jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Before replacing the alternator, I would replace the voltage regulator. It is usually in the fender and looks like this. These are cheaper than a new alternator, and I have been told they stop working when a Ford sits for years like yours has been doing. This should cost you about $20. Fords of that era are externally regulated, while the GM is internally regulated. If replacing this doesn't work, then replace the alternator.

Yes, change the oil.

If you get frustrated troubleshooting the factory gauges, you will not be the first person to spend $30 to buy a cluster of gauges to use in their place (oil, water, volts). Your local parts house should have a set.


Can you get it into gear when the engine is off?

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Are all voltage regulators created equal? Should I go with a cheap ($10) Amazon version or the one at the Auto Parts Store ($38)?

I may take that advice and just buy a cheap set of gauges for now because I'm trying to put off digging into the dash for as long as possible. Of course, I'll have to research how to connect it.

I can't tell if its getting into gear or not when the engine is off, but it doesn't feel any different from when the engine is on. The gear shifter moves but it just feels all gummed up - like if you were trying to stir a bucket of tar. Makes it hard to feel if it is getting into the correct position.

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You may not want to do it now, but if you get it on the road, Dakota Digital makes a few different options for gauges in a '68.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1260/mode=prod/prd1260.htm

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Are all voltage regulators created equal? Should I go with a cheap ($10) Amazon version or the one at the Auto Parts Store ($38)?

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I try not to buy too many parts from Amazon for a lot of reasons. I looked at what is available at O'Reilly's (the $38 and the $45 one), and even those had some questionable reviews. In this case I would probably get the AC Delco one from RockAuto.

The voltage regulator is on the passenger side radiator support. One plug, two bolts IIRC

Burdizzo said:

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I hope this doesn't sound like a pointed question, but are you familiar with the three-speed column shift pattern? The only reason I ask is because I try not to make assumptions on what people know (or don't now), especially on vehicles this age.



Have you run it through the pattern with the engine off?

Here is a webpage that talks about rebuilding. I am not suggesting you rebuild it. There is probably nothing wrong with it other than it has been sitting a while and the grease is dried up.

https://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm

I wold look for this on the steering column in the engine bay and shoot some lubricant on it to see if that helps it feel less sticky.



You may also crawl under the truck and work the linkage back to the transmission and make sure nothing is binding.

Like an old person, it is probably stiff from sitting for so long.


I would also exercise that clutch pedal and linkage to make sure it is not bound up, including doing it while the engine is running.

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Yes, I'm familiar with the shift pattern. It feels like I'm finding R and 1; 2 and 3 are less obvious. But it won't actually move in any of the positions, so I don't know if I'm actually finding them or not. I soaked all of the linkage with PB Blaster, and I've worked the clutch and shifter quite a bit, but still haven't had success. I haven't crawled under it yet, but I will be soon to change the oil I'll try to work the linkage when I do that. Its not super easy to crawl under it when its not on a flat surface and I can't pull it up on ramps. When you say "work the linkage back to the transmission," I assume you mean use my hands to see if I can get movement. Correct?

EskimoJoe said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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Before replacing the alternator, I would replace the voltage regulator. It is usually in the fender and looks like this. These are cheaper than a new alternator, and I have been told they stop working when a Ford sits for years like yours has been doing. This should cost you about $20. Fords of that era are externally regulated, while the GM is internally regulated. If replacing this doesn't work, then replace the alternator.

Yes, change the oil.

If you get frustrated troubleshooting the factory gauges, you will not be the first person to spend $30 to buy a cluster of gauges to use in their place (oil, water, volts). Your local parts house should have a set.


Can you get it into gear when the engine is off?

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Are all voltage regulators created equal? Should I go with a cheap ($10) Amazon version or the one at the Auto Parts Store ($38)?

I may take that advice and just buy a cheap set of gauges for now because I'm trying to put off digging into the dash for as long as possible. Of course, I'll have to research how to connect it.

I can't tell if its getting into gear or not when the engine is off, but it doesn't feel any different from when the engine is on. The gear shifter moves but it just feels all gummed up - like if you were trying to stir a bucket of tar. Makes it hard to feel if it is getting into the correct position.

