1968 Firebird Build

8,340 Views | 67 Replies | Last: 2 mo ago by Corps_Ag12
Corps_Ag12
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Centerpole90 said:

camshaft.

Oh!

Yes, I voted the TS Chopacabra but Silvy suggested the Tick Stage 2 or 3 but I'm annoyed they never responded to my recommendation form message so he also told me to reach out to Cam Motion. They recommended their Titan 4 cam based on my set up.
Corps_Ag12
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txyaloo said:

Corps_Ag12 said:

92_Ag said:

Nice! Are you planning on running an electric fuel pump? I can't recall either if the '68 350 had the return line but I think it didn't?


Yes I am.

And you are correct, it does not have a return line so my regulator/filter will be adjacent to the tank at the back of the car with a single line running to the motor.

I'll be running a 255 LPH Walbro fuel pump. I'll have to run power back there though.
What ECM are you running?

Racetronix had a pretty good fuel pump harness when I did my swap a few years ago. Nice heavy gauge wire. Was ~$50 when I bought the kit.

I ended up going with a Vaporworx PWM fuel management controller since I'm running a blower. I'd consider going that route now if you do plan for a power adder later.

https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/returnx-return-type-pwm-controller/

Still undecided.

I'm looking at Howell (still need to call them), Holley Terminator X Max, and PCI Conversions

Holley seems to be the most plug & play but PCI includes a lot of the sensors you need, which Holley does not as far as I can tell.

I don't run around a car club here so as far as tuning a stock PCM, I'm SOL at the moment on finding a tuner which makes the Holley seem favorable since as I understand it, I can tell it my parameters and it'll adjust everything accordingly.
txyaloo
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Corps_Ag12 said:

txyaloo said:

Corps_Ag12 said:

92_Ag said:

Nice! Are you planning on running an electric fuel pump? I can't recall either if the '68 350 had the return line but I think it didn't?


Yes I am.

And you are correct, it does not have a return line so my regulator/filter will be adjacent to the tank at the back of the car with a single line running to the motor.

I'll be running a 255 LPH Walbro fuel pump. I'll have to run power back there though.
What ECM are you running?

Racetronix had a pretty good fuel pump harness when I did my swap a few years ago. Nice heavy gauge wire. Was ~$50 when I bought the kit.

I ended up going with a Vaporworx PWM fuel management controller since I'm running a blower. I'd consider going that route now if you do plan for a power adder later.

https://www.vaporworx.com/shop/product/returnx-return-type-pwm-controller/

Still undecided.

I'm looking at Howell (still need to call them), Holley Terminator X Max, and PCI Conversions

Holley seems to be the most plug & play but PCI includes a lot of the sensors you need, which Holley does not as far as I can tell.

I don't run around a car club here so as far as tuning a stock PCM, I'm SOL at the moment on finding a tuner which makes the Holley seem favorable since as I understand it, I can tell it my parameters and it'll adjust everything accordingly.
I'd choose terminator x max for a swap today. I self tuned when N/A using a factory 411 PCM and HP Tuners. It was just clunky with a steepish learning curve. I also didn't really like constantly ripping it on back roads to get data logs.

I have a megasquirt based system in my Bronco that does self-tuning similar to the Terminator. Much easier to get dialed in and the Terminator software looks much more up to date.
Blonde Coffee Beans
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Corps_Ag12 said:

Centerpole90 said:

camshaft.

Oh!

Yes, I voted the TS Chopacabra but Silvy suggested the Tick Stage 2 or 3 but I'm annoyed they never responded to my recommendation form message so he also told me to reach out to Cam Motion. They recommended their Titan 4 cam based on my set up.

I have the TS stage 3 in my LS swap. Sounds very nice
Chevy.Art
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Interesting.
Corps_Ag12
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No photos, just a quick update.

I've ordered the cam (Cam Motion Titan 4), ls2 intake, ls3 injectors (which i found out require spacers on an LS2 intake, also ordered), lifters, and still waiting on the fuel regulator to be delivered.

I have the gas tank assembled, but waiting on the fuel regulator before installing. Still need to run fuel pump control wire to the front for the Holley Terminator X Max i plan on ordering with the DBW pedal.

Still need to get the 4L60E deposit placed so they can build me a transmission as well as order the stall converter (Circle D 3200 stall per Silvy's rec).

