Just looking for other perspectives on a flooring installation in case there's anything I'm overlooking. I'm almost ready to install the flooring in my cabin. I'm putting down 7"x48" LVP click-lock planks with attached underlayment. It's going in over OSB subfloor.

There is one section of subfloor that was replaced and is about 1/16" higher than the rest, so I'll get after that with some 50-grit to smooth out the edges to make it less pronounced and take stress off the joints. The rest of the original floor has adhesive residue from the self-adhesive vinyl tiles that were on it before, so that will also have to be sanded off. I'm considering adding a 6-mil vapor barrier, but I don't know that it's really necessary with the attached underlayment.

The cabin is 12x16. I might consider installing the planks parallel to the 12' side to lend the illusion of it being wider, but going parallel to the 16' side means fewer cuts.

Any thoughts? Things I'm overlooking? Things you'd do differently?

It's kind of fun to install. Definitely good to take into account the leveling of the subfloor.

I also have the planks with the backer on them, so I didn't add anything else underneath them. For most of the house I just ran it directly on top of the old very crappy sheet vinyl. In the rooms, I had to rip out old carpet and I placed the LVP directly on the subfloor. The flooring has worked just fine in both instances, but there are definitely spots where I could have done better at with making sure the subfloor was level. I put transitions between the rooms and the common area flooring, but you don't need to worry about that!

You might also do a spot check on the dimensions. Is it truly 12'x16' when measured in multiple spots? Or does it range 11 7/8 - 12 1/4 x 15 3/4 - 16 1/2? I had some unparalleled walls when doing mine, so in spots the flooring underneath the molding runs almost all the way to the wall and in others it ends right at the molding.

For only one room I wouldn't worry too much about limiting the cuts. The LVP is super easy to work with in trimming.

Do you just have one door to the room?

The entire building is just one room. The exterior dimensions are 12x16.

Yea I knew it was just 1 room I was more just curious if there was more than 1 way in and out. I was going to say be mindful of the transition area(s). I've got reducer strips to cover the ends at the transitions and if I could do it over again I would choose a different way to do my transition. I should have done a transition cover that did not step it down at all.

Chipotlemonger said:

---

Yea I knew it was just 1 room I was more just curious if there was more than 1 way in and out. I was going to say be mindful of the transition area(s). I've got reducer strips to cover the ends at the transitions and if I could do it over again I would choose a different way to do my transition. I should have done a transition cover that did not step it down at all.

---

There is an inswing door and sliding glass doors. I will most likely install a threshold transition at each, since there would not be wall trim over the edge of the planks.

Ryan the Temp said:

---

Chipotlemonger said:

---

Yea I knew it was just 1 room I was more just curious if there was more than 1 way in and out. I was going to say be mindful of the transition area(s). I've got reducer strips to cover the ends at the transitions and if I could do it over again I would choose a different way to do my transition. I should have done a transition cover that did not step it down at all.

---

There is an inswing door and sliding glass doors. I will most likely install a threshold transition at each, since there would not be wall trim over the edge of the planks.

---

Right, just get a good look at your options beforehand if you care about aesthetics and functionality. My thresholds have this weird dust trap crack between them and the door frames that I do not care for.

I'm going to build my own out of some 1x4 white oak I have lying around.