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You may not want to do it now, but if you get it on the road, Dakota Digital makes a few different options for gauges in a '68.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1260/mode=prod/prd1260.htm

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I've seen their stuff. I definitely think I'll be using them whenever I get to that point. Feels premature right now though.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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I hope this doesn't sound like a pointed question, but are you familiar with the three-speed column shift pattern? The only reason I ask is because I try not to make assumptions on what people know (or don't now), especially on vehicles this age.



Have you run it through the pattern with the engine off?

Here is a webpage that talks about rebuilding. I am not suggesting you rebuild it. There is probably nothing wrong with it other than it has been sitting a while and the grease is dried up.

https://www.fordification.com/tech/3spd-column_01.htm

I wold look for this on the steering column in the engine bay and shoot some lubricant on it to see if that helps it feel less sticky.



You may also crawl under the truck and work the linkage back to the transmission and make sure nothing is binding.

Like an old person, it is probably stiff from sitting for so long.


I would also exercise that clutch pedal and linkage to make sure it is not bound up, including doing it while the engine is running.

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Yes, I'm familiar with the shift pattern. It feels like I'm finding R and 1; 2 and 3 are less obvious. But it won't actually move in any of the positions, so I don't know if I'm actually finding them or not. I soaked all of the linkage with PB Blaster, and I've worked the clutch and shifter quite a bit, but still haven't had success. I haven't crawled under it yet, but I will be soon to change the oil I'll try to work the linkage when I do that. Its not super easy to crawl under it when its not on a flat surface and I can't pull it up on ramps. When you say "work the linkage back to the transmission," I assume you mean use my hands to see if I can get movement. Correct?

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Yes. Where you sprayed the PB Blaster, there should be two rods that connect under the cab to the levers on the left side of the transmission. Moving the shifter in the cab moves those rods forward/backward which in turn pushes the levers forward/backward on the transmission and determines which gear you are in.

I would see if you can move those levers on the transmission by hand. As I said, they may be stiff from sitting so long, so don't loose hope if you can't move them. They probably just need to be exercised. You may also try rocking the truck back and forth while applying pressure. Unless there was something catastrophic, there is usually not that much that breaks on those.

If you can't reach under there then it may be time to move that truck over to the driveway.

OK... I got the oil changed. While I was under it, I checked the linkage. Couldn't really move it much by hand, but I had my wife shift from R to ! while I filmed. Here's the video. Is there supposed to be more movement than that?

This video is of a GM 3-speed and a guy installing a floor shifter, but the principal is the same. Fast forward to about 22:00 into the video where he shows you how the rods and levers only move one at a time





Both levers should not be moving at the same time, so something is going wrong in your video. I suspect it is one of two things. 1) Either your wife was not pulling the shifter back toward the steering wheel while she tried to move up/down between R and 1, or 2) those two arms that you hit with PB Blaster are seized/rusted together. If it is 2, then keep exercising and lubing them until they break free. Might even tap it gently with a hammer near where you lubed it.

Sweet!

Burdizzo said:

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This video is of a GM 3-speed and a guy installing a floor shifter, but the principal is the same. Fast forward to about 22:00 into the video where he shows you how the rods and levers only move one at a time





Both levers should not be moving at the same time, so something is going wrong in your video. I suspect it is one of two things. 1) Either your wife was not pulling the shifter back toward the steering wheel while she tried to move up/down between R and 1, or 2) those two arms that you hit with PB Blaster are seized/rusted together. If it is 2, then keep exercising and lubing them until they break free. Might even tap it gently with a hammer near where you lubed it.

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Take the shift arms loose from the ****** taking it out of the equation and then try to move the steering column lever thru the R,1,2,3 pattern. If they still move together your problem is in the column itself. Also while you have them loose from the ****** try to move the ****** bracketts by hand

I was able to find R and 1 today, but I can't seem to get the shifter to move to the "out" position to move it into 2 and 3. I can move the lever on the column by hand (although I'm not sure if it is moving as much as it should), but something is preventing it from switching over when I use the shifter.

Also, when installing the thermostat, I broke the housing. So I bought a replacement and put it on, but it was leaking water badly, so I tried to tighten it some more .... and broke the housing again!! It broke in the exact same way (see picture below). That corner is much thinner than the corner where the other screw goes. Is there a trick here to getting it tight enough to prevent leaks without breaking it?

jaborch99 said:

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I was able to find R and 1 today, but I can't seem to get the shifter to move to the "out" position to move it into 2 and 3. I can move the lever on the column by hand (although I'm not sure if it is moving as much as it should), but something is preventing it from switching over when I use the shifter.

