Home building thread

5,355 Views | 64 Replies | Last: 11 days ago by Aggiehomebuilder84
AgLA06
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mrmill3218 said:

I think ERVs are so cool. Would love one in my house one day.

They're pretty common in Europe and I can't understand why they aren't here.

And air exchange system and independent humidity system would seem highly advantageous compared to just AC these days.
RustyBoltz
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mrmill3218 said:

I think ERVs are so cool. Would love one in my house one day.

Me too. Researching building science is really scratching an itch lately and pushing me more toward trying to achieve a PHIUS rated home with our planned build.
sellthefarm
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Does anyone have an opinion on MI Windows?
mrmill3218
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Aggiehomebuilder84, where are you building your homes?
wmitchell
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sellthefarm said:

Does anyone have an opinion on MI Windows?


I'm in the window industry (Pella). If you're looking at builder grade vinyl windows, they are fine. Lots of options in that range
sellthefarm
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So when you say "Builder Grade" - does that mean we shouldn't be using them on a custom home? I'm seeing a lot of vinyl on customs. What material is the right material for a custom central Texas build?
Aggiehomebuilder84
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Central texas
Aggiehomebuilder84
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"Builder grade" is like "military grade"

Builder grade, in my mind, is associated with track homes and specs.

Windows, for example- mi is a builder grade window. Our base windows, for example, are Marvin. The performance is just better. The options are better. The consistency is better.
sellthefarm
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I guess I would love to hear some homebuilders opinions on what type of window to install in a custom home. We are talking "forever" type home.

The house will be stone and stucco exterior in central Texas, about 40 windows I think, mostly traditional window shapes/sizes (not a lot of huge windows or anything like that), pretty traditional style home
ktownag08
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We have thermally broken aluminum windows, sliders, and doors in our Houston custom home. Given the design of our home, they were an important architectural feature.

They're not the very top of the line, but they weren't cheap either. Glazing is 1" thick for better thermal and sound performance.
mtngoat3006
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I posted a thread a while back about plans to build an ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) home and received great responses. We are still doing research on ICF homes and hoping this thread will yield some similar results as we are about 2-3 years from starting our build in the Texas panhandle. I'm keeping lots of notes from insulated windows to kitchen appliance and everything in between. It's going to be an interesting process and hope it all comes together. Plan, plan, plan, and plan some more...
wmitchell
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sellthefarm said:

I guess I would love to hear some homebuilders opinions on what type of window to install in a custom home. We are talking "forever" type home.

The house will be stone and stucco exterior in central Texas, about 40 windows I think, mostly traditional window shapes/sizes (not a lot of huge windows or anything like that), pretty traditional style home


Sadly lots of customs use cheap windows. Most people prioritize appliances and interior finishes than windows.

If this is your forever home, I would look at Marvin, Pella and Andersen.

ktownag08
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I'd add Ram Windows (Tx based) to the list as well as Quartz Luxury Windows.
sellthefarm
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Any thoughts on window material? Do we stay away from vinyl or is it ok if using a higher end brand?
Red Pear Luke
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Sponsor
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One Question I have for this thread (great thread BTW) is....

What are some initial qualities and items to focus on when choosing a builder?

  • Does appearance matter when one drives up in a BMW vs a beat-up F250?
  • The timeliness and ease of communications?
  • How would you recommend going about choosing one? Or rather - what approach do the builders in this thread take when approaching new potential clients?
mrmill3218
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Any advice for someone entering the space that you haven't already shared?

How do you really get your start?
Aggiehomebuilder84
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Stay away from vinyl
Aggiehomebuilder84
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Red Pear Luke said:

One Question I have for this thread (great thread BTW) is....

What are some initial qualities and items to focus on when choosing a builder?

  • Does appearance matter when one drives up in a BMW vs a beat-up F250?
  • The timeliness and ease of communications?
  • How would you recommend going about choosing one? Or rather - what approach do the builders in this thread take when approaching new potential clients?



Some builders believe in the big shiny truck is a way to project how successful they are. We dont, but i dont really pre judge any builder for what they drive. We drive a bunch of older f250 and f350s.

Most of the time, the builder is just the manager. We're a little different in that my partners and I own the business and we also super the jobs. So I am not needing to hire out the super role or add in a other layer communication.

I think communication is the most important aspect of a good experience. What ways, how often, how available is the builder going to communicate with you?

