Washing machine is agitating but not spinning. Makes some noise while draining, but does drain. I checked the drain pump, and it's clear. I can be see some oil and some kind of black stuff near the motor couple to the transmission. I'm thinking it's the clutch, but do I need a new transmission too? I think this one may be in the way out based on the oil.

If it has water in it, it will detect and not spin. The lid switch will also stop spinning. The black stuff is typically either the remains of the coupler or clutch. I would open the chat on appliance parts pros and discuss with them. They typically hire retired appliance techs to staff their chats.

I had the same thing happen to both mine and my parents washers. The grease/oil that you see will cause the belt and pulleys to become slick. Once that happens, the belt slips when it calls for the fast spin. Take off the belt and clean it really well with soap to remove the grease. Then clean off the pulleys. I used brake cleaner on a paper towel. Put it back together and everything should work again.

There's no water in the inner tub after draining. There's a little bit left in the outer tub. I can hear the motor running with the lid closed on spin with no actual spinning.

It's also a direct drive, so there are no pulleys or belts.

Just gonna replace the clutch and see what happens. It's $18 on Amazon with a new motor coupling. If that isn't the issue, it's not a big loss.

It's the coupler. It's plastic and rubber and designed to break when it's under enough stress it could strip the transmission.

The black stuff is the disintegrated rubber.

And, the fact that it agitates but doesn't spin points to the coupler. The motor is running and making noise during the spin cycle because it's trying to turn the transmission, but the broken coupler is no longer connecting the two parts.

Won't it not agitate with a broken coupler?

ETA I could also spin the motor with the drain pump off and see the coupler moving with it.

ABATTBQ11 said:

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Won't it not agitate with a broken coupler?

ETA I could also spin the motor with the drain pump off and see the coupler moving with it.

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It takes less torque to agitate. So I think the broken coupler is engaging enough for that back and forth motion, but not enough to spin it at high speeds.

Well, it'll get fixed either way. I ordered a clutch and coupler together. I'll have to take the coupler off to do the clutch anyway.

Should I be concerned about the little bit of oil under the transmission? Any other way to tell if it's leaking?

ABATTBQ11 said:

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Well, it'll get fixed either way. I ordered a clutch and coupler together. I'll have to take the coupler off to do the clutch anyway.

Should I be concerned about the little bit of oil under the transmission? Any other way to tell if it's leaking?

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When you replace the coupler and clutch, I'd clean it up, then monitor it to see how badly it's leaking. Could be incidental amounts from the shaft, or could be a blown seal in the transmission.

Kudos and am wishing more asking questions posted The Results to help others in the same boat!

May I ask at least what Brand of washer this was & year made/bought?

It's a hand me down whirlpool. Built in 1996 per the serial number date code.