Recessed Lighting Spacing

853 Views | 17 Replies | Last: 2 days ago by PabloSerna
AggieFactor
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AG
Replacing the wood paneling in the family room which also means getting rid of the light box and going with recessed light. The current fan is off center between the beams by 2". Would y'all continue to install lighting centered or in line with the fan? Trying my hardest to not cut a large hole in the ceiling and build a frame to center the fan.


BenTheGoodAg
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AG
Personally, it'd bother me if the centerline of my fan and lights were off by a couple of inches. Especially if I was the one who did it. I'm way more critical of the details on work that I did. It's hard to say if the 2" offset for lights and fan would look "off" in your pics, but I'm guessing you'll always notice it.
Quote:

Trying my hardest to not cut a large hole in the ceiling and build a frame to center the fan.

Have you considered an old work ceiling fan box (Example - Lowe's)? No need to re-frame - all you cut is the hole for the fitting.
Ryan the Temp
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AG
I would space the recessed based on the room, not the fan, especially if they are going to be near the walls because it will make them not being centered in the room more noticeable.
AggieFactor
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AG
So the fan is off 9" the other direction so will definitely be getting the old work ceiling fan box that mounts to the bottom of the joist.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-1-2-in-Deep-5-9-cu-in-Metallic-Ceiling-Fan-Light-Fixture-Pancake-Box-for-Old-New-Work-CMB50/205383205

Next question is do y'all space lights per the room or the ceiling? The bottom row of lights is going to be centered with the door opening which makes it 31.5" from the wall, which translates to 32" on the slanted ceiling. Because of the way the top of the slant starts away from the wall, 31.5" from the wall results in 28" from the top of the ceiling. But 32" from the top of the ceiling results in 35.5" from the vertical wall of the room.

Beckdiesel03
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AG
My electrician said not to extend our can lights into the area with a fan bc of strobing effect. He also recommended the amount of cans to replace the box light. I realize this isn't a help but that's why sometimes I let the guys that do this daily decide.
Jason_Roofer
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Might be a reason the fan is off as it is. Anyway, I'd center lights as needed with the room. Don't put them near the fans u less you have enough to mitigate strobing. Otherwise, the more the merrier on lights. I like tons of light to see tasks.
JP76
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AggieFactor said:

So the fan is off 9" the other direction so will definitely be getting the old work ceiling fan box that mounts to the bottom of the joist.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-in-Round-1-2-in-Deep-5-9-cu-in-Metallic-Ceiling-Fan-Light-Fixture-Pancake-Box-for-Old-New-Work-CMB50/205383205

Next question is do y'all space lights per the room or the ceiling? The bottom row of lights is going to be centered with the door opening which makes it 31.5" from the wall, which translates to 32" on the slanted ceiling. Because of the way the top of the slant starts away from the wall, 31.5" from the wall results in 28" from the top of the ceiling. But 32" from the top of the ceiling results in 35.5" from the vertical wall of the room.




That 2x6 header needs 2x4 blocks above it on the left and right side while you have the drywall off.
TexAg1987
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I would remove the faux beams.

With as much drywall work you are doing in the room, open up the ceiling and frame it the way you want it.
JP76
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I agree with this. The faux beams really date the house to the 70's/80's.

I have done this on 2 remodels and it really modernizes the room.

The trick with removing them is getting the texture right and not making it jump out due to length of the patch.
tgivaughn
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AG
Strobing and symmetry and OMG concerns w/o lighting specs that calculate flood angles o many, then spacing results + lumens required calculated .... OMG whose driving this car?

If too complicated, consider sconce UP lighting and if not wall cavity accessible
then torch floor up lighting that doesn't strobe if close to fan .. if not the revoved option.

A fan light kit can help but me not a fan of most of these old school creations


https://www.kohls.com/product/prd-4765946/brightech-skylite-led-high-lumen-uplight-torchiere-standing-floor-lamp-black.jsp
Gotta draw since me got no grammar
MS08
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AG
The fan and the downrod & ceiling escutcheon are all mismatched. If you are doing work in this room already, tidy everything up: alignment of lights, ceiling fan, etc. And get a new fan without a light kit. Minka Aire Roto 52" fan or a similar style one from Hunter 52". You won't regret doing re working the alignment of lights, fan, and fan type (no light kit). But, I think you will regret not doing those things.
AggieFactor
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AG
I haven't removed the fan for a couple reasons. First, the replacement I ordered has not been delivered yet. It's a 52" all matte black with no light kit by Brezzary Maloney from HD. Second, is I had my electrician scheduled for today but had to push back until tomorrow morning. Opening the walls led to discovering 5 wire splices. Part of this wire mess looks to be connected to the light kit from the fan that is currently installed.

As far as the faux beams go, they are staying. I'm building 6Hx8W White Oak box beams to replace the lackluster ones that were there before. These will match the built I'm going to build when I redo the fireplace wall. I'll upload some more photos in the morning when I get back on my laptop.
JP76
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If you are putting faux beams back could you just adjust/shift them to make the fan centered in the opening ?
AggieFactor
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AG
All current beam spacing is right where I would want them so just using an old work ceiling fan box is the much easier option.
AggieFactor
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AG
Here's all the electrical fun. Two 8 AWG, a 12 AWG, and two 14 AWG. And yes, I am adding insulation in the attic space where I can while the wall is open. It's all temporary because our unit is near the end of its lifespan so all the ductwork and attic insulation is being redone in the next couple years.



dudeabides
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AG
Whoa. What a wiring nightmare! I have heard that some of cloth-weave covered wiring from the 60's was treated with asbestos (for fire-prevention purposes). Hopefully, this is not the case here.
BenTheGoodAg
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AG
Those pics belong in the shoddy workmanship thread!
PabloSerna
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AG
3 levels of lighting. Good rule of thumb.
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