The questions id ask when selecting a builder(the builder isnt necessarily obligated to answer all of them):

1. How long have you been building?
2. Have you ever been sued or been a participant in a lawsuit over one of your projects?
3. Have you filed for bankruptcy?
4. How long have you been with your subs? (I've been with most of mine for 20+ years). Youre not just hiring the builder, youre hiring his team. Length of time usually shows you that the builder and sub have a good relationship, the sub gets paid, and that quality issues have either been resolved or are rarer.
5. Are you open to amendments to the contract?
6. How do you handle change orders, both necessary ones and owner initiated ones?
7. Do you attend education functions?
8. Are you active in the building community? Are you on any professional leadership boards like hba, green building council, cbrc, air, etc.?
9. What happens if you, the builder, miss something on the plans?
10. How do you communicate with me?

Get references. Go to ongoing and completed projects.


If I were going to try and find one, id start with the hba and then follow that trail. Depending on where you are, there might be hundreds of members. Your designer or architect or real estate person will have established relationships and preferred builders they can refer you to.

Id also talk to friends or neighbors that have built in your neighborhood or city and see if their experience went well.

We're a small, family company so it would feel different coming to us and then visiting one of our more glossy competitors.

We do almost no marketing. Our budget is practically 0. 99.99% of oir projects have come via word of mouth or referral. We've also done quite a few architects homes which has helped. We just finished one that was next door to a previous project and the neighbor liked it so much we worked for them.

The other key is the architectural plan. A plan is the accountability partner for both you and the builder. The better the plan, the less questions their should be. A plan lacking detail leaves lots of room for interpretation, which likely leads to mismatched expectations or inaccurate pricing.


If youre designing a custom home/remodel, id definitely recommend to get a builder on. Oard during the design phase. We usually sign a consulting agreement to provide pricing and expertise as the plans are developed. This means your project is much more likely to fit your budget than be surprised at final bidding.


Aggiehomebuilder84
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Go to every hab, aia, bs and brews, or whatever event you can find and meet as many architects and designers as you can. Try and meet with them in their offices. Google stalk them all and learn what their good with- building science, modern, traditional, etc and then tell them how great they are.

I dont think you'll get a big custom home without having done one but if you can get in with an architect or two and start with their smaller stuff, that'd go a long way.

You've got building experience so start offering it out to family, friends and friends of friends. If you could get your foot in the door by offering a deal, then do it.
Aggiehomebuilder84
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mtngoat3006 said:

I posted a thread a while back about plans to build an ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) home and received great responses. We are still doing research on ICF homes and hoping this thread will yield some similar results as we are about 2-3 years from starting our build in the Texas panhandle. I'm keeping lots of notes from insulated windows to kitchen appliance and everything in between. It's going to be an interesting process and hope it all comes together. Plan, plan, plan, and plan some more...


We haven't got to do one yet. We got close with both ice and sips but they didn't go forward. Id be interested in running the costs of a icf house vs some of the other, non concrete high efficiency stuff. Concrete has just gotten so expensive
willas
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I've been looking into building a house soon, so I totally down for this thread. I've been talking to Meritage Homes about their energy-efficient designs. It's crazy how much thought goes into insulation, solar options, and smart home features these days. It definitely makes me rethink what "standard" really means in new builds.
ECC
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Is there a general consensus on best practices for WRB and insulation strategies for new construction? Let's assume climate Zone 2 (hot and humid).

This seems to be such a polarizing topic and so many variables that go into the equation (zip sheathing, full fluid applied, mechanically fastened house wrap, vented vs. non-vented attic or crawl space, etc).

Rigid exterior insulation, closed cell for the entire envelope (including roof deck) closed cell flash and fill the rest with Rockwool, fiberglass batts only…

There's massive potential for failure with any system if installed improperly so what's everyone's go-to? A good, better, best option? Most forgiving assembly that provides the best r-value, air and water management?
Aggiehomebuilder84
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ECC said:

Is there a general consensus on best practices for WRB and insulation strategies for new construction? Let's assume climate Zone 2 (hot and humid).

This seems to be such a polarizing topic and so many variables that go into the equation (zip sheathing, full fluid applied, mechanically fastened house wrap, vented vs. non-vented attic or crawl space, etc).

Rigid exterior insulation, closed cell for the entire envelope (including roof deck) closed cell flash and fill the rest with Rockwool, fiberglass batts only…

There's massive potential for failure with any system if installed improperly so what's everyone's go-to? A good, better, best option? Most forgiving assembly that provides the best r-value, air and water management?


That's a hell of a question and one that probably has a great variety of opinions.