Also, when installing the thermostat, I broke the housing. So I bought a replacement and put it on, but it was leaking water badly, so I tried to tighten it some more .... and broke the housing again!! It broke in the exact same way (see picture below). That corner is much thinner than the corner where the other screw goes. Is there a trick here to getting it tight enough to prevent leaks without breaking it?

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Did the housing come with a gasket? If so smear some permatex on both sides and then assemble or you can get some permatex high temp silicon sealer, put a bead around the housing mating surface, let it set five minutes or so then bolt it on, The silicon will fill in any depressions that may be in the mounting surface of the engine from rust etc

I don't think I have ever broken a thermostat housing.
1) Make sure the thermostat is in correctly and flat.
2) Tighten the bolts on the housing evenly as you go. If it looks or feels like something is binding up, back off and figure out why. And use permatex

As for your shifter, I don't know what all you have tried. Hard to tell without being there or knowing more history on the truck. I would be surprised it is actually broken. I suggest putting it in neutral, put some forward pressure on it, work it up and down, and see if it moves to the 2-3 gate. Keep exercising it.

Burdizzo said:

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I don't think I have ever broken a thermostat housing.
1) Make sure the thermostat is in correctly and flat.
2) Tighten the bolts on the housing evenly as you go. If it looks or feels like something is binding up, back off and figure out why. And use permatex

As for your shifter, I don't know what all you have tried. Hard to tell without being there or knowing more history on the truck. I would be surprised it is actually broken. I suggest putting it in neutral, put some forward pressure on it, work it up and down, and see if it moves to the 2-3 gate. Keep exercising it.

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Isn't there a spring loaded pin in the steering column housing that engages the R/1st gear control linkage to the trans when the shift lever is pulled forward toward the driver while in the neutral position and then releases and engages the 2nd/3rd linkage when returned to the neutral position and pushed toward the dash and up on the Ist to 2nd shift?

I don't know the inner working details of the column. Based on seeing the truck firsthand, I have a suspicion it is just stuck and needs a little encouragement to free itself .

The shifter was a simple solution that I just hadn't considered. The pin that holds the shifting lever to the steering column was only halfway in. I took the lever off, sprayed a bunch of PB Blaster into the steering column (based on a YouTube recommendation), and put thelever back on. Once the pin was all the way in, I found all 4 gears pretty easily.

I don't know why I'm having such trouble with the thermostat housing. Seems like it should be simple. I tightened it gently until it was "snug", but the water was just pouring out. I did order some Permatex, so maybe that will help it seal up better.

My current next steps:

• Replace thermostat housing
• Test/replace Voltage Regulator
• Test/replace Alternator
• Move truck to driveway and give it a good bath
• Start on the brake system

If you cannot get it to stop leaking, make sure you scrape the old gasket all the way down to the bare metal.

Oh, and share a picture of that rear window sticker with the group. Old Army.

jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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If you cannot get it to stop leaking, make sure you scrape the old gasket all the way down to the bare metal.

Oh, and share a picture of that rear window sticker with the group. Old Army.

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Any chance these stickers are still sold anywhere?

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May google search retro Texas Aggie decals and see what comes up. I was able to get some retro Texas Aggie Sarge ones a while back.

I got the thermostat installed finally. Still drips water out of the housing, but slow enough that I can let it run. That does raise one question - I used Permatex along with the normal gasket. Can I pull it off, add some more Permatex, and then put it back on. Or would I need to scrape all the Permatex off, get a new gasket and start over.

I put some water in the radiator and let it run for a while, but it ran out of gas. And now I can't get it to start again. Its been starting very easily ever since I finally got a spark, so I have no idea what might be going on. I haven't tried to spray some starter fluid in the carb. That may be all it takes. Any other ideas of how to troubleshoot this?

None of the gauges in the dash work, but now that the engine will run (at least, until today), I need to be able to monitor the oil pressure and temperature. So I think I might pull the gauge cluster off to see the connections. I have a new oil pressure sending unit if I need it, but I need to get the gauges to work first.