My next task is to get the motor cleaned up so i can start re-assembling it, but I need to find time to get the heads from Silvy that I am going to use so I can rebuild them before paint. Anyone coming up from Houston to DFW any time soon?

Need to order throttle body, probably going with a 90 mm LS3 throttle body DBW.

Finally, missing a lot of bolts for bellhousing to motor, accessories, etc. Anyone know where i can buy a pack of factory bolts for all of this?
Corps_Ag12
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Moving even more slowly since my son was born in August.

  • Got the heads cleaned up & machined, cam motion dual springs installed
  • Titan 4 cam is installed
  • Lifters are soaking in oil currently, awaiting installation. Got a rod measuring tool so hopefully i can get those ordered soon.
  • New gas tank is ready to install, just need to mount the regulator to the frame rail and connect the lines
  • Got the correct injector spacers for the LS3 intake and the LS2 injectors but missing or lost one o ring so need to call BTR to get another one. Got all but one installed to the rail.
  • Found the fitting i needed to adapt the 6AN fuel line to the LS3 fuel rail.
  • Ordered a 3200 stall converter from Circle D, it's still in the box since I don't have a transmission yet.
Waiting on parts now, the half of my Rockauto order that was delivered today did not include the new oil pump or timing chain i needed to re-assemble the motor.

Still need controller, transmission, and install shift kit before motor can go in the car.
Silvy
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This build timeline is approaching Street Fighter levels of timeliness
Corps_Ag12
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Silvy said:

This build timeline is approaching Street Fighter levels of timeliness


Well if I don't have to wait 5 business days for you to respond to my questions it might go quicker
Corps_Ag12
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Quick update (I'll figure out photos later)

I've got the new cam, oil pump, timing chain, conversion pick up tube, conversion pan, cover, and pulley installed.



Intake is almost ready to go, had to get another o ring for the injector extension kit because I lost one. Luckily BTR was able to give me a part number so I got a 4 pack at AutoZone.

Ready to test fit the heads and measure for rod length and valve clearance so I can order new rods. Once I get those figured out I can permanently install the heads, rods, and rockers.

Still need to order throttle body, transmission, install shifter kit, install gas tank, run wiring, and order engine management system (probably Holley).

In other exciting news, when I was installing the lifter trays, I misread the torque spec as 106 ft/lbs instead of the actual 106 in/lbs. needless to say, I snapped the head of the first bolt clean off. After my initial panic, I was able to get the broken bolt out with an extractor kit from AutoZone. Ironically, I was texting Silvy about my fear of using a torque wrench (having never used one before), then minutes later snapped that bolt off.







Lesson learned to double and triple check torque specs.

That's all for now!
Corps_Ag12
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Bump for photos
TSJ
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It may be too late, but consider a ZF 8HP transmission.

Centerpole90
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Quote:

In other exciting news, when I was installing the lifter trays, I misread the torque spec as 106 ft/lbs instead of the actual 106 in/lbs. needless to say, I snapped the head of the first bolt clean off. After my initial panic, I was able to get the broken bolt out with an extractor kit from AutoZone. Ironically, I was texting Silvy about my fear of using a torque wrench (having never used one before), then minutes later snapped that bolt off.

I promise. I would not see any humor in that. None. Not funny at all. There is no way that I would think that it could be slightly amusing, given that it was a 'no serious or expensive harm done' deal. Not me. No way.

*I'm glad it wasn't expensive or permanent. Even if it is kinda funny. Because we all do it, or something like it.

BTW, when I was working on the catastrophic cummins I bought this torque wrench at Lowes, and it has been a good addition for fasteners in that torque range. When I see inch-lbs, it's my go-to.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-4-in-Drive-Click-Torque-Wrench/5001994751
Corps_Ag12
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It's been considered, but since I'm not changing the rear end right now (2.56), it's too much transmission for my application.

I'll be sticking with a 4L60E.
Corps_Ag12
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Yea that's the one I rented from Autozone. I have the big 1/2" drive one as well.