Ill do my best to provide an answer but this gonna take multiple posts
SnowboardAg
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About to start a stud up renovation - moving out tomorrow actually. 6-8 month project, all selections and subs selected, just now to execution. Modified the TAB contract quite a bit - cost plus project. The whole process has been a lot more involved than I expected. Defining the scope is key - but won't really know what we're dealing with until walls are open. That's the only unknown. Ready to get all new electrical, hvac and insulation.

Really curious what I can do to control / remove dust if there's any suggestions - 1955 home - opening thing up a little.
dubi
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SnowboardAg said:

Really curious what I can do to control / remove dust if there's any suggestions - 1955 home - opening thing up a little.

We gutted two 1960's houses and it is a dusty mess.

You can tape up plastic to try and contain the dust in a particular room. We just cleaned up really well with the shop vac after each demo and worked to keep the house tidy every day.
JP76
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I know it's easier said then done but it is best to turn the HVAC off during any demo, Sheetrock, sanding and painting if spraying. On my projects if I know we will be sanding drywall that day, i will have the homeowner cool the house 5-8 degrees colder than normal before arriving so that it does not become a hotbox that day. Also clean up is crucial, a shop vac with a good hepa filter works wonders. You have to keep the job site clean or it just gets pulled all through the return air when the hvac runs. Also keep your hvac filters changed constantly and change it after any demo, sanding or spraying of paint. Don't skimp on filter quality, a decent filter will run at least $8-10.
Aggiehomebuilder84
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I think today the general consensus is probably the zip system is the better option to go with for most new home and remodel projects. It its the most dumb proof and they make a lot of complementary products that help complete the system. It's, imo, probably the system that is the most economical for what you get.


Liquid applied is probably the "best" but should only be used on homes that support it. The costs, at least the last time I priced it, was pretty high.

After thay would be tyvek commercial d wrap. This os a good product but really only as good as the installer. Trades tend to punch holes or cut the wrap and that degrades the system to some degree. We also use a Carlisle through wall flashing at the bottom plate when using this system. Again, as with most things, its good when done well but can be a real pita if done poorly.

A system I'll never use is thermo-ply. You'll see that on production houses. Its the cardboard sheathing product. I honestly dont know a ton about it, but, ive seen enough holes punched in it where id never put it on one of my houses.
Aggiehomebuilder84
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ECC said:

Is there a general consensus on best practices for WRB and insulation strategies for new construction? Let's assume climate Zone 2 (hot and humid).

This seems to be such a polarizing topic and so many variables that go into the equation (zip sheathing, full fluid applied, mechanically fastened house wrap, vented vs. non-vented attic or crawl space, etc).

Rigid exterior insulation, closed cell for the entire envelope (including roof deck) closed cell flash and fill the rest with Rockwool, fiberglass batts only…

There's massive potential for failure with any system if installed improperly so what's everyone's go-to? A good, better, best option? Most forgiving assembly that provides the best r-value, air and water management?


Insulation-

Best- seems to be a passive hosue. Really expensive but it gets you to the most efficient level you can.

Very good- insulation outside the stud and on top of the roof deck. Spray or rockwool in the cavity. Metal roof on top of runners. Siding on a rain screen. All windows have proper awnings to produce shade.

(Theres some other options here like double stud exterior walls or offset studs on a wide plate so you can fully break the thermal transfer

Good- open cell foam, any rigid insulation outside. Metal roof on runners, foam on underside of decking

Good- just foam the roof deck and foam or rockwool in walls

Okay- bibs

Cheapest- fiberglass in walls and on top of ceilings, vented attic
Aggiehomebuilder84
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If youre not living in it-

Tape up the ducts. We build temp walls to separate construction spaces from others and tape the joints.

Definitely do what previous poster said and do not run the ac during dusty stages. Add in air filters as needed. We usually change them every day if were doing a job where the ac has to be on(whether house is occupied or for conditioning purposes). We also have 2 5-ton units on trailers we we run instead in the homes if necessary.

Dust is a real pain in the ass and ive yet to solve it to my liking
Aggiehomebuilder84
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Conditioning of houses during construction-


Heres a topic for all you about to build or remodel. Imo, its absolutely vital to condition the house once the sheet rock is up and textured. Every stage after that will perform better in a conditioned space. And its more humidity control than temperature.

For example- if you install wood floors in an unconditioned space and complete the trim and paint- it gets conditioned to the ambient environment. Depending on local and time of year and slab condition, they all are probably used to a humid environment.

Then, you turn on the ac and immediately start drying the air. The Caulk will shrink. The floors are at risk of cupping. The trim can shrink and you'll see cracks in the paint.

If you install the products in a space in an environment much closer to what it will be, you lessen the risk of having issues.
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