protection if you hit the cable (which is the most likely hazard in this setup). Won't cover you for overloads, though. Doesn't sound like you'll be running a lot, but still pay attention to what you're running simultaneously, especially if it's heavier on one leg. Don't leave it running when you're not there.

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I don't know the main breaker size down at the meter. There's only one leg that is energized. We have no idea why that is the case. At some point new cable will be run and I will have two 30A legs running to the cabin.

User name checks out.

Ah so. You're feeding the old from the new. Thought it was the other way around.

Ryan the Temp said:

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I don't know the main breaker size down at the meter. There's only one leg that is energized. We have no idea why that is the case. At some point new cable will be run and I will have two 30A legs running to the cabin.

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Climate change. Leaking electrons cause climate change, racism and toenail fungus.

Do you like the previous owner's beautiful work ?

BONZAIIIIIII!!!

I remember a time when you could walk into Home Depot and there'd be a display on the endcap of the Electrical aisle showing how to assemble a meter loop. I always wondered how many people that inspired to pick up a pair of pliers and give it a whirl. I mean, how hard can it be?

My parents bought a house in the 80s that was full of "half-assed handyman" work as my mom called it. Trash bags as vapor barriers, mixing aluminum and copper wire, missing conduit, etc. She had her own business doing minor construction and property maintenance/repair. According to her, there was a period in the late 80s and into the 90s that all the half assed work started breaking and she would have to fix it.

I'm convinced we're going to have that same issue in 10 years when the YouTube generations's work product starts catching fire.