Now I double check torque specs and question it profusely if it doesn't make sense to me.
GrapevineAg
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Yep, definitely not the first person to mistakenly over-torque something. The lessons we learn the hard way are the ones that stick.
Corps_Ag12
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Got the gas tank installed yesterday, just need to mount the regulator and run the pump power wire back there.
KIKIAggies859
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Are you planning to run a Holley terminator to control the engine and transmission? I would assume they could program for the ZF8, but I know there is off the shelf support for LS+4L80
P.H. Dexippus
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GrapevineAg said:

Yep, definitely not the first person to mistakenly over-torque something. The lessons we learn the hard way are the ones that stick.

I rebuilt a couple of boats in high school with sweat and yard mowing money. First time I took one out was to Lake Livingston for a weekend with friends and hoped to impress a girl. Instead, I over tighten a spark plug on the 70HP Johnson outboard, striping out the threads before ever getting it on the water. Learned my lesson that day.
Eliminatus
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Just posting for the photo updates.

A little more partial towards the 2nd gens myself but ngl, massive crush on all the F bodies ever made.
Corps_Ag12
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Yes, I am also running a 4L60E because it's tried & proven and I won't have to modify the firewall or transmission tunnel to make it fit.
Corps_Ag12
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Finally got the engine buttoned up and mated the torque converter to the transmission and transmission to engine.



Now I need to get the old motor mounts off of the car, install the new shifter kit, then slide everything in.

Still trying to figure out where to mount ECU, whether in the engine bay or in the interior some place. Some people have mentioned glove box, but this car has a cardboard glove box insert. Another thought of mine was under either the driver or passenger seat.
92_Ag
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If you plan to retrofit A/C (e.g. VintageAir) you'll delete the heater blower box and that would be a great candidate position for the ECU and fuel pressure regulator/guage.
Corps_Ag12
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92_Ag said:

If you plan to retrofit A/C (e.g. VintageAir) you'll delete the heater blower box and that would be a great candidate position for the ECU and fuel pressure regulator/guage.


I would love to do that, but I'm trying to be budget conscious but it's turning into "well, while I'm in there…."
Centerpole90
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lol @ budget now amigo.
TSJ
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Corps_Ag12 said:

Another thought of mine was under either the driver or passenger seat.


Can't do that, that's where the chicken nuggets go.
GrapevineAg
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Corps_Ag12 said:

I would love to do that, but I'm trying to be budget conscious but it's turning into "well, while I'm in there…."


lol, "Shipwrights Disease"
92_Ag
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Corps_Ag12 said:

92_Ag said:

If you plan to retrofit A/C (e.g. VintageAir) you'll delete the heater blower box and that would be a great candidate position for the ECU and fuel pressure regulator/guage.


I would love to do that, but I'm trying to be budget conscious but it's turning into "well, while I'm in there…."


I understand all too well. But since you really need to have that passenger front fender off to route the hoses…
Corps_Ag12
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Corps_Ag12
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Centerpole90
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/loudnoisesandwhitetiresmokeincoming
AgFrogfan
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Hey Corps_Ag12! 66' Pontiac Lemans owner here. Keep up the great work!

I have an original 67-68 Firebird Class A Hitch in case you're interested. My father had a '68 Firebird when he attended A&M and this hitch has stayed in the family ever since. From the stamp marks it looks like it was made in Fort Worth, TX which makes sense since we grew up here. I hope the photo links work.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/avvtkyalatgogyiizwooo/AAxaggV2TfrOXEbkfPWD9y0?rlkey=ivuurk0mp6ky52c523rrklxor&st=us3tyvxw&dl=0
Corps_Ag12
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That's pretty retro! I'll let you know once I get closer to it being drivable again.

Speaking of which, I got all the bolts tightened down on the motor mounts and got the transmission crossmember in and tightened.

Started rebuilding the shifter today and of course the original boot on the tunnel is dry rotted to cardboard consistency. Had to order one of those and as it turns out the previous owner didn't know what they were doing and JB Welded the shifter handle down to the shifter and disconnected the selector that rides in the detent bar. Got the detent bar and springs in the proper position so it locks in each gear and ordered a new shifter handle. Shifter and linkage are ready to install once the new boot comes in.

Still debating air conditioning as replacing it would allow me an easy place to mount the ECU and keep most wiring in the engine bay. Buuuutttt that's another $3,000 on top of my budget…

Also found a rear axle that might work if the guy on Craigslist would respond on the rear axle ratio. We shall see. Otherwise may end up getting a Currie built rear end.
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