If I can get it to start up again, I would like to pull it onto the driveway and clean it up a bit this weekend. But now plans may have to change.
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EDIT: After letting it sit overnight, it started right back up this morning with no problem. Not sure what happened, but we're back to normal for now.

BurnetAggie99 said:

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jaborch99 said:

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Burdizzo said:

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If you cannot get it to stop leaking, make sure you scrape the old gasket all the way down to the bare metal.

Oh, and share a picture of that rear window sticker with the group. Old Army.

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Any chance these stickers are still sold anywhere?

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May google search retro Texas Aggie decals and see what comes up. I was able to get some retro Texas Aggie Sarge ones a while back.

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I've tried that. No luck. If all else fails, my daughter is a graphic designer, so I can get her to recreate it and find some place that can print it.

What you describe sounds like vapor lock. Vapor lock is when you have a hot spot in the fuel system where the fuel vaporizes in the line and causes a bubble. The liquid fuel can't move past the bubble, and it will act like it runs out of fuel. Let it sit for a while (the bubble cools off and condenses back to liquid), and it starts right up as if nothing is wrong. Usually it happens where the fuel line runs near an exhaust manifold or something else that is hot.

I don't remember where you had your temporary fuel lines, but you might look at where they sit. If it passes by anything hot, you should move it somewhere else or put something between the heat source and the fuel line. Once every thing is permanent, if this continues to be an issue they make some shielding for fuel lines that helps keep the heat off of them. Place them strategically.

This can go on your list of things to do, but I would focus on brakes like you said above.

Have you been able to move it yet?

Looking good!

Outstanding. It feels good to make progress, doesn't it?

All three of those are important. I would probably put a cheap gauge cluster in it and move on to brakes.

I had this problem with a 60s IH. If I ran the engine long enough to get it to temperature then shut it off it would not restart for maybe 30 minutes.

More than likely you need to advance your timing a hair. That solved it for me.

Since I'm about to move on to the brakes ... This truck does not have power brakes and has drums on all 4 wheels. Since I am going to the trouble of replacing all of the brakes and the master cylinder, would I be better off doing a front disc/power brake conversion? I know a lot of people opt for this as an upgrade, but I don't know if it is premature at this stage for me. Thoughts?

That is "safer". It's your money do what you want.

If you are going to just tool around the Hill Country with the 6-cylinder, the drum brakes will be just fine. If you are planning a Crown Vic front end swap, LS conversion, lowering, restomod, then think about power disc brakes.

Now that you have it running and moving around, now is probably a good time to start making a list of all the things you want to do to it, with a budget for each, and the then prioritizing each one.

I asked AI to help me prioritize upgrades. Here's its response. Agree? Disagree?

Quote:

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1. Suspension and Handling

• Why It's Top Priority: For a weekend cruiser/show truck, a smooth ride and sharp stance are king. The stock leaf-spring setup bounces like a rodeo bull and won't impress at car shows. Plus, Texas backroads deserve better handling.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Front Suspension: Bolt-on independent front suspension (IFS) kit (e.g., Fat Man Fabrication or Heidts). Keeps it simple, improves steering, and softens the ride.
  • Rear Suspension: Upgrade to a 4-link rear with coilovers (e.g., QA1 or Ridetech). Maintains the rear axle but adds control and comfort.
  • Lowering Kit: Drop 2-3 inches for that low, sleek lookpair with 17-inch classic wheels (e.g., Boyd Coddington Junkyard Dogs) and meaty tires for show appeal.
• Cost: $2,000-$3,500.
• Impact: Turns it into a head-turner that cruises like a dream, not a chore. Essential for weekend fun and show cred.

2. Brakes

• Why It's Critical: Stock drums (or even marginal front discs on later models) won't cut it for safe cruising or sudden stops in Texas traffic. A show truck needs reliability to match the shine.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Disc Brake Conversion: Front disc kit (e.g., Wilwood or SSBC) if not already there; consider rear discs for full stopping power.
  • Power Booster: Add a brake booster and modern master cylindercrucial for easy braking with bigger wheels.
  • Lines: Stainless steel lines for durability in the heat.
• Cost: $800-$1,200.
• Impact: Confident stops whether you're rolling to a car show or dodging a Longhorn on a backroad.

