I picked up some used woodworking tools from marketplace and Craigslist and I frankly don't know how to ensure they are in a working order. When I bought the band saw, the blade fell off when he started the machine up so I got a larger discount and I picked up a new blade. I am not clear how to I steal this blade specifically if all of my guides are in the right spot or not.

I also have a Grizzly Jointer that I feel keeps jointing under 90* and when I believe I squared it up it seems off again. Yes I am using a square but it appears just a bit off still.

Who would I call for support getting a second look at these items and helping me correct these little issues? I have a few large projects upcoming I want to be able to use these tools correctly.

There should be youtube videos out there about bandsaw and jointer setup/tuning I would think - probably best to start there. The bandsaw should be pretty easy I would think - as I recall you have tension and then the other adjustment to change the twist/plane of the wheels. Jointer...a lot of times its finding the closest to perfect settings as not all jointers will be machined perfectly - you'll need not just a square but a good long straight edge. The user manuals for your specific models should point you to the adjustment points or maybe find a video that has the same model if possible.

Agree on the YouTube videos by manufacturer.

If the blade fell off, it is probably worth replacing the tires before getting the blade aligned. Even if the tires aren't bad (which itself is often the cause of blades coming off), the blade breaking free would most likely damage the edge. And yes, there is usually a tension knob at the top (will drive a spring loaded screw usually at the top wheel) and another adjustment to get the wheels plumb. You can get a rough plumb check by holding a straight edge flat against the two wheels (may need to remove table)

For the jointer, consider calling Grizzly customer service. They have been freaking fantastic help to me, even virtually reading my mind over the phone. They will know the model number and its quirks

For the jointer, there are a few things to look at.

Make sure the tables and fence are all flat. Get a straight edge and lay it across each. Move it to cover the entire area at different angles to make sure that they're true. Use feeler gauges or a dial indicator for precision.

You also need to ensure your infeed and outfeed tables are parallel. Raise them above the cutter head and put a straight edge on the outfeed. Check for gaps in the infeed side with a dial indicator on the straight edge or feeler gauges. Do this across the surface of tables to make sure the planes are parallel and one side or end is not drooping on one table compared to the other.

Also check the blades on cutter head and ensure that all of them parallel to and level with the outfeed table. Lay a straight edge across the table and lower it until it makes contact with the cutter head/blade. With the machine unplugged, rotate the cutter head by hand to make sure your straight edge is exactly as the top of the cut. Use a dial indicator to check both sides of each blade to ensure they are all in line with the outfeed. Adjust the blades as necessary. You may need to look up a user manual for the procedure.

Once you know the tables and cutter head are good, check the fence and fine tune it to your square. Check it with feeler gauges. If it's tight to the square and still not producing 90* cuts, your square may be off. I use high precision machinist squares for setting my tools because the tolerances are super tight. A try square or combo square may be slightly off due to wear or, in the case of try squares with wooden bases, warpage and shrink/swell over time. Even digital angle finders are not super accurate. It's always good to remember that your tools are only as accurate as the tools you use to calibrate them, so never skimp there.

If you don't have machinist squares, flatten a face on a piece of hardwood and run it through a planer. Joint the edges on the jointer using the same face against the fence. Mark the face you used to joint the edges and rip the piece down the middle. Compare the jointed sides by laying both pieces on a flat surface and putting them together. They're should be no gaps. Flip one over and compare them again. There should still be no gap. If there is a gap, use the marked face to determine which direction your fence is out of square. Joint the edges again and go through the same process until you have no gaps.

I'm late to the thread, but have you checked if your square is square? If not, lay it on the edge of your workbench and dramamlinr up the leg, then flip it over, line it up at base on the line and draw another line. If you don't wind up with one single line of the same thickness, your square isn't square.

The guides on the bandsaw are the last things to adjust. Making sure your wheels are in the same plane and theres enough tension is the first step.

The other thing is choosing the right blade for the right task.

Jointers can be more difficult. If you can afford it, upgrading to a shelix cutter head is a massive improvement.