3. Air Conditioning (Texas Essential)

• Why It's a Must: Texas summers turn that cab into a blast furnaceunbearable for cruising, showing off, or daily driving. A/C isn't optional; it's survival.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Vintage Air System: Compact kit (e.g., SureFit) designed for classic F-100s. Fits under the dash, keeps the retro look, and blows cold.
  • Compressor Mount: Adapts to the 240 inline-six with a custom bracket (available from Vintage Air or aftermarket).
  • Cooling Support: Pair with an aluminum radiator and electric fan to handle the extra load (stock cooling won't keep up).
• Cost: $1,200-$1,800 (parts and install).
• Impact: Keeps you cool and sweat-free, whether idling at a show or stuck in Austin traffic. A daily driver game-changer.

4. Engine Reliability and Mild Performance

• Why It Matters: The 240 CID is perfect for a cruiser/show truckunique and reliablebut needs tweaks to stay cool and peppy in Texas without going overboard.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Cooling: Aluminum radiator and dual electric fans (mandatory with A/C and heat).
  • Carburetor: Swap the 1-barrel for a 2-barrel Holley (300-350 CFM) for a slight power bump (10-20 hp) and better response.
  • Ignition: Electronic ignition (e.g., PerTronix) for consistent starts and no maintenance.
  • Exhaust: Single exhaust with a header and mellow muffler (e.g., MagnaFlow)adds a subtle rumble without hot-rod noise.
• Cost: $800-$1,500.
• Impact: Keeps the inline-six purring reliably at 160-170 hp, enough for cruising and showing off, with no breakdowns in 100F heat.

5. Interior Comfort and Show Appeal

• Why It's Key: A weekend cruiser and show truck needs a cab that's comfy for drives and polished for onlookers. Daily driving in Texas ups the comfort ante.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Seats: Custom bench or buckets (e.g., TMI Products) in heat-friendly vinylretro style, modern support.
  • Sound Deadening: Dynamat on floor, doors, and firewallcuts heat and road noise (a Texas must).
  • Gauges: AutoMeter or Classic Instruments gauges in a custom clusteraccurate and eye-catching for shows.
  • Stereo: RetroSound Bluetooth unithidden modern tunes for cruising.
• Cost: $1,000-$2,000 (A/C already covers climate control).
• Impact: A cab that's cool, quiet, and show-readyperfect for a Saturday cruise or a daily haul.

6. Transmission (For Daily Driver Potential)

• Why It's Worth It: The stock 3-speed manual or C4 auto works for cruising, but an overdrive gear makes highway runs and daily driving less taxing on the 240.
• Upgrades:
  
  • Manual: Tremec T-5 5-speedoverdrive cuts RPMs at 60 mph (needs an adapter for the 240).
  • Automatic: Ford AODsmooth shifts and overdrive for efficiency.
• Cost: $1,500-$2,500.
• Impact: Relaxed cruising and better mileage if you go daily driver; skippable if it's purely a weekend toy.

Prioritization Rationale

• Suspension First: Sets the tone for a cruiser/show truckride and stance are everything.
• Brakes Second: Safety and confidence for any use case.
• A/C Third: Texas heat makes this non-negotiable for comfort and practicality.
• Engine Fourth: Reliability trumps power for your goalskeep the 240 alive and well.
• Interior Fifth: Polishes the experience for you and spectators.
• Transmission Last: Nice-to-have for daily driving, less critical for weekend/show use.

Ballpark Budget

• Core Upgrades (1-5): $5,800-$10,000.
• With Transmission: Add $1,500-$2,500.
• Texas Tip: Prioritize A/C and cooling earlydon't skimp here.

Show Truck Touches

• Paint/Wheels: Freshen the patina or go two-tone with period-correct colors (e.g., Wimbledon White and Rangoon Red). 17-inch chrome wheels seal the deal.
• Bed: Wood bed kit with stainless stripsclassic show flair.

This keeps your F-100 a laid-back, reliable cruiser with show-stopping style, ready for Texas heat and occasional daily duty. Want me to zoom in on any partlike A/C install details or show-specific mods? Let me know!

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Being able to downshift in a manual also helps with the brakes. That said, depending on cost,the upgrade would be nice. Always a good feeling to have stopping power.